MrPoopie

I thought about magnets originally too but then ran into some roadblocks trying to figure out placement on the center ring of the Baton. Ultimately I went with a 3D printed Baton and plastidipped the ribbed sections. This gives a nice amount of grip and looks and feels like rubber. Since the 3D parts are relatively light the friction from the Plastidip and leather straps seems to be more than enough to hold everything in place, at least through testing. The holster is in the process of being painted right now. Once it's dry I'll install the straps and we'll know if the test was correct.

Which photos do you have? I have a few from the Sideshow figure and the official promo shot of the guy on the bike. If you're looking straight at the holster the right side overlaps the left side. Is this what you meant. That's my goal, is to add a white snap on each strap and let friction do the work of holding the Baton in place, it seemed to work really well in my test with the painters tape. I'll need to make it tight enough that even if it loosens over time it will still work. The large backing plate on the holster will be hidden behind the belt and secured with Chicago screws. I'm working on getting the belt parts painted and finished over the next couple of days.

Welcome back. I have an Altmann helmet as well but some pretty bruised and battered SC armor. Let us know if you have any questions and be sure to check the CRL as it's been updated a few times since you were last building. While you're at it make sure to check out the Lancer requirements as I'm sure that's the route you're taking.

If you really like the next seal and want to follow a CRL you can make a Jedi Fallen Order Scout. 😁

Baton Holster. I wanted it to be more functional than just a rigid plastic piece. Using leather straps and buttons I should get the look right as well as being more realistic. The double straps will be glued together and the blue tape replaced with a white button snap. Luckily I had my old Baton still hanging around to test with.

More work on belt parts. I made the correct pouches now (Thanks @Hask) and printed up all my front belt parts. The printers have been running full steam lately to get these parts produced. Now I just have to wait for my new stock of PETG to arrive. Got the belt cut too, this rubber stinks, and I may have to hang it outside for a week or two. I've got more than enough materials that I should be able to make extra pouches and belts for some other PTs.

Good eye. It has been noted in the past. We acknowledge that some shots are flipped for the purpose of filming and storytelling and just handle it as that. For the sake of uniformity we only use the non-flipped Biker Scout. It always good to have folks willing to search for the little details.

Congrats. Well earned.

Which slicer are you using that makes those supports?

Thanks. I always get this confused. Easy enough fix since I have a ridiculous amount of vinyl left and I can easy sell off the other small pouches.

Well I guess I should make a build thread too. All the cool kids are doing it. First up are my belt pouches. I made a couple of sets of these this weekend. I've already got my boots, gloves, and pants

That's great and I'll update the post to reflect the change as soon as we can verify the new part.

Alain Rivard Trooper Files Breakdown of the Alain Rivard files. I’ve had these files for quite some time and they are by far the most accurate overall but still not without some inaccuracies. You should no problems with approval with this kit with a few exceptions. Helmet: Suffers from being too narrow like all the rest. Details are quite accurate. Eyes are a bit too wide hiding the tears when viewed from directly in front. Greebles are very good. Shoulder: A bit too thick but details are all good. Strange “hump” on front leading edge. Bicep: Too thick. Forearm: Details seem pretty accurate but my models were missing the left forearm. This may have been fixed at some point but I’m not aware of it. Hand: Very accurate and include the leading edge ovals. Chest: Shape is a bit off and sides near armpits should taper outward just slightly as it goes down towards the waist. Missing the facet on the side areas which leaves a slight triangular overhang with the front facets (difficult to describe). Very thick overall. Missing buckles. Back: Very accurate and includes all the small detail bits on the back box. Has extra raised area near shoulder strap area. This isn’t a problem as it will be covered by the shoulder straps. Slightly thick overall. Back greebles are very accurate. Abs: Mostly accurate. Missing some of the side triangles, front looks very good. Back abs are very accurate as well. Does not include any lower lip area to hide underneath belt which may make it difficult to line everything up properly but is something that can be fixed. Belt: Front center box has an oval shaped recess which should be rectangular. Does not include slight bevel in the sides of the boxes. Missing the cover for the larger back pouch as well as the blaster holster. Baton holster is inaccurate and includes a longer version which would go the bottom length of the baton. This would need to be removed. Baton holster does not look like it one end over the other where it buttons. Thermal Detonator: Main body shape is fairly accurate. “lid” area should be slightly larger than the surrounding body. Endcaps are not accurate. One button should be round. Cod: Lowest part of the cod is a bit too angular and cuts back at too extreme of an angle. Shin: Fairly accurate. Missing oval inset area near buckle. Buckles not included. Boots: Missing toe cover. Ankle and heel covers should be symmetrical. Baton: Fairly accurate. Ends of baton should be tapered and not mushroom shaped.

Here are the shots of the Do3D Forearms. You can see the details are a bit off on the main part of the arm and the "side wings" are missing the proper overall shape as well as the diagonal detailing. The forearms are also missing the oval inlay on the leading edge (not visible in the CRL photo). The above CRL photo isn't an exact replica of the screen-used armor either, just keep that in mind. Here is a better look at the proper forearms as seen on the Sideshow figure.

One step ahead of you.

I've uploaded the full Patrol Trooper armor set. Please go check out the link in the Vendor section.

Here's the breakdown for the Do3D files. I decided it made more sense to finally just put this in a new thread for everyone to easily see. I'll put the breakdown for my files up soon but I'll let another armorer critique it instead of me.

Nikko Patrol Trooper Files So here's what I've seen with the Nikko files. I appreciate that he was aiming for a CRL approvable set of models and wants to make things easier by including detail parts into the models for easier assembly. Doing this makes it more difficult to make a proper build though since strapping, buckles, etc need to be separate parts and made of specific materials for CRL standards. Overall these models are pretty accurate in the broad strokes and with some fixes would be approvable. He based his models on the CRL images. The problem with that is the CRL armor is not particularly accurate to begin with. Since the CRL was created we have many more accurate sources of material and a better idea of small parts and how things look now. Overall not a bad set of models but it would need a decent amount of extra work to make usable. Helmet: Helmet has many inaccuracies not worth listing them all. Honestly this part is probably the least accurate of them all. Shoulder: One edge is curved instead of a sharp angle. Bicep: Seems alright. Forearm: Left Forearm wrong overall shape on edges and details on top wrong, missing front oval in leading edge. Right Forearm wrong overall shape on edges and details on top wrong, missing front oval in leading edge, "Black Ovals" should not be cut all the way through. Hand: Handplate missing oval on leading edge. Chest: Chest has strapping built into models, oval is cut all the way through and should not be, buckle style is wrong. Back: Back is missing several "channel" detail on sides and top, strapping is built into model, recessed boxes are not deep enough and show incorrect details. Abs Front: Sides of ab triangle slightly off. Belt: Front belt box has rounded cut-out instead of rectangle cut-out. All belt boxes missing small channel underneath the tapered edge. Thermal Detonator: Wrong overall shape. Cod: Cod lower angle not sharp enough. Shin: Shin buckle style wrong, missing black oval. Knee wing not sticking out. Boots: Missing toe cover. Ankle cover missing curve on top edge.

Do3D Patrol Trooper Files After taking a close look at the Do3D files I've got a breakdown for everyone. First of all these files should be approvable for a Level 1 certification with proper finishing work. That being said they suffer from several of the same issues that the Nikko files do; lack of proper details, integrated parts for easier printing, wrong proportions. These parts will make it over the bar but just barely and only when the bar is low. For a Level 2 certification it will take considerable custom work to fix detail issues. All I all, still not terrible. Keep in mind I am being super critical to point out as many inconsistencies as possible. If you've got any questions or need some further explanation or details about what I'm talking about just let me know. Helmet: Too narrow, wrong shape at rear, missing trapezoid inserts (side and rear), wrong angle on the ears, no cutouts on nose, gills cut all the way through when they should be closed, under blast shield details missing as well as being a single piece. Blast shield should be a separate part from the helmet all the way down. Aerators details are incorrect and should be a mess material like normal TKs. Mouth area details are a bit weak but still acceptable. Tears are inset and should stick out instead. Work will need to be done to make side tubes and brow tube appear to be rubber-like material. Shoulder: Lower edge shape should be curved, inset vertical lines should be the same width as the diagonal ones. Very thick. Bicep: Slightly incorrect shape on rear “straps”. Should taper a bit more from top to bottom. Too thick. Forearm: Missing leading edge oval. Lack of a few detail edges and some in the wrong position. Outer “wing” is wrong shape and should be more connected to the main body, there shouldn’t be a gap on the leading edge between the wing and body. Hand: Missing leading edge oval. Top ridge is too narrow. Chest: Side straps and buckles should be separate parts. Sides underneath straps should not be a recessed area. Lower center should be a separate facet. The entire lower chest area is made up of facets that flow together. Button configuration is incorrect and lacks proper details. Missing inset black circle on upper chest area near collar. Chest curve is slightly off and a bit too curved which gives the appearance of pushing the whole chest outwards. Basic chest shape should be the same as the Shoretrooper. Collar shape is alright but missing inner lip and doesn’t come down far enough. The collar ends should meet up to the bottom of the neck opening. Top buckles look good and are a separate part along with the proper ribbed shoulder covers, although you’ll want rubber-like shoulder covers instead of printed ones. Back: Overall shape of the main back is good. Missing semi-circle on lower back below back box. Back box is the wrong proportions and should be closer to square than it is. Lower back box inset is the wrong shape. Missing all surface details as well as several on the sides and top of back box. Insert greebles are incorrect. Upper inserts are the wrong shape. The trapezoids that receive the shoulder covers are the wrong shape and missing oval inset details. Abs Front: Front ab section is fairly accurate. Side triangle shapes are good but way too large and should only come around to the side of the waist and not farther. Ribbing on the sides of the abs is correct. Abs Back: Rear overall shape is good. Lower triangle should not be a recessed area but should just be small “canyons” like the shoulders. Upper and lower areas should be on the same plane. The upper area should not be farther out than the lower area. Belt: Belt boxes look correct. Missing the small bezel in the edges right underneath the tapered edge. Not present are the back box cover, blaster holster and baton holster. Thermal Detonator: Wrong in too many ways to discuss. Cod: Overall shape is good. Should be a bit longer on the top edge so that it fits underneath the belt for attachment. Shin: Very inaccurate and most likely not approvable. Main body of the shins is the wrong overall shape and not made up of the right components. Front shin is the correct basic shape but has inaccurate details. Lacking some details and includes some details it shouldn’t have. The knee should only have one “wing” and is missing the lower section. The knee should be in front of the shin parts. Missing buckles and proper straps. This looks like a modified TK shin with extra parts strapped on it. Boots: Bridge cover is too angular and should not be symmetrical. Missing heel and toes covers.

I've decided I should compile the breakdowns of the 3D files I've been able to go over so that i's easier for everyone to see the pros/cons of each model kit. Hopefully this will help folks decide how they want to move ahead as well as possibly let some designers know where they need to adjust or work on things for better accuracy. I'll try to get some pictures up soon to help so examples.

Let me refer you to another post where we were discussing this very thing. Basically the Do3D files have many inaccuracies, most of which wouldn't stop you from a Level 1 certification but the details are usually low bar for sure. I' haven't had a chance to pour over the individual Do3D files as I don't have a copy of them, I can only go off the images that I've seen and a few printed parts as well. If you've got a copy of the files and wouldn't mind sending them over to me I can take a closer look. After analyzing the files I'll delete them, it's just for reference. There's also the issue of the abs being a rigid part. It has been discussed that this is actually a non-rigid (rubber, foam, etc.) part and has some flex to it. Again having a printed ab section won't disqualify you from a certification it's just something to be aware of.

Parts can be scaled just don't go crazy with them and make sure you scale proportionally otherwise certain dimensions will be stretched and no longer look correct. The armor I printed for @MrsPoopie was mostly scaled between 92-95%. The easiest way to do this is either use software such as ArmorSmith or just print out a simple part like the bicep or forearm first and see how it goes. You'll want to look at each part individually, don't just scale the whole set at the same level. We ran into this issue with the belt. An example was having women's hips made it so that the belt was fine at 100% but the chest and arms needed to be smaller. Give me a shout if you have any questions. We're also holding a Virtual Armor Party this Saturday (See Announcements) and you're welcome to join and see some of her armor.

My knee armor doesn't have padding but it's really mangled after years of use and kneeling. I know a couple other troopers who have a bit of foam padding or wear knee pads underneath their flightsuit. Overall I agree with @BikerScout007 and you should try to squat if possible otherwise your knees will get wrecked quickly.

Welcome Melody

Sorry for the confusion. This part isn't missing. It's a 1 1/4" PVC pipe (63.5cm in length) for the main body and 1/2" wooden dowel (40cm in length)) for the part that extends. There is also a hand cut piece of PVC which you can see in the pictures on the link below. This part allows the internal rod to slide freely and then "twist" lock in place when fully extended and when closed. I never found a good way to spring load the whole assembly. To make this locking mechanism work I used 2 flush head hex screws (bottom link) which are screwed in just the right amount to allow the shaft to slide in and out but also just catch the locking mechanism. You can see the hex screws next to the PVC locking mechanism. Hope that helps. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ACtCXcPyzADEwZKj7 https://www.grainger.com/product/2EVN3?gclid=CjwKCAjw26H3BRB2EiwAy32zhf03vLG6SZOd9648-Hi-MskjkYX-cEf6sLkdDHM-B9EroqpyoT45kBoCVEEQAvD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=CjwKCAjw26H3BRB2EiwAy32zhf03vLG6SZOd9648-Hi-MskjkYX-cEf6sLkdDHM-B9EroqpyoT45kBoCVEEQAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!281698275774!!!g!471564520201!