MrPoopie

Nikko Patrol Trooper Files So here's what I've seen with the Nikko files. I appreciate that he was aiming for a CRL approvable set of models and wants to make things easier by including detail parts into the models for easier assembly. Doing this makes it more difficult to make a proper build though since strapping, buckles, etc need to be separate parts and made of specific materials for CRL standards. Overall these models are pretty accurate in the broad strokes and with some fixes would be approvable. He based his models on the CRL images. The problem with that is the CRL armor is not particularly accurate to begin with. Since the CRL was created we have many more accurate sources of material and a better idea of small parts and how things look now. Overall not a bad set of models but it would need a decent amount of extra work to make usable. Helmet: Helmet has many inaccuracies not worth listing them all. Honestly this part is probably the least accurate of them all. Shoulder: One edge is curved instead of a sharp angle. Bicep: Seems alright. Forearm: Left Forearm wrong overall shape on edges and details on top wrong, missing front oval in leading edge. Right Forearm wrong overall shape on edges and details on top wrong, missing front oval in leading edge, "Black Ovals" should not be cut all the way through. Hand: Handplate missing oval on leading edge. Chest: Chest has strapping built into models, oval is cut all the way through and should not be, buckle style is wrong. Back: Back is missing several "channel" detail on sides and top, strapping is built into model, recessed boxes are not deep enough and show incorrect details. Abs Front: Sides of ab triangle slightly off. Belt: Front belt box has rounded cut-out instead of rectangle cut-out. All belt boxes missing small channel underneath the tapered edge. Thermal Detonator: Wrong overall shape. Cod: Cod lower angle not sharp enough. Shin: Shin buckle style wrong, missing black oval. Knee wing not sticking out. Boots: Missing toe cover. Ankle cover missing curve on top edge.

Do3D Patrol Trooper Files After taking a close look at the Do3D files I've got a breakdown for everyone. First of all these files should be approvable for a Level 1 certification with proper finishing work. That being said they suffer from several of the same issues that the Nikko files do; lack of proper details, integrated parts for easier printing, wrong proportions. These parts will make it over the bar but just barely and only when the bar is low. For a Level 2 certification it will take considerable custom work to fix detail issues. All I all, still not terrible. Keep in mind I am being super critical to point out as many inconsistencies as possible. If you've got any questions or need some further explanation or details about what I'm talking about just let me know. Helmet: Too narrow, wrong shape at rear, missing trapezoid inserts (side and rear), wrong angle on the ears, no cutouts on nose, gills cut all the way through when they should be closed, under blast shield details missing as well as being a single piece. Blast shield should be a separate part from the helmet all the way down. Aerators details are incorrect and should be a mess material like normal TKs. Mouth area details are a bit weak but still acceptable. Tears are inset and should stick out instead. Work will need to be done to make side tubes and brow tube appear to be rubber-like material. Shoulder: Lower edge shape should be curved, inset vertical lines should be the same width as the diagonal ones. Very thick. Bicep: Slightly incorrect shape on rear “straps”. Should taper a bit more from top to bottom. Too thick. Forearm: Missing leading edge oval. Lack of a few detail edges and some in the wrong position. Outer “wing” is wrong shape and should be more connected to the main body, there shouldn’t be a gap on the leading edge between the wing and body. Hand: Missing leading edge oval. Top ridge is too narrow. Chest: Side straps and buckles should be separate parts. Sides underneath straps should not be a recessed area. Lower center should be a separate facet. The entire lower chest area is made up of facets that flow together. Button configuration is incorrect and lacks proper details. Missing inset black circle on upper chest area near collar. Chest curve is slightly off and a bit too curved which gives the appearance of pushing the whole chest outwards. Basic chest shape should be the same as the Shoretrooper. Collar shape is alright but missing inner lip and doesn’t come down far enough. The collar ends should meet up to the bottom of the neck opening. Top buckles look good and are a separate part along with the proper ribbed shoulder covers, although you’ll want rubber-like shoulder covers instead of printed ones. Back: Overall shape of the main back is good. Missing semi-circle on lower back below back box. Back box is the wrong proportions and should be closer to square than it is. Lower back box inset is the wrong shape. Missing all surface details as well as several on the sides and top of back box. Insert greebles are incorrect. Upper inserts are the wrong shape. The trapezoids that receive the shoulder covers are the wrong shape and missing oval inset details. Abs Front: Front ab section is fairly accurate. Side triangle shapes are good but way too large and should only come around to the side of the waist and not farther. Ribbing on the sides of the abs is correct. Abs Back: Rear overall shape is good. Lower triangle should not be a recessed area but should just be small “canyons” like the shoulders. Upper and lower areas should be on the same plane. The upper area should not be farther out than the lower area. Belt: Belt boxes look correct. Missing the small bezel in the edges right underneath the tapered edge. Not present are the back box cover, blaster holster and baton holster. Thermal Detonator: Wrong in too many ways to discuss. Cod: Overall shape is good. Should be a bit longer on the top edge so that it fits underneath the belt for attachment. Shin: Very inaccurate and most likely not approvable. Main body of the shins is the wrong overall shape and not made up of the right components. Front shin is the correct basic shape but has inaccurate details. Lacking some details and includes some details it shouldn’t have. The knee should only have one “wing” and is missing the lower section. The knee should be in front of the shin parts. Missing buckles and proper straps. This looks like a modified TK shin with extra parts strapped on it. Boots: Bridge cover is too angular and should not be symmetrical. Missing heel and toes covers.

I've decided I should compile the breakdowns of the 3D files I've been able to go over so that i's easier for everyone to see the pros/cons of each model kit. Hopefully this will help folks decide how they want to move ahead as well as possibly let some designers know where they need to adjust or work on things for better accuracy. I'll try to get some pictures up soon to help so examples.

Let me refer you to another post where we were discussing this very thing. Basically the Do3D files have many inaccuracies, most of which wouldn't stop you from a Level 1 certification but the details are usually low bar for sure. I' haven't had a chance to pour over the individual Do3D files as I don't have a copy of them, I can only go off the images that I've seen and a few printed parts as well. If you've got a copy of the files and wouldn't mind sending them over to me I can take a closer look. After analyzing the files I'll delete them, it's just for reference. There's also the issue of the abs being a rigid part. It has been discussed that this is actually a non-rigid (rubber, foam, etc.) part and has some flex to it. Again having a printed ab section won't disqualify you from a certification it's just something to be aware of.

Parts can be scaled just don't go crazy with them and make sure you scale proportionally otherwise certain dimensions will be stretched and no longer look correct. The armor I printed for @MrsPoopie was mostly scaled between 92-95%. The easiest way to do this is either use software such as ArmorSmith or just print out a simple part like the bicep or forearm first and see how it goes. You'll want to look at each part individually, don't just scale the whole set at the same level. We ran into this issue with the belt. An example was having women's hips made it so that the belt was fine at 100% but the chest and arms needed to be smaller. Give me a shout if you have any questions. We're also holding a Virtual Armor Party this Saturday (See Announcements) and you're welcome to join and see some of her armor.

My knee armor doesn't have padding but it's really mangled after years of use and kneeling. I know a couple other troopers who have a bit of foam padding or wear knee pads underneath their flightsuit. Overall I agree with @BikerScout007 and you should try to squat if possible otherwise your knees will get wrecked quickly.

Welcome Melody

Sorry for the confusion. This part isn't missing. It's a 1 1/4" PVC pipe (63.5cm in length) for the main body and 1/2" wooden dowel (40cm in length)) for the part that extends. There is also a hand cut piece of PVC which you can see in the pictures on the link below. This part allows the internal rod to slide freely and then "twist" lock in place when fully extended and when closed. I never found a good way to spring load the whole assembly. To make this locking mechanism work I used 2 flush head hex screws (bottom link) which are screwed in just the right amount to allow the shaft to slide in and out but also just catch the locking mechanism. You can see the hex screws next to the PVC locking mechanism. Hope that helps. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ACtCXcPyzADEwZKj7 https://www.grainger.com/product/2EVN3?gclid=CjwKCAjw26H3BRB2EiwAy32zhf03vLG6SZOd9648-Hi-MskjkYX-cEf6sLkdDHM-B9EroqpyoT45kBoCVEEQAvD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=CjwKCAjw26H3BRB2EiwAy32zhf03vLG6SZOd9648-Hi-MskjkYX-cEf6sLkdDHM-B9EroqpyoT45kBoCVEEQAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!281698275774!!!g!471564520201!

This is direct from the CRL: Helmet Gloss white or semi-gloss and may be lightly weathered. Lens is black in color and obscures wearer's eyes Decals are screen accurate Snout greeblie is medium gray and the aerator portion is painted black Inner edge of snout recess is black Bolts are either flat or have concave centers Helmet is true to the shape of original screen accurate helmet. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Chin cup is optional. No mesh material mounted in the ears. Area behind ears inside the helmet is blacked out, either with paint or gaffer tape Snout greeblie is screen-accurate: it is an elongated plate with a rounded top, with a detail modeled after a Yamaha XS1100LG model motorcycle engine and sink aerator affixed to the bottom half. “Sticker” snouts are not acceptable. Snout recess on helmet is painted black. Stickers are not acceptable. Helmet bolts are Gray 3M bolts or other replicas with concave centers. (Visible bolt head diameter of 22mm). Optional: No visible seams on the dome. For the 'Back and Cap' style bucket constructions, the join around the top of the dome is as flush as possible. Fill this seam so it is not visible. The screen used helmets did not have a join in this area due to a different construction method I can't endorse any particular vendor but Trooperbay is quick and easy.

Nice work it looks good. If you're going for approval and not just display you'll need to a few adjustments. The forehead ovals will need to be filled in and decals/stickers used in place. Same thing goes for the nostril vents. The trapezoids on the back of the head will also need to have the detail parts removed and stickers used instead. I like the extra detail parts that make it looks more realistic and in line with what a functioning helmet would be like but since the original helmets were petty lo-tech certain details need to remain the same. Let us know if you have questions about which parts need to be adjusted and we can get you on your way. Overall very good work.

If possible post some pics when you get a chance.

It's coming together and looking good.

Steady and accurate is much better than fast and half-assed.

Congrats. Great job.

Congrats good sir.

Those 3D files were created by me so it was super easy to remove the indents. If you check the link below there's a new file uploaded for "Tank Topper No Indents" in the "Back" folder.

Boots: are a bit too dark but at the very least should be one color not two-toned. Chest & Back: Size is too small and I would also suggest about an 8-10% increase. The chest should just cover the cummerbund all the way around. A good rule of thumb is that the cummerbund should fit slightly underneath the armor but should not be visible under the side straps. It's hard to see what the strap material is made out of so I can't comment on that. Flightsuit: Agree with the changes that the GML and @Retrofire stated. Belt & Detonator: Same as above about the straps. The tubing on the detonator is a tad too long on each side. Tank Topper & Greeblie: This one I have mixed feelings about. The indented circle should be acceptable as many other kits have this same feature including the SC kit. The indent on the middle "fin" is also a feature that has been present on other kits. Not sure why this is getting called out. Cod: Same as above. It's not a very difficult fix to pull in the sides of the cod to make it a tad thinner as well as slightly stiffer. If you need access to the 3D files again, just PM me and I'll send you the link. You should be able to scale them up. You've done lots of great work and you're close to the finish line so keep working and make the adjustments and you'll soon be very happy with your final product.

Well if you feel like starting one or not, we're here to help. No judgement for language barriers, I'm sure you're perfectly fine.

If your tube is slightly smaller you might be able to print a sleeve to go between the printed parts and the tube or you could use a layer or two of shrink tubing. Just some ideas. Start a WIP page so we can watch your progress.

The main body is a 1 1/4" PVC pipe which is cut to 25" (63.5cm). The 1/2" wooden dowel for the cattle prod section is 15 3/4" (40cm).

Congrats, it's tough work.

Thanks. It's one of my goals to be able to model up the Kashy for people to make their own, since finding armor can be a bit difficult at times. I guess I'll just slowly do parts one at a time.

Is this a personal kit or for production?

Maybe Pilot Bay. Shannon is pretty good with custom work. Not sure how busy she is.