MrPoopie

I can tell you these would not be acceptable. There are many inconsistencies and errors that wouldn't be worth fixing in post-print.

If anyone has the Do3D files and can send them to me I can make a more detailed comparison. Don't worry I won't pprint, share or reproduce them in any way, I just want them so I can load them up and compare.

I'll put up a full breakdown of the Nikko files tomorrow (hopefully). It'll say which parts are wrong and which would still be acceptable even with inaccuracies. If I've got time I'll list the Rivard files as well.

That's true. Doing a quick once over of NIkko's file there are many inaccuracy just like the Do#D files. The Alain Rivard files are the most accurate so far (besides Armory Shop) but there are still some small things wrong with the Rivard files. These aren't things that would keep you from getting approved at "Basic" level but they aren't perfect. The NIkko files have many things that would be close to approvable and would be up to the eyes making the approval. Small details add up when you're looking at a whole set of armor and one or two things will slide by and be fine but little things wrong with every piece of armor will get noticed. Honestly a mix of the Rivard files with the NIkko chest and Back and you'd be fine. AT this stage you'll have to mix and match to get the best accuracy when it come sto 3D files. *Not self promotion: I have a set that are very accurate but I haven't released them yet, there's still an issue with the chest armor that I'm not happy with but the rest is good to go. I plan on putting them out very soon, I just need t o finish up the Chest adjustment.

Basically I'll go through the models in 3D to make sure details, angles, proportions, etc. Line up with the CRL. Images are fine but with 3D models in hand I can take measurements as well as see things from all angles to make an assessment. It shouldn't take very long since I'm very familiar with the intricacies of this armor having modeled almost an entire set myself previously. Basically I'll go through the models in 3D to make sure details, angles, proportions, etc. Line up with the CRL. Images are fine but with 3D models in hand I can take measurements as well as see things from all angles to make an assessment. It shouldn't take very long since I'm very familiar with the intricacies of this armor having modeled almost an entire set myself previously.

I have the Nikko files and I'm in the process of going over the details. It's more accurate than the Do3D files for sure as well as the Alain Ricard files. I'll post back here shortly when I have a more comprehensive answer.

@heartstopper85 your faulds are done. PM your address and I'll get them sent out.

The last of my fabric arrives today so I should be able to get the faulds made today or tomorrow.

Submission photos. https://photos.app.goo.gl/WLcn4EChJx2Vg7Fw5

Dimensions

I'll send you the dimensions shortly.

suspenders under the armor if it starts to sag with any weight i the pouches.

Cool. I'll include the velcro on the faulds as well as the velcro that you'll need to attach to the belt yourself.

If these are made with velcro on the tops will you be able to attach the velcro to the belt or did you have another method in mind for attachment?

I'll cut a piece of fabric and see if it looks right before I start cutting a bunch of parts and putting it all together.

After doing some calculations assuming the toy is 6" it looks like the faulds are just a hair over 11" long. I'll probably add another 2 inches to the top so that it can be attached to the belt so 13" in total in height. Does that sound right to everyone?

Agreed. I think they might still need to come up another 1.5" from where I had them sitting. Does the belt sit roughly where the Scout belts sits near the waist not hips?

Here you go. I think the width is probably pretty close the height is wrong and I had to hike it up to a reasonable place. Obviously we'll need to leave some extra material on top so that they can be attached to the belt somehow (velcro, straps, a feed through section for the belt). It all depends on how the belt is put together but velcro is probably the best solution. The pouch is a regulation size Scout pouch for comparison. I'm also wearing much tighter pants than the costume pants would be. For reference I'm 5'10" and waist is 32". [/url

I'll try them on with my Scout belt today. That should give a decent idea of size along with something to represent the pouch as well.

I should have all my supplies by the end of the week. Do we have a standard size yet for the faulds?

How do they size up on your shin (roughly)?

That should be alright but we'll need to figure out sizing and I have to get supplies which is a little difficult right now. Totally doable though.

Here are the links to the MT-Spats. The dimensions seem off though. If someone who has boots can print one to see if they're correct it would help. I can adjust the model if it's wrong. If printed in one piece this should just be able to slide over the boot without any issues. MT-Spat_Left MT-Spat_Right My suggestion would be to put some velcro on the inside of the spats (soft side) and velcro sewn at the bottoms of the gaiters (rough side) so everything stays in place nicely.

Most ankles are roughly the same size so there shouldn't be too much variation in the size. If it's ABS you can cut them to size since it'll most likely be 2 pieces. It it's 3D printed you'll just need to scale accordingly.

Thanks. I'll adjust and upload this shortly.