MrPoopie

I did but I'm not very satisfied with it. I used some decent magnets on the underside of the parts as well as a set on the inside of the glove. This might work better if you have gloves that have the liner removed as the magnets won't be going through so much fabric. I'm trying to order another pair of WampWear gloves right now but they're currently out of stock in my size. It works for pictures but I wouldn't want to troop with just the magnets as they currently are.

Thanks. To bad I still need to have a real job.

Just start from scratch with the exception of the helmet.

As well as biceps (No strap cutout) and a new tank topper.

Build details for my Jedi:Fallen Order Scout

If you'e interested in building a JFO Scout I have all the "extra" files available for download. This does not include the original Biker Scout armor set as you can source that elsewhere from a vendor or from 3D files. * As always, these files are for personal use only and not to be reproduced, distributed, sold, modified or used for an commercial endeavours. Please be respectful. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/j0rvqxryxx4gsbs/AABf379kVd6tGghC6h5NaqPDa?dl=0

Agreed. The Rivard helmet is pretty accurate but suffers from the same issues as the ArmoryShop helmet. It gets the details right but the overall proportions and shape are bit to square and squished. Neither of these are to the point that they don't look good are unacceptable just not perfect.

So here's what I've seen with the Nikko files. I appreciate that he was aiming for a CRL approvalable set of models and wants to make things easier by including detail parts into the models for easier assembly. Doing this makes it more difficult to make a proper build though since strapping, buckles, etc need to be separate parts and made of specific materials for CRL standards. Overall these models are pretty accurate in the broad strokes and with some fixes would be approvable. He based his models on the CRL images. The problem with that is the CRL armor is not particularly accurate to begin with. Since the CRL was created we have many more accurate sources of material and a better idea of small parts and how things look now. Overall not a bad set of models but it would need a decent amount of extra work to make usable. - Sides of ab triangle slightly off -Cod lower angle not sharp enough - Knee wing not sticking out - Shin buckle style wrong, missing black oval - Missing toe cover - Ankle cover missing curve on top edge - Left Forearm wrong overall shape on edges and details on top wrong, missing front oval in leading edge - Right Forearm wrong overall shape on edges and details on top wrong, missing front oval in leading edge, "Black Ovals" should not be cut all the way through. - Handplate missing oval on leading edge - Shoulder one edge is curved instead of a sharp angle - Front belt box has rounded cut-out instead of rectangle cut-out - All belt boxes missing small channel underneath the tapered edge - TD is wrong overall shape - Chest has strapping built into models, oval is cut all the way through and should not be, buckle style is wrong - Back is missing several "channel" detail on sides and top, strapping is built into model, recessed boxes are not deep enough and show incorrect details - Helmet has many inaccuracies not worth listing them all. Honestly this part is probably the least accurate of them all

I can tell you these would not be acceptable. There are many inconsistencies and errors that wouldn't be worth fixing in post-print.

If anyone has the Do3D files and can send them to me I can make a more detailed comparison. Don't worry I won't pprint, share or reproduce them in any way, I just want them so I can load them up and compare.

I'll put up a full breakdown of the Nikko files tomorrow (hopefully). It'll say which parts are wrong and which would still be acceptable even with inaccuracies. If I've got time I'll list the Rivard files as well.

That's true. Doing a quick once over of NIkko's file there are many inaccuracy just like the Do#D files. The Alain Rivard files are the most accurate so far (besides Armory Shop) but there are still some small things wrong with the Rivard files. These aren't things that would keep you from getting approved at "Basic" level but they aren't perfect. The NIkko files have many things that would be close to approvable and would be up to the eyes making the approval. Small details add up when you're looking at a whole set of armor and one or two things will slide by and be fine but little things wrong with every piece of armor will get noticed. Honestly a mix of the Rivard files with the NIkko chest and Back and you'd be fine. AT this stage you'll have to mix and match to get the best accuracy when it come sto 3D files. *Not self promotion: I have a set that are very accurate but I haven't released them yet, there's still an issue with the chest armor that I'm not happy with but the rest is good to go. I plan on putting them out very soon, I just need t o finish up the Chest adjustment.

Basically I'll go through the models in 3D to make sure details, angles, proportions, etc. Line up with the CRL. Images are fine but with 3D models in hand I can take measurements as well as see things from all angles to make an assessment. It shouldn't take very long since I'm very familiar with the intricacies of this armor having modeled almost an entire set myself previously. Basically I'll go through the models in 3D to make sure details, angles, proportions, etc. Line up with the CRL. Images are fine but with 3D models in hand I can take measurements as well as see things from all angles to make an assessment. It shouldn't take very long since I'm very familiar with the intricacies of this armor having modeled almost an entire set myself previously.

I have the Nikko files and I'm in the process of going over the details. It's more accurate than the Do3D files for sure as well as the Alain Ricard files. I'll post back here shortly when I have a more comprehensive answer.

@heartstopper85 your faulds are done. PM your address and I'll get them sent out.

The last of my fabric arrives today so I should be able to get the faulds made today or tomorrow.

Submission photos. https://photos.app.goo.gl/WLcn4EChJx2Vg7Fw5

Dimensions

I'll send you the dimensions shortly.

suspenders under the armor if it starts to sag with any weight i the pouches.

Cool. I'll include the velcro on the faulds as well as the velcro that you'll need to attach to the belt yourself.

If these are made with velcro on the tops will you be able to attach the velcro to the belt or did you have another method in mind for attachment?

I'll cut a piece of fabric and see if it looks right before I start cutting a bunch of parts and putting it all together.

After doing some calculations assuming the toy is 6" it looks like the faulds are just a hair over 11" long. I'll probably add another 2 inches to the top so that it can be attached to the belt so 13" in total in height. Does that sound right to everyone?

Agreed. I think they might still need to come up another 1.5" from where I had them sitting. Does the belt sit roughly where the Scout belts sits near the waist not hips?