Retrofire

@Minimo @KOtrooper @BikerScout007 Can you help answer this question regarding Sean Fields Shoretrooper lid?

That's starting to really look good. If you need to highlight the seams on the soft good more you can always use fullers earth blends that the sandy's use in the MEPD. @Chopper has a lot of experience using that for his sandy. Keep it going and looking forward to seeing this go to completion.

Great work David! It's really starting to come together. Your pouches look a bit boxy but once you get them stained they should flatten out some. Should you need any pointers on weathering your gear check out TKZombie's thread. You're doing great and keep up the excellent work!

Well done and that looks much better!

As Chopper mentioned that looks like it'll be ok for basic approval. Might want to run it by your OLG GML just to be sure they are ok with it.

Congrats Pathfinder! Well done!

Well done Victoria. I did the same thing in my drop boxes too so I could adjust them if needed. Good thinking!

Hi Dean. I have to agree with Chopper. I get wanting to go without laces but that heel is much too high even for basic. I'm not sure a GML would be ok with that. Based on the CRL it's just a bit too much.

Cheers to another year of helping folks and making this det the best in the whole five-oh-first! Thanks for the great leadership and time you spend making this a great place for folks to come to be encouraged, welcome and inspired!

Yes. You can use ROTJ armor as well but please make sure that you pay attention to the remnant CRL as there are changes to the strapping and soft armor. Most folks use the SC but there are others you can look at in the vendor listing.

Yes. Apart from the weathering you can use a ROTJ helmet for the remnant scout.

Nothing wrong with that. Once you get the flightsuit in then you can start to work on the fitment a bit more. Looking good so far. Keep up the great work!

Congrats Pathfinder!

Congrats Pathfinder!

Congrats Pathfinder! You did an outstanding job on this and should be proud!

Congrats Pathfinder and well done!

That's correct Dennis. Hahahaha I'm a dork! Got you and Dart mixed up there. Aradun is right though Rusty we're here for you so don't hesitate to reach out should you need anything.

Congrats Pathfinder! Well done!!

Hi Rusty! You can start working on various parts of the armor like your forearms, biceps, belt, etc. I believe what @Aradun is talking about are the bridge straps where your back and chest armor meet over your shoulders. You'll want to have your softgoods, vest & flightsuit, on before you do any trimming there to ensure a good fit. The rest you can certainly work on. The only other part that you might want to wait on a final fitting are the shoulder bells. Those will need to be trimmed based on where your vest sleeves fall.

Best of luck Nate! You're looking good!

Hi Fibo! The weathering on the helmet looks great the only problem I'm seeing with it is that the details above the snout and forehead are indented into the helmet. We've seen these before on 3-D printed helmets and problem is that they need to be decals and not printed into the faceplate. For the helmet the CRL states that "Decals are screen accurate." Those areas will need to be filled in and decals applied in order for your helmet to be approvable. It's an easy fix to make and you can find decals from the vendor list here: You've done a fantastic job on this armor and you should be proud. This is a minor fix and you shouldn't have any issues taking care of it.

If you can close the gap cleanly then go for it but it's not crucial for approval. All the ROTJ tanks showed flaws in one area or another. For the SC you want the tank to sit as flush as possible but again it doesn't have to be "exactly" flush to the end of the back armor hump. I would recommend against putting a rivet through both pieces as you want the rivet to be in the bottom, center of the tank as shown in this picture. Before you glue the end of the tank to the back armor make sure attach a "blind" rivet in this area. When you place the rivet make sure to pre drill the hole and add a backing washer to keep the plastic from cracking.

Best of luck Kevin! You've done a great job!

Hi Stefan! You're already getting excellent advice the only thing I can add is if you do choose to sew your boots would be to get denim needles which have a thicker shank than a standard needle for your machine. Here's a link to see what they look like. You'll want to make sure they are compatible to your machine. https://smile.amazon.com/Singer-75467-Sewing-Machine-Needles/dp/B004IHNDSW/ref=sr_1_5?crid=24DD2HJAC6FDB&keywords=denim%2Bsewing%2Bneedles%2Bfor%2Bsewing%2Bmachine&qid=1674412062&sprefix=denim%2Bsewing%2Bneedles%2Caps%2C832&sr=8-5&th=1 Best to you and best of luck with your build!

Those are looking fine Kevin! Keep up the great work and you'll be submitting before you know it!