kayelbe

All good suggestions. I'm hoping the "1" snout Lou says he has reserved was mine, since he told me on 1/31 that he would send me an invoice and ship one out. But, if I don't hear from him about it soon, I will have to look elsewhere. Anyone know of a .stl file for one? Coincidentally, I am putting together the printer I've had in the garage for 9 months and what better project for a first print! I've seen one on thingiverse, but it doesn't look very accurate.

It's for my Altman. Had a little "malfunction", but it's all locked down now. Unfortunately, I chipped the aerator portion bad enough i want to replace the whole thing.

Didn't realize he had one, LOL. I just requested to join the group.

DVH hasn't been on in almost 2 weeks since PM'ing me that he was sending an invoice for one of his greeblies. Is there another reliable source for a Lancer-approved snout? Thanks

A quick search: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=16223&hl=clips&fromsearch=1

I hope the rest of the kit is better; if it's anything like the helmet, I'm hoping you didn't seal the deal yet. As a GML, I would also not approve this helmet. There's just way too much wrong with it.

None have been presented here.

It looks better on the backside, but as a GML, I wouldn't reject an app for it.

Just saw this. I abandoned doing the magnets the way Panda did, because I couldn't seem to get the magnets inside the tube and lined up with the holes AND rivet them in. This is a great idea, and MUCH simpler! Going to steal this one for sure!

Great minds think alike!

It's in there, but it's buried. - The TD box must be secured by one single black tie wrap, to the tubing as seen above. The TD box and tubing is then secured to the belt however a trooper wishes, the main belt is then closed/secured using a velcro over lap much like a TK, with two black twin armed brackets holding each end of the tube to the belt (close to see whats on screen). With a 50mm (2") white cotton or nylon belt secured each end of the hard belt with a single silver rivet. Blinking lights or LED's on the belt canister box are not acceptable.

Here's where I posted a link. Highly recommend one of these! http://forum.bikersc...ndpost&p=144330 Edit: Geez, I had to do a search to find my post, and just realized it's in this thread on the first page!

Have you tried my helmet, Patrick? If not, next troop I'll be sure to let you try it on. It's an Altmann.

Yep, primer gray here. Originally, I had sprayed them Testors Light Gull Gray, which I thought looked good. That is, until I swapped out the decals. Then it looked too light.

Take a coin with the right radius and trace it out. I used an Xacto and score n snapped it. A little sand paper to finish it off.

FWIW, I've only just heard of this site today, and the guy who mentioned do3d printed some stuff that looked pretty good.

I'm also a nitpicky bastard, but here's my 2 cents: Like the others said, I would prefer more "poof" in the cummerbund and cod piece. I used 1/2 inch open cell foam in mine. The pouches are fine shape-wise, but the flaps need to be "triangular". The bottom of the flap approximately half the width and the "point" parts on the inside-side. The riding patches are probably okay. I like them better when they curve into the cod piece curve. It brings the look together that way. In other words, they should come up higher on the thighs. However, you can't just move the ones you have, because they are just about perfect at the bottom (about 2 fingers above where the knee armor would sit). The boots *may* be too tall. It's easier to size them after you have the knee armor in place. The mud flap is either too small, off center, or a combination of both. It could just be the angle of the pic. Keep working, you'll get it!

If you haven't already, get in touch with your local garrison. While this is the one-stop shop for information on all things Pathfinder, you can get a lot more "hands-on" help with your local chapter. Click Here for a list.

Every costume in the 501st has at least one level, often referred to as "Basic Approval". Basic, despite the name, ensures accuracy beyond just buying a costume. Many, but not all, costumes also have levels of accuracy beyond Basic. For example, for Biker Scouts, Level Two is called "Lancer". Approval beyond Basic is completely optional. For specific costume requirements, refer to the Costume Reference Library (CRL) for that costume. Each CRL entry will have Black, Blue, and Red text, as applicable; these denote Basic, Level 2, and Level 3 requirements.

You could try to salvage it (no big deal if it doesn't work--you are prepared to replace, anyway). Get a heat gun and a block of wood trimmed to the ideal shape. Heat it up and press the wood form in where you want to reshape it. Worth a shot.

Right where we left it... http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9011&view=findpost&p=72653

Hmmm. I wouldn't see why they wouldn't work. But I have a question for you: What do you have in your helmet to make it fit? I'd be willing to bet you are using military style foam pads. I tried that and because of their shape/size and where I had to put them they were indeed ear muffs. Or...I'm wondering if you haven't cut out the ear holes. I switched the pads for a hard hat suspension that I hot glued in. I can hear just fine in mine.

Which ones are your referring to?

I must have missed the change in the shoulder bell strap size...what size is it? How did you finish the loop?

A lot of people use Pandatrooper's method (I did). http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9781&view=findpost&p=82251