kayelbe

A hard hat suspension rig will not affect any of those things anymore than foam would. Likely, foam and even MICH pads would be more intrusive, since you have to place them everywhere in order to keep your helmet from bobbling.

I’ve put together a few scouts and I always size and located the bund to sit on top of the belt and end up about the middle of the side straps. That keeps it from looking like the remnant scouts with the gap between armor and bund.

@Dart can probably get it to you cheaper but let me know. FYI it will probably take longer from the states, cuz that was the very lowest and probably slowest rate I sent you.

The reason I went for the clip over Velcro is I wasn’t very nimble enough to fix the hook and loop squarely. With the clip as long as it clicked it was secure and straight.

I came here to say the same thing. I don’t notice it at all. Like any method you have to make sure you measure the strap and take into account how tight it has to be.

The base disc is 28mm. The tube is about 11/32 od. The id is the same as the visor peg. I must have mis-measured so the tube doesn’t fit the brass tube I bought. I did drill the helmet out to fit the brass which happens to be just about right for the tube. I don’t expect much wear so I’m gonna forgo the brass bushing for now.

Here's a pic of the printed pieces. I haven't put them in permanently yet, but preliminary testing proved the concept will work in keeping the opening limited as far as I want it to.

It does seem a little over-engineered, lol. I took your earlier design and modeled a VERY basic version in TinkerCAD that I then printed. Because of shrinkage or print settings (I’m a relative noob to 3D modeling/printing) it wouldn’t work with brass tubing. But, it will work for it’s intended purpose. Even with my Altman bucket I rarely left it open. I just want something to keep it from opening too far as we discussed. I’ll add a pic later for those interested.

If you create and share the file I’ll be happy to print it and be the Guinea pig.

Yeah i discovered the issue after my first helmet was done. (Had to make another because I ruined the paint job on the first to the point it wasn’t salvageable). I can confirm the pegs are not super strong. My first helmet need a new visor as I snapped one off during assembly. After that I printed the visor in two pieces and assembled it on the helmet. Made finishing a pain but it didn’t snap a peg.

I’m building this same helmet and found the same issue with the visor digging in and denting the main helmet. Interested in what solutions could be offered. For now I just try not to open it all the way but obviously mistakes happen.

That’s the thing. My first go-round I just did a fabric loop that could slide back and forth. That’s the reason it didn’t stay in place. i recommend doing it the “lancer” way (I can’t remember where I saw it but I’m sure you’ve seen the thread). You just don’t have to keep it at the 1inch since you aren’t going lancer. also you don’t have to put the zip (or t-strap) right in the middle, which I think forces the way you do the bridge cover.

I was skeptical at first but the 1 inch I used was more than enough. The trick is how you attach it. On my old scout I used more like 1-3/4 bridge covers and the plastic was always flopping out from underneath. I had a lousy attachment method. This time around I went with the max 1-inch (cuz I was skeptical), but followed the lancer tutorial and it works and looks so much better!

Cotton duck and canvas are basically the same thing.

Did you add any adhesive to those sticky back zip anchors? In my experience with my first scout they came off after a few troops so I added a dab of good epoxy. With my new set I used the “screw on” anchor with epoxy (no screws, obviously).

I recently bought a Cucblack vest. They really nail down the measurements (after payment). I think he took the hint in shipping as fedex was the only option when I ordered.

Dengar’s rifle is based on an MG42, I believe

I was just pointing it out is all. I looked at the scoutopedia and your first one (CTPG?) is closer to the screen used (although the top looks too long to me). Here's a comparison between the MrPoopie and an older generation SC: I circled the detail that originally caught my eye. It has been a while since I saw my old SC that I didn't realize the difference until I saw your first post. I don't know about you, but I was planning to use it to get back in the Lancer ranks. I browsed a bunch of Lancer threads and it seems that biceps have been submitted with the "closed" tee occasionally. Maybe the Lancer Approval guys can chime in (if you're interested)?

Are those the latest files from @MrPoopie? Those biceps look different and I think the forearms do as well. Here's mine that I'm working on at the moment:

That piece looks a little different than the file I used for mine (MrPoopie). Mine 'at rest' are wide also, but so are the ones I have from SC. With the elastic it should bend in a bit and conform with your arm. If your piece isn't flexible it could be an issue.

The 'raglan' sleeve should go up to the collar hem, so yeah maybe a 1/2 inch but probably not as much as two inches.

Looks good! I’m reapplying soon with the same 3D printed files you have used. Hope I can get as smooth a finish as you seem to have achieved!

Ok. That’s what I figured. My original vest was sewn from the start as a raglan and I’m doing my new one that way also.

I've noticed while going through various WIP threads that a lot of recent builds are adding a "seam" on the sleeves of the flak vest. It almost looks like where a normal shoulder seam would be--like the vest was made like a t-shirt but then the raglan look was added on. (from Hoda's Lancer App): I don't see a mention of this in the CRL, but want to make sure it's not a requirement for Level 1 (or 2) before I start sewing my new one. It's not a detail I ever noticed before, and on my previous Lancer approved build I didn't include that seam.

If you have a soldering iron that is the simplest and easiest way. Makes the hole and ‘cauterized’ it at the same time.