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kayelbe

501st Pathfinder
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Everything posted by kayelbe

  1. Got mine yesterday! As you pointed out, there's a HUGE difference in fit/comfort between them and WW. These new ones are lighter, thinner, and just feel better. Also, thanks for the tip on removing the zippers! I was not looking forward to cutting them off.
  2. Not sure how it looks from the front, but you do want some gap there as it helps with lens fogging.
  3. I've put together several different helmets, and it seems easier to install the lens with gaps near the nose. This combined with the ears makes fogging a non-issue. I've lifted my visor and had it rain condensation, so I think the gapped lens really helps.
  4. I printed the JS helmet (a couple of times, but that's another story). As you probably realized, the "dimples" where the bolts lay don't line up with the pivot point. There's a thread or two around here somewhere that provide guidance on how to tackle that part. I think even one has a link to an stl for printing just the disk to put in the dimple. I have used both a Husky tote and a regular ol' Rubbermaid with a collapsible mini dolly. Whatever fits your armor, fits your transportation, and is easy to lug around will work.
  5. Second the PETG suggestion. I once printed a scout helmet in PLA+ and left the freshly primed parts outside to dry--granted, it was Phoenix in late spring, but it didn't take long to warp. Go slow, but keep it moving with a mouse sander if you use one. The friction will heat up the plastic quicker than you think and at the very least make it wavy if not outright melt.
  6. I ordered a vest through him and it’s pretty good. oops I see I already replied earlier. Still love it though.
  7. That’s an awesome idea, and I’m totally gonna steal it!
  8. I bought mine ca. 2015 from Lou and it didn't have any magnets or a metal handguard. Just an FYI.
  9. Judging off your pic above, you’ll probably wanna loosen the thong a bit first. It looks thick enough that might do the trick. If not, adding a piece of plastic shaped like the “under curve” part and inserted inside will definitely eliminate it. Of course you’ll have to reset it in that case.
  10. I think he means it’s meant be a belt, at least I hope because the cod thong is elastic not webbing. He would be right to attach it to the vest rather than use the webbing.
  11. I use the first one (slim husky). I do have to put the helmet in a bag though. Keeps it a little more protected imho. Also fits in the back seat better than the big one. I had the bigger one for my Sandy too.
  12. For my original blaster I shaved off the disk and replaced it with a similar sized magnet
  13. I ended up ordering that pool hose. It's not the same size as the SC kit's hose. I went ahead and purchased a replacement from SC.
  14. A soldering iron, with a smallish tip is the best at popping holes in nylon and even elastic, in my experience.
  15. Thanks, I’ll grab one of those!
  16. Is that the same kind of tubing that SC uses? I've had a pool in the past and those hoses seem too "floppy". Of course, I never cut a 12" section off one and compared it to a det hose. I found something online that looked the part (dental vacuum hose), but it was like $32 for a 12 inch piece.
  17. Having a heck of a time trying to find a replacement piece of hose for a thermal det. Anyone have a source or a link? Thanks!
  18. I did the same on a WTF kid scout helmet. The snout greeblie didn’t fit as the sides of the faceplate recess were sloped weird so I hit it with the heat gun, pressed in the greeblie and….turned it into a pug dog. I was able to re sculpt it eventually but it was very disheartening at the time.
  19. I 3D printed my helmet and hot glued the lens with no issue fwiw.
  20. After I hit submit I looked at them again and saw that hole/dimple and figured that. Glad you got it squared away.
  21. Your right side bolt needs to go in more. In should more or less be flush. The other side looks good though.
  22. The topper should be centered. Disregard the hole in the hump. I just eyeball the pinstripes to match as close as possible. If it looks close it’s probably fine.
  23. It will crack. Ask me how I know I did your option 2
  24. On the zipper, if it’s magnetic you could see a magnet inside the mandarin flap and then pull the zipper up and stick it behind the collar. I have no idea if that would work, cuz I never considered what zippers are made of. Alternatively, maybe a bra hook sewn in the flap and hook the zipper in that?
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