BikerScout007

We've never held it against anyone that has either 7 or 8 indents in the back. I'm wondering if the 9th one you saw is actually the seam in the helmet where it was assembled in two halves.

Shhhh don't let this get around, but the Scout is mostly a soft costume

And there you have it folks. One completed, wire-wrapped thermal detonator. Note to those concerned: when worn you can't see how low the cut is in the back of the clip. Which is why we have recommended them for years. Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

I'll flag this for our Kashyyyk armor team: @ferra and @Jakeputt. They can help guide you through the process. One of the best places to start is right here:

Hahaha my dude you are Chief Armorer! You don't have to give anything up.

Without knowing the actual material, it wouldn't matter for CRL purposes. Leather, leather-like, nylon -- any smooth, shiny black material.

I was gonna say comparing it to the gloves it looks like Nylon.

@Chopper found this: https://www.americanapparel.com/en/nylon-gym-bag_b540w?fbclid=IwAR203JANaLVghgwR4RvUMITAwtolidaq7xExj3PqePZ5B2Y6SOeYRsCn_bI

@Chopper already started running this one down. Let him chime in.

More work on the TD Drilled some hole for the zip tie: Then ziptied the tube to the housing: Got these clips from https://www.theclip.com/store/metal-belt-clip-661-tempered-belt-clip.html I stretched them out so they were easier to get over the belt by myself. Got long rivets to rivet the clip to the tube. Had to use long because the wire wrap is a thicker amount of material to get through. Also added a washer to the rivet on the portion inside the tube.

I'm working with @MrPoopie on that. He did a pair of his specialty boots for @MrsPoopie in white leather.

Finally picked up the Holy Grail of my Scout rig! A pair of HiTec's that are large enough for my big feet. I'll be doing these up with white leather, to get as accurate as possible.

Looks pretty good to me. (Photo: @tfett40) Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

So you are going to be making armor completely from scratch? Most folks either buy an armor kit from a vendor or 3D print armor from one of the many file sets available. For scratch-building I'm afraid I have little advice for you. Maybe obtain one of the 3D print files so you can at least get the proper dimensions. I have to say, your armor kit is going to have to look top-notch in order for it to pass 501st standards. So you may want to consider going one of the two routes I described above. But if you don't care about 501st clearance and are just here to learn what you can about the Shoretrooper, our forum is open to you! Best of luck and let us know if you have any questions.

Ya know what? Never mind we will remove the vest. I'm looking at that scene again on my TV and I can see now that it's the TIE Pilot pocket on the sleeve, not a vest. Consider the vest gone!

It's with a heavy heart and more than a bit of shock that I announce that Jason "Lawless" Sirota, aka @Lawless Scout, has passed away due to cardiac arrest. I don't have all the details, as there seems to be a point in time when Jason went missing, but it seems to have happened over the New Year's holiday. His dog, Joy, was found and taken to a local shelter. She will be picked up by Jason's closest friends soon. For all of you that have gotten to know Jason over the past two years, you know that he was an extremely enthusiastic Pathfinder who took great pleasure in helping others reach their costuming goals. Sometimes he was a little too enthusiastic and I felt like I needed to calm him down a bit, but there was never any doubt that his heart was always in the right place! Not only was Jason a fellow Pathfinder, but for me he was also a fellow Garrison mate. Jason was a constant presence at troops, armor parties and get togethers. His personal life was a bit touch and go toward the end, but he took great solace, as many of us do, in the joy that comes from trooping. Nothing does the spirit better than helping others, and in the 501st, Jason found a place to keep his spirits high even while facing his own struggles. With Jason, the phrase "Larger than Life" really comes to mind. If he was around, you knew he was there. On the last troop that I was on with him, we were all in the dressing tent getting ready, while Jason, who was POC, was outside talking with the event organizers. His voice tended to carry and I remember quipping, "even when Jason is outside, he's still inside with us." That was never truer than it is today. Buckets off, Pathfinders. We lost a good one.

That's a crazy price for boots that need to be painted. Maybe they can be talked down. Or they could be swamp scout boots

Also, try to use a photo hosting service to upload photos. Even Tapatalk makes it easy to host photos.

1. Will do...except the vest, it is clearly there in some shots. [EDITED] 2. We won't use exact measurements on a Level 1 CRL 3. That was already taken out 4. We'll try to get a consensus from all the Scouts on the show. We typically don't write CRLs to allow for every modification seen, but instead to represent a general idea of what the costume is supposed to be.

I'll tag this post for our Kashyyyk experts: @ferra @Chopper @Jakeputt

Oh my, how could I miss that?? I must still be in denial

Nothing here is final until it's final. Post any suggestions below. Required Costume Components The following costume components are present and appear as described below. Helmet Gloss white or semi-gloss. Moderate to heavy desert-brown toned weathering. Lens is black in color and obscures wearer's eyes. Decals are screen accurate. Snout greeblie is medium gray and the aerator portion is painted black. Inner edge of snout recess is black. Bolts are either flat or have concave centers. Helmet is true to the shape of screen used helmet. Earholes are cut out -- mesh or paint is not acceptable. Area behind earholes inside the helmet is blacked out, either with paint or tape. No interior white should show from the outside of the helmet when worn. Balaclava A balaclava is a black head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide any view of the wearer's skin and/or facial hair. Flight Suit The undersuit is a TIE Fighter pilot-style flight suit One piece black coverall/jumpsuit/flight suit with a front invisible zipper. Approximately 1.5" (38.1mm) tall mandarin collar with a chevron shaped, left-over-right velcro closure. On the left bicep there is a code cylinder pocket with no flap, and vertical stitching dividing it into pen sleeves. The bottom front corner of the pocket is cut off at a bevel on the side pointing in view direction, with the broader upside forming the border of the pen sleeves. The right sleeve has a cargo pocket, about 6" (152mm) wide and 5.75" (146mm) on the bicep. The pocket has a 2"(50.8mm) flap. (2) large chest pockets and (2) large front pockets below the belt, without any zipper or flaps. (2) leg pockets with flaps, similar in proportion as the right arm sleeve pocket. If Imperial Cogs are present on the shoulders, they are covered by the shoulder armor and not visible. Neck Seal Black with horizontal ribs Conceals the entire neck Fitted to the wearer. Shoulder Armor Gloss white or semi-gloss Moderate to heavy desert-brown toned weathering. Black elastic secures the armor around upper arm. These pieces are free of any adornment. Upper Arm Armor Gloss white or semi-gloss Moderate to heavy desert-brown toned weathering. Armor has a recessed area with a "t-bit" detail attached within. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around upper arm. Forearm Armor Gloss white or semi-gloss Moderate to heavy desert-brown toned weathering. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around forearm. Gloves Black leather and gauntlet length. Glove details include: Black suede or faux suede patches on top of the middle finger, index finger and thumb. Four tightly spaced ribs that span the knuckles. No labels/logos, clips, or external straps. Chest Armor Gloss white or semi-gloss. Moderate to heavy desert-brown toned weathering. There is a recessed rectangular area present over the right breast that is painted a medium to dark gray. The sides of the chest armor attach to the back armor with white webbing. Back Armor Gloss white or semi-gloss. Moderate to heavy desert-brown toned weathering. The back armor has a center tank attached. The top of the tank is flat with a detail piece painted black. Top detail piece uses the same greeblies as seen on the screen-used armor. Top detail piece has a white painted circle and red line detail. OPTIONAL: The tank has a black stripe detail. "Rank bars" present on the right side of the tank can number between 0 to 6 stripes. Cummerbund, Codpiece and Pouches Cummerbund Made from white fabric Weathered in similar style to armor Closes in back with 50mm (2") hook and loop fastener. Closure is right-over-left. Visible gap between the chest armor and top of cummerbund. Visible below the scout's belt Front of cummerbund has 5 ribs of equal width made of 6 vertical stitch lines, centered between the two fabric pouches. Codpiece Tapered codpiece has a sewn inverted curve detail. Black elastic strap connects codpiece between the legs to either the back of the cummerbund or the flight suit. Weathered in similar style to armor Pouches Pouches are white or off-white. Weathered in similar style to armor. Attached to the cummerbund. Droop over the scout's belt or are worn with the belt over top of them. May be worn in the ROTJ Scout manner, or reversed. Belt Gloss white or semi-gloss. Moderate to heavy desert-brown toned weathering. The belt fastener is made from white webbing material. Belt fasteners are attached with one (1) 1/8 silver rivet on either end of the plastic belt. Two plastic hip boxes (“drop boxes”) hang from the sides of the belt. Drop boxes connect to the belt via white webbing straps. Drop box indents are painted the same color as chest indent. 4 black parachute buckles attach to the drop box straps, one on either side of the drop box. Rear parachute buckles are threaded with the white webbing straps in front of the buckle. Thermal Detonator Thermal detonator box with short corrugated hose attaches to the back of the belt. May be attached by clips or zipties. The correct thermal detonator greeblies are attached to the box. The rectangular part of the thermal detonator greeblie is the same as used in the rebel Endor trooper rank badge. The round greeblie is the same used on the Scout tank topper. The greeblies may be attached on either side of the detonator housing.. Knee Armor Gloss white or semi-gloss. Moderate to heavy desert-brown toned weathering. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around the leg. Worn upside-down. Boots White with moderate to heavy desert-brown toned weathering. The soles of the boot are tan. A "dog bone" shaped strap covers the bridge of the foot. Dog bones have double stitching along the rounded edges as seen in the film. The boots are secured up the back using 25mm (1 inch) white hook and loop fastener. The calf of the boot rises to just slightly underneath the bottom of the knee armor. Left boot closure is left-over-right. Right boot closure is right-over-left. Holster Gloss white or semi-gloss. Moderate to heavy desert-brown toned weathering. Attached to the outside of the right boot with 1/8 rivets. The blaster pistol fits into the holster. Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use. Hold-out Blaster Flat or semi-gloss black. Blaster does not have any visible trigger. Blaster is lightly weathered. Tote Bag Khaki British P37 Pack-styled bag. Strap replaced with Military Double Prong Canvas Belt. A silver plate is attached to the lower right portion of the bag flap. Mounted on the plate are 3 push button-style greeblies: The two outer buttons have red covers The center button is white.

@MrPoopie??

On behalf of Pathfinders Command, I want to wish all Pathfinders -- past, present and future -- a safe and prosperous New Year!

The bund and codpiece seem to have a decent amount of batting in them. Enough so that when the rib stitching is added, they bulge out somewhat. I used two layers, but my batting was thin to start with. With the codpiece, to achieve a screen accurate look, you need more than just batting. You need to put a fabric stabilizer or buckram inside it as well as the batting. This prevents the crumpling (aka camel toe).