BikerScout007

Slightly. You could probably stand to slightly shorten it and make it a bit narrower.

Thank you Gio! We really appreciate your open mindedness and willingness to work with us to make the best possible prop.

I should also point out, if you haven't come across it yet, the Vendor list: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19003-biker-scout-vendor-list/

@Chrisx909x and @StephTrooper are both boot vendors as well. Try PMing them through forum email.

Well done! Full Pathfinder access granted

Also not a requirement for either 1 or 2. And my Hi-Tecs are glued so anything is possible!

@Minimo @KOtrooper any thoughts on this? I can't remember if either of you have a 3D printed Shore. Mine is ABS.

Chef makes his boots the traditional costumer way, which is to buy a donor boot and put vinyl covers over top. What Crowprops and IB did that was different was to create soles that were replicas of the Sierra Sneakers used in ROTJ. They also made the boot covers from leather like the film boots. Just to be clear, it is NOT a requirement to have replica soles for either Level 1 or 2. And it is perfectly acceptable to use marine vinyl to cover the boots for both levels. Leather is also not required. Chef's boots will get you to Level 2, provided all requirements are met.

Kripton's soft goods have been used in Level 2 applications. But as with everything, it depends on how it fits you. It may need further tailoring after you receive it. As for building a helmet -- you know what your skill level is. Some of the scout helmets are trickier than others.

Usually with all things Scout, E6000 is a fine way to go. ABS cement should be fine as well, just make sure you are ready to commit before you apply it!

MonCals helmet is fine for L2. Walt's helmet is not. Hope that helps! Also, keep in mind the Shadow Scout is based on a character from a comic book, so Spec Ops can be a bit more lenient. The ROTJ Scout armor is based on real world props that we can actually see and evaluate. The standards are higher.

Unfortunately, there's a lot of issues with that helmet that would keep it from achieving Level 2 and to be honest, it may have issues clearing level 1. Let's look at your helmet alongside a production ROTJ Scout helmet: Right away a few things jump out. The shape of the eye cutout is incorrect. The snout area has not been painted black. The visor of the Cybercraft is one solid, thick piece. The screen used has a return edge in the front, but the rest of the visor is thin. Are the earholes cutout? It's difficult to tell if that is a cutout or a sticker. Overall, the Cybercraft has a tall, elongated shape -- where as the screen used has a flared faceplate. So for the Level 1 requirement, "Helmet is true to the shape of original screen used helmet" -- I don't think the Cybercraft qualifies. The visor issue alone is enough to fail it. Finally, it's difficult to tell from your picture, but it appears there are only 6 rear vents on the Cybercraft? The production helmets had 7 or 8. You'll be fine with a set of MonCal armor -- it's probably the most accurate set made in the US. I would advise getting one of their helmets as well.

Well done, Andy! And nice job on those custom boots. They look fantastic

Moved to the Helmet forum! Thanks for this! I've printed one myself and I agree, it's very heavy. But Jesus gets right things that a lot of other modelers get wrong (mostly self owns by doing things not found on the original-- like creating realistic vents for above the snout or the trapezoids in the back). There's some good notes for a V2 there if he chooses to do one.

@MrPoopie did anyone model the bolts?

Okay let's see if I can help with these. I'm sure you've read the L2 standards, but for purpose of discussion I'll post them here: OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Snout greeblie is screen-accurate: it is an elongated plate with a rounded top, with a detail modeled after a Yamaha XS1100LG model motorcycle engine and sink aerator affixed to the bottom half. “Sticker” snouts are not acceptable. Helmet bolts are Gray 3M bolts or other replicas with concave centers. (Visible bolt head diameter of 22mm). Optional: For the 'Back and Cap' style bucket constructions, fill the seam around the top of the dome so it is not visible. Optional: A white chin cup is present in the helmet. A lot of the answers you are looking for are right there in the text. The 3M Bolts are 22mm in diameter. The "mesh" was made from a sink aerator and was actually molded along with the rest of the greeblies as one piece. So there is no hole. It's all filled in. Paint color -- we don't know what was used by the production so we don't specify. Rule of thumb is to use a gray that is close in color to your decals. Even for Level 2, a chin cup is not required. It's only optional. But if you look at the photos in the Scoutopedia it does appear to be an inch in width. The Hobart shield does still seem to be available, using the link in the Vendor list. Looks like you can currently get one for $9.99. You need to click "See All Buying Options" Hope this answers it all! Let me know if you need more help with this.

Chris works through email. You would have to contact him through forum PM. He will probably react to my post too. I get my soft parts from him, if that means anything. Steph has a Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1517600621664236 Just remember that no matter what vendor you choose, there's really no such thing as "off-the-rack" soft parts. They almost always will require some tweaking once you get them to get the right fit. Especially if you pursue Level 2.

Yeah for 501st purposes, Rubies is definitely out. I could see some of their vinyl helmets taking a pretty good beating though.

There's also @Chrisx909x if you want to buy from the US (California) And @StephTrooper (Florida)

You may want to consider buying a B-pull kit just for airsoft then. Vendors often have pulls that didn't come out quite right that they sell for discounted prices. ABS is pretty hardy stuff. It stands up to a lot of punishment. But that flexibility does mean it dents and scratches pretty easily. You'll probably do more damage to it crawling around than absorbing pellets.

That is correct from what I've read I'd also like to point out, as I do many times, that the Biker Scout is a SOFT COSTUME. Sure, there is a bit of coverage of the upper back and upper chest, but for the most part you are just wearing soft parts. Not the kind of coverage I would feel confident in absorbing BB hits, unless you plan on wearing some sort of ballistic undersuit.

Sewing was the film method, and I've tried to make my costume a replica of the production suits so I went with that. I don't have a single snap on my Scout anywhere. Velcro does a great job!

Imperial Boots and Crowprops both do the accurate soles. It's the rest of the boot that may need some work to bring it to Lancer spec.

We don't say either way if they should be rounded off so it's not a worry there. However, it's just a good idea in general to round off your sharp corners just to avoid them jabbing into you during a troop!

Just an inch square on each end should be good