Bobik96

If I didn't already have a helmet, i would go with the Altmans. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=13442

Thank you sirs. Decals ordered from Trooperbay. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

With Trooperbay being closed, has as anyone found a good alternative?

A file works very well for smoothing after you cut with the scissors.

I cannot speak to the SC helmet. I only have the SC armor. I am happy with it.

It's a good kit. It is what myself and many others have. You will have to make it 501st approved. This kit is very easy for a novice.

Thanks again Rob. I didn't think it was too thick but I am a novice painter. It also took a hard impact at some point.

What type of paint have you guys had success with on Fiberglass? Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do any of you have experience with acrylic spray paints? I know regular acrylic flexes. Does the acrylic in a can flex and look good? I have a couple small hairline cracks in the paint. Possibly from the helmet flexing a bit.

You have skills sir! The suit looks Great!!! It is hard for me to see where the leg straps sit. They may be a touch low. But again, it's difficult to see where they are.

Thank you gentlemen. I think I found something comparable Rob. I think this project will wait until the spring when I can complete it in a warm garage. I do have another question. With a polyurethane type paint that is turning yellow, is primer recommended if I will be spraying with a rattle can automotive "brighter" white? Originally I sprayed it white then used rattle can automotive black on the snout area directly on the white. It has held up perfectly for two years.

Well I found this. This looks like a better option. Does anyone have any experience with this? http://www.wholesalemarine.com/formula-27-polyester-miracle-mender-filler-38161.html

Do the experts here recommend bondo or glue the missing piece back then bondo? I received this "CB" helmet with a few small hairline cracks in the gelcoat. I repaired those with Bondo and they've held up great. It's not really that bad. This helmet needed repainted anyway. It was turning yellow. Here is the detached piece in place.

Well it looks like I'll be re painting. I found the old paint can. The paint drippings on The can have also yellowed. It does that without any contact with fiberglass. I can't say that I recommend this type of paint. Thanks all for the previous feedback. I think I'll go with good ol rattlecan white. I see that others have had good results that way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is an interesting conversation. Here is a little more background and a pic of the primer and paint that I used. CB recommended a polyurethane paint. From day one it never really matched. I don't feel that the yellow has increased however I cannot say for sure. It really looks different depending on the lighting. A quick internet search this morning told me that spray polyurethane over white usually yellows. So maybe a polyurethane paint was a bad idea. Painting may be inevitable.

Thanks Tim. Did you remove the decals for that process?

Does anyone else,who has a fiberglass helmet, feel that the white just doesn't match the ABS plastic white of their armor? Mine has always been off a little but not really noticeable in person, especially out in the sun. in some low light photos it looks terrible. It doesn't contrast as much in person as it does in these pics but I still want pics to reflect well. I am not sure if re painting would help. Does anyone have any tricks to brighten? Would weathering blend it more? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here is a screen suit on a mannequin. Note the spacing of the pouches and the number of vertical ribs.

It looks well built. You just need to tidy a few things up. Most have been mentioned. I wouldn't sweat the boots man. It looks to me like you have extra material. Hopefully you can just cut some off and attach Velcro again. I have removed boot stitching before. If your careful the holes close up and won't be seen. Here is a pic of the TD. Here is a link to some TD clips that many of us use. http://www.theclip.com/store/Metal-belt-clip-661-Tempered-Belt-Clip.html

My Redkap was so baggy in the legs that I just turned it inside out and ran a seam up the outside of both legs. This took care of the fit and totally hid the side pocket.

If it has a protective film on the inside I would suggest leaving it on until it is attached. If it doesn't I would tape the inside while your applying hot glue. This way if you drip hot glue on the lens it doesn't leave a permanent mark.

Thank you. I agree with the straight cut. I thought otherwise until I made several. It was an interesting experiment.

Thank you for the feedback everyone. As always, it has been very helpful.

Congratulations and welcome !

Well I gave up on the curved design. I wasn't happy with any of them. Last night I made a new old school triangle. I used duck cloth, foam, backed the whole thing with iron on stabilizer, and curved ABS plastic below the arch. with my new "smaller" duck cloth pouches I think it is a good upgrade. I don't know if we will ever solve the mystery of what these things were really made of and the exact shape. BEFORE AND AFTER.