Dart

Well, there's always the option of ringing up SC and seeing if you can get some replacement parts. That said, strengthening it from the back is really your best bet. Not really worth gluing the crack from the front. The flexing will just crack it again. If you want to prevent the cracking from going any farther, the old trick is to drill a hole at the tip of the crack. In this case, find yourself a teeny-tiny drill bit and make a hole just big enough. Then you can either patch and repaint or leave it as is and cover it with some "weathering".

Oh geez... not THIS guy... Kidding! Chris is good people and a hardworking TK who's starting to see the light. Scout is a great combination of armour and soft bits. If you need any local help, hit me up!

Hello Nisa! It's a good video, but it really depends on the armour you're purchasing and what the belt looks like. Some kits are single-piece belts, others have several pieces (the SC kit has 3 pieces and is what she used in the video). Your best solution would be to post some photos of your belt pieces and we can assist you from there.

Princess Auto doesn't stock much more than the hi-viz stuff. I'd try looking on ebay, or if you've got someone who's handy with a sewing machine, find a basic jumpsuit pattern at Fabricland and have it made. I did that... sorta.

I made mine. Try looking on ebay or even places like Walmart, Payless... places like that. Or, you could get them made by one of the capable members here if you choose not to make your own.

You can carry whatever troopers are supposed to carry. We never get hassled, partly because we've got a few officers in our garrison. It's just the usual stuff - don't go walking around with the stuff out of costume. So if you're heading to a troop and you happen to have a DL-19 pew-pewy, just wrap it in a blanket or get a zippered soft rifle bag. Also, don't worry about the orange-tip thing... it's never been an issue for us. Importing... just be sure that the shipper doesn't use the words "replica" or "gun". Descriptions like "blaster", "prop", or even "plastic toy" are usually ok.

So far, so good. Honestly, you could still bring up the hip boxes at least 1.5" - 2". Also, your 'bund is still sticking out the bottom. One thing you might want to do is to extend the elastic between the legs so you can pull the 'bund up. Also, you can sew velcro to the flak vest and 'bund so they stick to each other and keep each other up. You're soooo close! Great work!

Honestly? You're better off just getting a regular set of black coveralls and tailoring it (riding patch, thigh straps, mudflap, neck closure, pocket removal). Plenty of work stores or surplus stores in and around Toronto that'll have something.

Were they made using Unicorn Tears? Unobtanium? Ya can't keep us in suspense like that...

http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?app=gallery&image=1989 This is my old holster (with magnet) but my newer one is similar. On my newer holster, I used a bit thinner foam and I also put it on the inside front of the holster. I'll try to take a photo today when I get home.

Just my underoos. I used to wear a wicking shirt but I found that it would get too hot, or it would bunch up weirdly.

Which blaster do you own? If you find the one you have now is too small, you can always hot-glue some white craft foam on the inside. That way, your blaster is more secure and not flopping around.

Pretty much what Lou suggests, but I'd add that the gap shouldn't be MORE than 3-4 inches. Ideally, the bottom of the hip boxes shouldn't be below your crotch. If they are, pull those boxes up. There's precedent for them being 1-2 inches from the belt. Again, as Lou said, go by the reference pics and screen grabs.

Well, I checked my non-Special Ed. version. And it had holes, as above. But, as was stated above, it's likely a stunt one that was made. Still pretty neat.

Was that screenshot from the Special Edition? the holes might have been added in. *sigh*... I guess I know what I'm doing tonight, haha!

Yeah, doing the snout on the MLC's is tough because it's very pointy. The screen used buckets had a much flatter and wider ridge around the snout. Your wife did a great job!

I see the pics. I can't see any major issues. With her bucket on photo, it looks like the collar on the jumpsuit is maybe a bit big in the front? Dunno... I'd clear her for duty.

I'm planning on redoing my flak vest. From staring at screen shots and the Blu-ray 360 shots too long, I've noticed that it looks like a raglan-sleeved shirt design. That's how I plan on making mine.

Congrats!

Thing is, there really isn't a lot of usable space in the back of the boxes. That's about the only reason I didn't do something similar to what you're proposing.

If the legs are really baggy, definitely get them taken in. They shouldn't be really snug, but should fit like a pair of regular pants (or jeans). The flap is typically the width of your waist and the length is typically from your waist to just about the bottom of your butt. Here's a basic template of the riding patch: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=10601&view=findpost&p=89693 The important thing to remember about this template is that it WILL need to be sized to fit you. The front edge of the riding patch should stop almost half way across the front of your thigh. As for the thigh elastics, they should be 2", and just regular, not the reinforced/heavy duty elastics.

Do you have a rough visual idea of what you'd like to attempt? To be honest, I just use my 2 pouches for anything. When you troop, you don't typically need to carry everything with you since your stuff is locked up in a secured area. I never carry my wallet or phone with me and the only thing in my left pouch is my Aker amp. To each their own, just make sure your solution doesn't impact the exterior of the hip box.

Heat guns can really deform the plastic a bit much. My suggestion would be to use hot/boiling water and then form it to your arm (towel between skin and plastic, naturally).

It's ok. Looks like they took inspiration from the Kenner scope but fixed the rest of it. Resin blasters are cool, but they can break easily. If you end up going this way, make sure your holster has a bit of padding in it (glue some thin white craft foam inside) to give it a bit of protection/help keep it from falling out easily.

Great job, Nigel! If I may offer one bit of advice: pull the cod up about 2" or so. It really shouldn't tuck under very much. Otherwise, you're lookin' great!