Dart

Ideally, there should only be 1 rivet hole at the ends of the belt.

Reminds me of the blasters Hotshot made a few years ago. These could've been from the first run he did previous to that. As for it being 501st approvable, I don't see why not. It's a bit bent but if it fits in your holster, it's probably fine.

I wouldn't worry too much, Jamie. That said, longer is better in case they need to be altered. Ideally, the top of the shoulder armour should be about where you've mentioned it.

I used a chisel blade on my X-acto knife. One thing to remember is that you don't need to go really, really deep with the cuts. When I measured the Sierra Sneakers I had earlier this year, the lines/grooves were only 1/16" deep. Going more than 1/8" is a pain and completely unnecessary.

Finally! Congrats! Now you just have to get Jae's kit up to snuff.

You'll need to get washers that will fit the rivet. So if you're going with 5/32" rivets, get the same sized washers.

You can always use the poor-man's fibreglass - get some crazy glue and some thin cotton strips, spread some glue over the crack, press the cotton on and then add more crazy glue right into the fabric, pushing it in with the tip. That should hold it.

Ideally, it should be no less than 1.5" - 2" tall. The balaclava should tuck underneath the collar.

Actually, the lenses should be a "darker material". Green isn't the colour you should be going for. Ideally, either a shade 3 or shade 5 smoke lens is what you want.

Just make sure it's not too thick. You should be aiming to get suede that's no more than 1-2 oz.

Yeah, defo post up whatever photos so we can give you the low-down.

Coolio. Also, if you do go the UA way, get the Heatgear stuff, not the Coldgear. The Heatgear is much thinner and lighter, wheras the Coldgear is thicker and really tight.

One nice thing about the UA style is the placement of the seams on the head. I've seen several scouts loose their minds because their el cheapo balaclavas with the centre seam was pressing on their heads. If you don't want to spend much, but want a similar hood to the UA ones, I might be able to help you out. A surplus store near me sells knock-offs for $10. They're not as nice, but they work just fine. Lemme know.

Those would work. Nice find!

Gaps are ok with the tank. If you check out the screen-shots from the gallery, you'll see that the tank doesn't sit flush with the back armour.

It's already been said, but not like this...

Welcome to BS.N! If you have any questions or concerns about joining the Canadian Garrison, let me know and I can help you out.

Sometimes, batches of plastic will have a colder, blueish hue, others will have a warmer, pinkish hue. That's nothing new. If you have to paint it, go for it.

If you remove the batting, it looks too thin. My best advice is to wear it nice and snug and if you need to adjust the back velcro, you can do that.

Welcome aboard! Well, you hit the nail on the head with the SC armour. No, it's not the most accurate. MC is currently the best. If you want to wait a year or so, buy from MC. If you'd like to scout it up sooner than that, SC is what you want. Greeblies are around, check out the BST area here.

Rivets won't crack the armour unless it's made from old, brittle plastic. Are you saying that you want to velcro the tank topper on the hump? Crazy glue isn't really the best option because it forms a brittle bond. Something like E6000 is better because it's flexible.

If you're talking about the vertical strip of velcro that closes the cummerbund, it should be 2" wide. Ideally, the velcro strips are the entire width of the 'bund, but so long as no one can tell, it's all fine.

You can check out the gallery here: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?app=gallery&album=145 There's a few photos that show how it's attached. Starts at the inside bottom of the sideburn, out the bottom slit, up into the top slit and through the chincup. Reverse the process to finish the other side.

This is where having a set of files and sandpaper come in handy. This way, you can take off only a little bit without the fear of cutting too much off.

I would concur with your feels. Definitely take more outta the top and open up the spots to the inside bottoms too. Best thing... find a good head-on photo here in the gallery and stare at it until your eyes bleed and the shape is burnt into your retinas. Then go do more cutting. Also, the SC helmet is known to be a bit on the soft side, as far as details go, so go slowly. Also also, when you think you're done, check for symmetry. Get it as close as possible.