Dart

If you remove the batting, it looks too thin. My best advice is to wear it nice and snug and if you need to adjust the back velcro, you can do that.

Welcome aboard! Well, you hit the nail on the head with the SC armour. No, it's not the most accurate. MC is currently the best. If you want to wait a year or so, buy from MC. If you'd like to scout it up sooner than that, SC is what you want. Greeblies are around, check out the BST area here.

Rivets won't crack the armour unless it's made from old, brittle plastic. Are you saying that you want to velcro the tank topper on the hump? Crazy glue isn't really the best option because it forms a brittle bond. Something like E6000 is better because it's flexible.

If you're talking about the vertical strip of velcro that closes the cummerbund, it should be 2" wide. Ideally, the velcro strips are the entire width of the 'bund, but so long as no one can tell, it's all fine.

You can check out the gallery here: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?app=gallery&album=145 There's a few photos that show how it's attached. Starts at the inside bottom of the sideburn, out the bottom slit, up into the top slit and through the chincup. Reverse the process to finish the other side.

This is where having a set of files and sandpaper come in handy. This way, you can take off only a little bit without the fear of cutting too much off.

I would concur with your feels. Definitely take more outta the top and open up the spots to the inside bottoms too. Best thing... find a good head-on photo here in the gallery and stare at it until your eyes bleed and the shape is burnt into your retinas. Then go do more cutting. Also, the SC helmet is known to be a bit on the soft side, as far as details go, so go slowly. Also also, when you think you're done, check for symmetry. Get it as close as possible.

There's always Value Village or Goodwill. There was a good boot that was on ebay for a bit. Ideally, you're looking for a boot that looks like this one... http://www.ebay.com/...=item541bf43bf8. You can always try hitting up the Cookstown outlet mall on 400 and 89. They might have some stuff there.

Be sure to check out Payless for boots. Also, scoot by your local Walmart to see what's there. I've gotta redo my boots too so if I see anything, I'll be sure to let you know.

PM'ed ya back. Yeah, we do things a bit differently in our garrison. We've got a private Facebook page for all the new recruits who are serious about joining but aren't 501st members yet. It's just easier.

Ideally, the less textured, the better. That said, have you been in touch with anyone from your local garrison? Maybe they can point you to a different source? If this is all you can find, I'm sure you'll still have no issue with approval.

Well, the nice thing is that the torso of the undersuit is almost completely covered. The panels on my suit go from my upper chest to my belly button and about 6" wide. As for the 'bund, when I had the one from Marcel (made of cotton twill), it didn't really matter as my suit was also cotton and would just pass the moisture through. Kinda part of the whole deal. My newer 'bund was made from some heavy dull satin (the dull side faces out, not the shiny side) and it actually never really gets too damp. Only if I'm wearing it for many, many hours and it's really hot (like this year's FanExpo in Toronto). Even then, it's nothing that won't air dry within a short time. Also, as a general note to anyone else reading this, if you ever find yourself needing to wear your suit over multiple days without being able to wash it, get some alcohol in a spray bottle (or really cheap Vodka if you can't get the alcohol), turn your suit inside out and spray the smelly areas. Then hang it up somewhere to dry. The alcohol (or vodka) kills the bacteria and prevents the stank from happening.

Your best bet is to cut some panels in the front of the suit, on either side of the zipper. I've got some large vents there that are filled in with some sport cloth (that moisture-wicking stuff from Fabricland that's smooth on one side, textured on the other.) I also have a hole in the front of my flak vest, same material. Really makes a difference.

The way guys like WW work is that they'll order a big batch, sell that out and then order again, so sometimes he's out of stock until the next order. All I can say is to be patient and find something else to work on until they're available.

It's a good looking suit. If it's not expensive, it'd be worth trying to dye it black. Just add the riding patch, mudflap, straps and a strap across the collar.

Well, it looks about right. I can't say anything about the maker but this is a solid resin blaster. It'll probably be a bit on the heavy side but it'll also be on the fragile side. I've never been a huge fan of all resin blasters, simply because of that. That said, it's up to you. Spending a bit more for a Hyperfirm or similar scout blaster is well worth the price and it'll last much longer without much chance of breaking.

Another option is to put some ventilated panels in the jumpsuit where they're underneath the 'bund and flak vest. Sew some mesh in there and then make another hole in the vest for more ventilation. I've got that for mine, and it's made things easier when the weather gets hot.

Meh. It's just a TFA trooper painted black and red. Not a true scout. I'm sure they'll have something for us in one of the later flicks as they really out did themselves for TFA introducing a new TK, Flamethrower guy, TD and TS.

I know the guy who made the video. There used to be a guy who called himself the Unicycle Scout, hence the skate shoes. Like has been previously mentioned, this is more or less how to do it.

With respect, as my garrison's deputy GML, if a prospective scout sent me photos of a boot made with this stuff, I'd turn him down. It looks interesting, but it's just not anywhere near accurate.

For the bottom hole, I used a silver Chicago screw. I just made sure it didn't have a hole in the cap.

They look great! One note I have, and this goes for anyone who's carving soles: The original depth of the cuts was only about 1/8" deep when I measured them from the Sierra Sneakers I used to own. So, if you don't have a lot of meat on the soles, or just don't wanna do that much carving, know that the original cuts were pretty shallow.

Don't forget, these flicks are usually shot about a year in advance of their release, so what was in stock then, might not be in stock when it's released (or now). To the point of Maul's boots, our local Maul just scored a real pair of FT Titan 101's in his size... lucky bugger!

I know this isn't the first time Hi-Tec have been contacted about these boots. That said, both times they seem to be interested in talking. At the least, we can find out what they think and what they would be willing to do. Who knows? Maybe they'd be interested in doing it and making it a "retro/vintage" line of boots? Maybe the hipsters will go for them?

Yup. You can use a heavier cotton twill, duck cloth or canvas for the cummerbund. Just make sure it's white. The only off-white stuff (optional) are the pouches and webbing (chest-back, hip boxes, top of shoulder).