Dart

There's always Value Village or Goodwill. There was a good boot that was on ebay for a bit. Ideally, you're looking for a boot that looks like this one... http://www.ebay.com/...=item541bf43bf8. You can always try hitting up the Cookstown outlet mall on 400 and 89. They might have some stuff there.

Be sure to check out Payless for boots. Also, scoot by your local Walmart to see what's there. I've gotta redo my boots too so if I see anything, I'll be sure to let you know.

PM'ed ya back. Yeah, we do things a bit differently in our garrison. We've got a private Facebook page for all the new recruits who are serious about joining but aren't 501st members yet. It's just easier.

Ideally, the less textured, the better. That said, have you been in touch with anyone from your local garrison? Maybe they can point you to a different source? If this is all you can find, I'm sure you'll still have no issue with approval.

Well, the nice thing is that the torso of the undersuit is almost completely covered. The panels on my suit go from my upper chest to my belly button and about 6" wide. As for the 'bund, when I had the one from Marcel (made of cotton twill), it didn't really matter as my suit was also cotton and would just pass the moisture through. Kinda part of the whole deal. My newer 'bund was made from some heavy dull satin (the dull side faces out, not the shiny side) and it actually never really gets too damp. Only if I'm wearing it for many, many hours and it's really hot (like this year's FanExpo in Toronto). Even then, it's nothing that won't air dry within a short time. Also, as a general note to anyone else reading this, if you ever find yourself needing to wear your suit over multiple days without being able to wash it, get some alcohol in a spray bottle (or really cheap Vodka if you can't get the alcohol), turn your suit inside out and spray the smelly areas. Then hang it up somewhere to dry. The alcohol (or vodka) kills the bacteria and prevents the stank from happening.

Your best bet is to cut some panels in the front of the suit, on either side of the zipper. I've got some large vents there that are filled in with some sport cloth (that moisture-wicking stuff from Fabricland that's smooth on one side, textured on the other.) I also have a hole in the front of my flak vest, same material. Really makes a difference.

The way guys like WW work is that they'll order a big batch, sell that out and then order again, so sometimes he's out of stock until the next order. All I can say is to be patient and find something else to work on until they're available.

It's a good looking suit. If it's not expensive, it'd be worth trying to dye it black. Just add the riding patch, mudflap, straps and a strap across the collar.

Well, it looks about right. I can't say anything about the maker but this is a solid resin blaster. It'll probably be a bit on the heavy side but it'll also be on the fragile side. I've never been a huge fan of all resin blasters, simply because of that. That said, it's up to you. Spending a bit more for a Hyperfirm or similar scout blaster is well worth the price and it'll last much longer without much chance of breaking.

Another option is to put some ventilated panels in the jumpsuit where they're underneath the 'bund and flak vest. Sew some mesh in there and then make another hole in the vest for more ventilation. I've got that for mine, and it's made things easier when the weather gets hot.

Meh. It's just a TFA trooper painted black and red. Not a true scout. I'm sure they'll have something for us in one of the later flicks as they really out did themselves for TFA introducing a new TK, Flamethrower guy, TD and TS.

I know the guy who made the video. There used to be a guy who called himself the Unicycle Scout, hence the skate shoes. Like has been previously mentioned, this is more or less how to do it.

With respect, as my garrison's deputy GML, if a prospective scout sent me photos of a boot made with this stuff, I'd turn him down. It looks interesting, but it's just not anywhere near accurate.

For the bottom hole, I used a silver Chicago screw. I just made sure it didn't have a hole in the cap.

They look great! One note I have, and this goes for anyone who's carving soles: The original depth of the cuts was only about 1/8" deep when I measured them from the Sierra Sneakers I used to own. So, if you don't have a lot of meat on the soles, or just don't wanna do that much carving, know that the original cuts were pretty shallow.

Don't forget, these flicks are usually shot about a year in advance of their release, so what was in stock then, might not be in stock when it's released (or now). To the point of Maul's boots, our local Maul just scored a real pair of FT Titan 101's in his size... lucky bugger!

I know this isn't the first time Hi-Tec have been contacted about these boots. That said, both times they seem to be interested in talking. At the least, we can find out what they think and what they would be willing to do. Who knows? Maybe they'd be interested in doing it and making it a "retro/vintage" line of boots? Maybe the hipsters will go for them?

Yup. You can use a heavier cotton twill, duck cloth or canvas for the cummerbund. Just make sure it's white. The only off-white stuff (optional) are the pouches and webbing (chest-back, hip boxes, top of shoulder).

Ok, there's 2 different ways you can build the cummerbund: 1. Big rectangle of cloth with the lines/velcro stitched in and a separate cod piece that attaches to the flak vest (with velcro or snaps - screen accurate) 2. Big rectangle of cloth with the lines/velcro stitched in but with cod attached (most common form) There's a template floating around in the gallery (I think) that has some general measurements to assist your tailor.

You can wear black coveralls, but be sure to tailor the arms and legs if they're on the baggy side. As long as it looks good and has what it needs to have (see OP's list), it's good to go. We'll never find the original Esprit suits, so we'll have to be content with what we can figure out. I guess it's true that they give the hardest assignments to the best troops...

As scouts, we're very fortunate that speaker size isn't an issue. I've been rockin' an Aker speaker in my left pouch for 5 years. I don't bother with an iComm since the scouts were heard very clearly without the static. Plus, I've had some garrison mates have major issues with them. The aerator speakers are cool but they're not very powerful. The small cone diameter doesn't really allow much volume, so if you're in a noisy convention hall, they're not as useful.

Yes. I have my front and back connected by some webbing with snaps. I snap my right side first, then slide in and snap the left side. Then I do the bottom straps after I route my mic wire through my soft parts.

Yes and no. It's an older model kit (late 70's - early 80's) and at that scale, they're not super easy to come by in a complete form. I paid a bit for mine and I got a deal.

If you look along the bottom edge, you'll see some extra bits that aren't on your version. Otherwise, really nice work!

Ideally, the riding patch should be visible from the front. It really should come around to almost half way around the front of the thigh, and about a hand's width above the knee. Lots of examples in the gallery of the original suit.