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Nope, the tape will peel off, so long as you do it soon after sticking. I use the stuff from 3M. Just tape the thing together first, mark some lines on the inside and then stick it all together.

Welcome aboard! Yeah, there really aren't many people who offer a scout complete. You'll have to do a bit of legwork (or lots of reading here) to figure out what's what. But it's ok. We're all here to give you a hand if you need. Just take a few days to go through all the stickies and anything else, do your research and stay away from ebay unless told otherwise. It's a great costume, but it takes a bit of work.

The KS helmet is a bit tricky, but moreso in that you really need to be mindful of where you cut and how much you cut off. Work little by little and take your time, a heatgun will help with the curavature, but it can be done. If you decide to go with the KS, don't use glue. If you can find some indoor/outdoor double-sided foam tape, that'll make assembly (and your life) much easier. I stuck mine together like that and it's been abused for 4 years, never popped apart.

I think one piece that's critical to get right if you're going for a more accurate look, is that the cod doesn't go too far between the legs. The cod should really end below the front part of the crotch and not wrap below. Also, if you look at the chevron, it's not really that curved. The lines are straight but the apex is just curved. Looks good, but be sure that the bund is a bit higher at the bottom to give clearance for the belt.

That would make sense. They look like someone took a fine pen to them, but that's probably a dirty cut edge.

The "stripes" are more than likely just weathering that was added. They weren't meant to be clearly defined lines and we don't have any evidence that any markings there were intentional, like the tank stripes.

Nope. Nada yet.

I wouldn't be surprised if the origin of the muzzle was something like that. They probably just cut off the threads and twisted some filler material to smooth out the remainder.

Regarding the belt, I think a lot of scouts wear it where they'd usually put a non-costume belt... but that's wrong. When i redid my 'bund, I wanted to be sure I had the belt in the right spot. That way, I could determine the best pattern for everything. What I did was put my belt on and I sat down. Think of it this way: When the scouts were on their speeder bikes, the belts were in the right spot, so when they stood up, they'd still be in the same place. I found that I had to move my belt up around my bellybutton to get the right look. I'll be working on V.2 of my 'bund after Halloween but I first need to find some white cotton canvas (same material used in the movie) for both the 'bund and flak vest.

The original model piece that Chef posted comes from the 1:12 Tamiya Ferrari 312T4 model kit. The piece itself goes on the engine.

I think another thing to consider here is that MC makes more than just a scout, wheras SC only (publicly) shows a few different types of props for sale, unlike the many, many props that MC builds. I think that's a big reason he can turnaround a TB order much faster than MC can.

Actually, I've got MC armour and I don't find that it's too small for me. If anything, I feel like all the pieces are the best in proportion compared to to KS or SC. That said, I think that anyone much bigger than myself (6'2", 250lbs) probably would be better suited to SC.

This might be a good time for an enterprising individual to snag the pics still on the auction website and post them in the gallery... jus' sayin'...

Hi Phil, Typically, the mudflap should be waist-wide and extend down to the bottom of the butt (more or less). The riding patch(es) typically end about 4" above the knee. As for shape, if you check out the Gallery, you can see some of the screen-used suits and what they look like. Ideally, the front edge of the patch comes around to the top of the thigh (photos illustrate this better). The 2" elastic should be mid-thigh, or slightly above and should not be loose or hanging. When worn, the elastic should be just a bit snug. Hope this helps you out.

Just sold for 17,000 pounds. Damn.

Just an FYI, the auction's live right now. If anyone won the lottery, you've got maybe 30 minutes before the helmet comes up.

Just curious if there's any updates in regards to shipping? Picked one of these bad boys up and I just wanted to know when I should expect a helmet-sized brown box at my door...

Interesting. If there is a groove there, I'd be more inclined to go with "A". Really, what would be great is to have some more profile photos of that piece (from the bottom or top to see if there's that groove). My only concern is that it also looks like it could just be the shine from a flash that's creating that effect on the piece. If it was from a model kit, I agree, it'd have to be from something that was at least 1:12 scale, possibly up to 1:6. It's at times like these that I envy the TK's for having access to real suits from the movies instead of having to scrounge around from photos like we do. Gino, you've been a great help, but there's still soooo much we don't know, ha! Any chance you could "borrow" a complete set of armour?

#2 is from the 1:12 Tamiya Ferrari 312T4 kit (the detail bit). It's not listed in the Studio Scale site, btw. There were several Ferarri 312 kits, but only the 312T4 has the correct part.

I would chip in what I could. We'd need to be sure we had enough to handle the other bids. I'm sure it'll sell for more than it's posted.

Tried it. Still tweaking. Also working on a new flak vest so I can configure things as Gino mentioned they were in the archives (cod attached to flak vest with bund on top). I was also experimenting with using a different material (heavy dull satin, using the dull side). Also did something a bit like Pandatrooper did for his cod, but with no foam. Hoping to have it all done before the end of the year in the actual materials used (more or less).

Hi Rachel, Yes, you can use a utility knife, but be careful. Mark out where you want the final edge to be. Use that to cut the bigger piece out but don't use it for the final edge. You can get a small hacksaw blade and use that to trim a bit more off and then finish it off with a file and sandpaper.

Looks pretty good! The only things that really stand out to me are: 1. You could pull up those boxes a couple of inches 2 The legs look a bit baggy. Do you have stirrups on the bottom of the leg? If not, that could help solve the issue. 3. Pouches... a bit askew. I'd play around with how you hang them to see if you can't straighten them out.

In my search, I totally thought about that, Philipp. My problem was that I couldn't find anything from model kits of the era, that was close. It's possible that it's a piece of a kit, but which one, haha! To be honest, the top hex shape almost looks like a hex screw head. That's why I think that it's scratch-made. I would, however, LOVE to be proven wrong. I'm going to message my guy and see if we can't include the recessed bit in the CAD model. Shouldn't be a big dealio.

Included some info in my other post here... http://forum.bikersc...ndpost&p=109120 Also, in regards to the thigh webbing, I just got some of my own stuff that I think might help. It's called "Plush Woven Elastic" and it kinda looks similar. It doesn't have a really distinct vertical pattern, but it's thicker than the usual stuff.