Dart

The difference there is that both of those are "stunt" helmets. You can tell because the bottom edge of the visor is flared out much more than the other 4 in the, and we know the visor was cut out a bit more to fit the stuntmen's goggles and increase vision. I wouldn't use those two for any reference regarding the visor or lens size/shape.

Same! Looking forward to Sept/Oct! I'm very curious how it actually compares to whatever's out there. Sure, we have the photos, but to see a helmet derived from the original molds/existing helmets is very exciting!

Yup, I wear glasses under my KS with no problems at all.

I remember when I got my gloves. They were the first part I received. It only gets better, my friend.

Interesting. Just to play the Devil's Advocate, here's a few of my nit-picky things (please don't take these personally - the helmet isn't terrible at all, but there's a few spots that stick out to me.) The snout piece shouldn't have the two small holes drilled out, the nose and the hook decals don't quite look right (arc is too thick at the ends, hook looks a bit stretched horizontally), the snout plate seems a bit too long, and the edge of the visor where it meets the helmet doesn't seem to line up very flush (could just be how it's sitting on the stand). Overall, it doesn't seem too bad, but for the price, it's a lot. Let us know how it troops!

You might reconsider just flying with velcro alone (industrial or otherwise). Having some metal clips makes a big difference if someone tries to pull it off or if you get stuck in a crowd and it gets bumped hard.

The only thing I could suggest, is if you're getting KS to build your bucket, maybe ask them not to put the stickers and greeblies on, if you plan on getting better ones. The snout is far from accurate and the stickers leave a few things to be desired. They're all still approvable, but they're noticibly different.

Not to take away from the fiberglass luv that's goin' on in this thread, but an ABS helmet would be just fine in the same instance. Remember, bumpers and other car panels have been made from the stuff for years. ABS can take a few hits.

I wouldn't worry about getting scammed. KS will deliver, but they're not always very prompt with the emails. I'd say to give them another week before shooting an email to them.

Fully realizing that the pic is a prototype, I hope the bottom of the faceplate isn't anywhere near as flared out as it looks in the photo. And maybe it's just the angle, but the snout looks kinda short. Not trying to poop on anyone's parade, just some observations.

Less is more.

The bottom of the hump should be flush with the bottom of the back. What you can do is make an L-bracket that you can line up with the top of the hump. Just glue that into the inside top of the hump (preferably with something like an epoxy or something stronger than E-6000) and then screw it in from the inside of the back. As far as the hole at the bottom, you should be able to join that up with a chicago screw. That's how mine is done. When I get home, I'll take a photo of what mine looks like.

Agreed with Jim and his points. You could also trim a bit more from the top straps of the shoulder/back armour to help the fit. Ideally, the bottom of the hip boxes shouldn't go much lower than the bottom of the cod piece. I noticed you threaded the webbing for the hip boxes through the buckles. That's cool, but be sure that it's the same for every buckle. To do that, you'll probably have to undo where the webbing connects at the back of the belt. When you reconnect the webbing, you could reattach it closer to the middle of the back (if that makes sense). Otherwise, good work.

'Grats! May you miss many trees.

I've made myself some foam boxes from craft foam. Just glue/duct tape them together and you're set. Nice and light while giving you enough space for an Aker amp and a snack or two.

Jacqueline, at your size, you'll have to do a bit of trimming. But like Dylan mentioned above, just take it once piece at a time.

A removable brassard can be very cool, so long as you get the ok from your unit to wear it for a particular event (usually if it's non-canon, you should be ok). Otherwise, I'll just leave this here...

My only warning is if you're putting stiffer foam in the knee pads, watch where you kneel. I've personally cracked my kneepads a few times (up the edge, at the bottom). Just an FYI.

Congratulations!

Interesting shots, Jason. Thing is, us scouts kinda got short-changed in the costume consistency department. There's some on-screen armour bits that look like they have 1" webbing, yet in another shot, on a different scout, the same strap looks considerably thinner. That all said, it really makes it difficult for us to have a definitive scout trooper to copy. Aside from the fact that, unlike the TKs, who have actual movie armour to base measurements from, we just don't have access to enough bits to be able to do much more than guesstimate sizes. The idea that there's a second bottom knee strap is interesting, but the problem is consistency. The one on the Blu-ray shows something like that, but we've seen displays where that wasn't the case. It's enough to make your head spin, ha! If you haven't already picked up your elastics, you're better off to just stick to the CRL's.

If you look online, you can get foam knee pad inserts that you can custom cut to your needs. That's what I have in mine.

A bit taller would be better. If you look at the film, the boots come up to the bottom of the knee armour.

Take your time. I know it can be frustrating to be so close, yet so far. The 501st isn't going anywhere. Get the parts you need. Before you know it, you'll be a member. "Patience you must have, my young padawan."

Actually, it looks like the stitching is on the upper part of the sole (stitched to the boot), which would be covered by the vinyl. These look like good ones, and for a good price too!

The best advice I can give you is to do a bit more research, get some more prices and just save your money. Every time you get paid, put a little bit away for the armour. It sucks, I know, but most of us have been there. I lucked out in that I got my armour, unassembled, second-hand. No waiting time for me, save the time it took in the mail. Have patience, grasshopper. In the meanwhile, you can work on the soft parts. They're generally cheaper, especially if you can sew or if you know someone who can.