Dart

Satin has a bit of sheen to it but it's not super glossy. Having a satin black next to the gloss white of the helmet, to me, just looks better than if it was all glossy.

Honestly, you're better off just keeping it simple. Mask off the shape (about half the width of the outside edge). Then just use a plastic bag or something to mask off the rest. I used a satin Black spray paint and it turned out nicely. Masking off the curve can be a bit tricky so take your time and really check the curve before you paint.

Could be. The sole looks like it'd have to be modded a bit but it could be good.

Wow! Thanks for the great tutorial! I'm diggin' the magnet mod too.

Honestly, not crazy about how they did the weathering. I realize that misted black spraypaint is how they did it, I just feel that the example above is just over-done. If it's a decent price, I'd easily snap up a clean version.

I have my pouches velcro'd to the inside of my chest armour. My right pocket is just foam but my left carries my mp3 player and my aker amp. No problems keeping all that up. They don't pull the armour down at all, if anything it's the small tab that connects the 'bund to my chest that can sometimes pull.

I use velcro for my belt and I've never had an issue. I believe the piece I have on mine is about 2" wide by 5 or 6" long.

You should take them into a dry cleaner that does leather. They can tell you what they can do with them.

I don't. Leather generally doesn't need cleaning unless you spill something on them. Even then, you'd just need a damp cloth to wipe 'em down. If your gloves get particularly sweaty/smelly, you can always ball up some newspaper and shove it in the gloves. That'll help with the smell and absorb whatever moisture is in there.

Plus, if anyone decided to switch to the (possible) new standard, It's just a matter of ripping a few stitches and sewing a few new lines.

I do my cummerbund up from the front, rotate it around until it's centred, then I stick my arms through the sleeves of the vest (sewn to the 'bund) and I just do it myself. I've learned how to feel if the two bits of velcro are lined up. I should also add, I'm pretty flexible so that helps...

If he were going for Lancer, then you'd be correct. However, for basic 501st clearance, outta the box - even with the inaccurate stickers and snout greeb, it's still passable.

The TK belts are canvas. It's probable that they're the same width.

Definitely looks like 5 raised areas. Also, it looks like the cummerbund ends just above the belt and that the cod starts out wider than I thought it did. Guess I've got some new specs for my 'bund.

Actually, the only reason there was a neckseal on the 360 scout is because they were being lazy and kept the TK undersuit on the dummy instead of getting a proper undersuit (which was probably on tour). Never was a neckseal.

I've never had the slippage issue but I have my bund sewn to my flak vest. Makes a huge difference. As for not washing the bund, I'd highly suggest against that. Dunno about you but after a long sweaty troop, all the soft stuff needs a good wash.

Yup, need to paint the mesh black.

Any of the SW weapons of the era that would've been used by the empire would work.

If you pad the inside of the knee, the return edges won't make a difference. If you check out my thread HERE, I've found some cool padding to use that's comfy and looks good. Also, if you sew some velcro to the front of your knee and stick some in the kneepad, you don't need the elastic to be so tight. That also makes it more comfortable to wear.

Thanks guys. Nope, you can't see it. One of the things I really like about the padding I used is that it kinda looks like what would be there if these were real knee pads.

For the record, you don't need to paint the armour or put any sort of clear coat on it. The lines and stripes on the tank are usually just black vinyl pinstriping that you can find at an auto store. It sounds like you're really overwhelmed but just remember to breathe. As far as the bicep pieces go, I'm not sure what you mean by putting in staples. Generally, you just paint and then glue the t-bits on top of the plastic in the t-shaped recesses. The black elastic is usually just sewn in place. The shoulder bells should not have any slots cut into them for strapping. If you have some loop velcro and some sticky hook velcro, you can get the looped side sewn to the shoulders of your flak vest and stick the hook side on the inside of the shoulder armour. That's all I've ever done. Just make sure you have enough on there and it'll stick very well. Overall, the best advice I can give you is not to rush things. Just start with one piece at a time, take your time and try not to get stressed out. It's supposed to be fun!

I've only got a squirrel fan in my helmet. I bought one of MonCal's hollow snouts, drilled it out and drilled a hole in my face plate. Hooked the fan up so the duct points upwards. Aside from giving me a bit of noise when my mic is close (which is always), it works well.

I'd like to see how your pull compares to some of the other knee armour out there. Looks really good!

Out of curiosity, how big will your new one be? By that, I mean will it be actual size or will it be a bit bigger like some of the other foam blasters? BTW, the pics look great so far!

Andrew AInsworth, the guy who pulled the original stormtrooper helmets and armour (as well as a few other suits.) I'd be curious if he was because they weren't originally pulled in the UK. If he was, he'd be making one from scratch.