Dart

So you know, you don't have to use a flight suit. I've got the same issue as yourself and I find it's easier to just get a set of coveralls in a long size. Black should be easy enough to find and if you're lucky, you won't have many zips and pockets to cover up/remove. Only downside is that some coveralls are made from a thicker material, but if you're crafty you can cut some strategically hidden vents in the chest/back to help in that department.

I hear ya about the KS build. I paid extra to have it assembled and when I got it, I got all ADD and took it apart because of some minor stuff I wanted to change. Then it sat for 2 months. I was afraid of it. Just go slow and remember that the top of the dome, when attached to the wrap around bit, should be parallel with the bottom edge (ie. when you put the bucket upside-down on a table, the bottom edge should be level with the table top). You may end up having to heat and pull in the sides of the helmet. I did. I just tied some twine through the earholes, tightened the twine and then heated it and let it set. Did that until everything kept it's place. As for the visor and faceplate, just go slow. Trim and test until you get it right. Usually, the angle of the edge of the visor continues with the bottom of the faceplate. The groove in the side of the visor should match up with the top of the ear hole. If you don't want to use glue, get some 3M indoor/outdoor mounting tape. It's a really great double-sided foam tape that is much easier and cleaner to work with than glue.

Agreed. Plus, I already glued mine on with the indent downwards. As has been stated, perhaps just having the greeb on the correct side (orientation to be decided by the owner) would be enough? There's clearly enough evidence to support both orientations.

For the knee elastic, the stuff that MonCal sends is perfect for the main strap. I still like having some velcro on the inside anyway.

Looks good. Boots look like they're coming along nicely.

You shouldn't have to worry about dying the cuffs. Unless they're not covered by the gloves, I wouldn't bother. As for the return edge, you don't have to have it and since you've already cut it, I'd just leave it. Less work to do with painting, etc...

Sticky velcro could work well, especially if you plan on moving them around.

You can always put a return edge by using a craft iron and a bit of an old sock. That'll help with the look if you care to do it. It's not that hard as long as you take your time.

Just was watching ROTJ on Spike tonight and I think if we can get another high rez shot of the scout that gets ambushed at the bunker (perfect back shot), maybe we could get an even better view of the greeb?

So we're going with cylinder in, notched edge up? Guess I'll have to re-glue mine, hahaha!

As far as the orientation, we've got two bits of proof how it's supposed to look like (cylinder on left, smooth top edge and indented lower edge). Now it's just a question of seeing a grab from the actual movie. I personally think we've got it right and I've already changed over to the new greeb. MC's got a point but we've also seen so many pieces that have been reused that it's not impossible that it was also used on the TB TD. Both of the above shots are also from ROTJ. Coincidence?

Just go slow and make sure you have a couple of nice, sharp bits. Alice clips are usually made from spring steel so they're extremely resilient. As for the torque setting, put it to the max setting, push down on the drill and don't go too fast. Good luck!

Wow! That's some fine quality woodworking there.

Yes. It really all depends on how much work you want to put into it, what your budget is and what fits your body best. Flight suits tend to be on the baggy side and typically, have many zippers and things that need to be removed. They're usually made from a thinner material. Coveralls (what I use), if fitted correctly, just need a few pockets removed and a mandarin collar attached. Racing suits are the easiest to modify but they tend to be more expensive and, depending on the material they're made from, warmer. So it really depends on what you can get and how much you have to spend. They're all acceptable as long as they've got a mandarin collar with neck closure and no exposed pockets.

You're right. As far as I know, it's supposed to be 3/4" elastic. That's what I got with my MC kit.

Congrats on the new position!

I'd have to agree with this. When the TD is flipped 180*, the split should be facing down. It's a really nice lookin' greeb, though. I just might have to pick one up for my MC kit. (EDIT: I just had to pick one up, hahaha! Can't wait to get it! I am SO weak...)

They're about true to size. I've got 2 pairs of XL gloves and that's what I usually wear (size 11/XL). Great gloves and they wear really nicely.

I hope it's not gonna be as expensive as some of their other buckets. Yes, the lineage is amazing, but I just hope it's not ridiculous. That said, I'm saving up for one right now.

I use something similar to this:http://www.reebokhockey.com/gear/products/player/accessories/product/5k-backpack/ only it has a few more pockets on it, kinda like this:http://www.reebokhockey.com/gear/products/player/accessories/product/10k-wheeled-backpack/. That it can roll and can be carried on my back has come in very handy and I've taken this on the subway many times.

What you said in your first post was dead on. Just using the plastic bolts works fine. I've never had any major issue with my KS. Occasionally, I think to tighten them up but that's about it.

Nice work! Looks really good!

What was your recipe for the putty? (1:1, 2:1, 2 fingers of acetone and a buncha plastic?)

Same. I just routed the wire through my suit and through a small hole on the back of the left pouch. Works great, easy to get to and no feedback.

How's it like wearing that headband with the holes all matching up?