Dart

That's one nice thing we've got going for us TB's. I know a few TK's who have issues with some armour that have a slight blue tinge and some that have a slight pink tinge.

No problemo, John. Take your time. As for the thickness, 2mm is damn thick but I'd rather have a thicker dome than one that's flimsy. We don't need to recreate the helmet quite that much. Just keep us in the loop and excuse our gawking and drooling over whatever pics you post, hahaha!

Either of those would work. Have you tried hitting your local walmart or payless? You can get similar boots for much less.

I just took some white craft foam that I had lying around and built boxes with an open top. Sized them so they were about 1/4" or so smaller than the dimensions of the pouch and slid 'em in. Works a treat. Nice and light and gives you good shape. I used goop on the edges and then I reinforced it all with some white duct tape.

Last I recall, there are a few lancers with KS armour. I think they tweaked the armour a bit to make it look a bit more accurate.

GOOP and E6000 are virtually identical. Go with whichever you can find. I used E6000 but I've also used GOOP. They smell exactly the same...

To echo what Marcel said, you want the boots to be just below your knee armour. That's all dependent on your height. That's one of the inherent flaws of the CA boots.

Nice! What's it weigh? You mentioned that it's about the same size as the original... guessing it's a bit bigger? If it's no trouble, could you put up a couple of photos against a ruler?

I'd lengthen the snout upwards. Too much of a gap between the top of the snout and the bottom of the lens. Also, the top of the helmet is fairly flat with just a curved edge as you've already shown.

THat's actually pretty cool. How does it compare to one of the non-electronic blasters in size?

Looks good. A few things I noticed - - the bottom corners on the visor look a bit too sharp. - the snout might need to be a bit longer. Looking from the side, the chin of the faceplate should angle down a bit more. However, it could just be the angle on the helmet stand that's making it look that way... - the ear holes should have sharper corners on the inside (against the helmet), like a "D". - the vent holes in the back.

The thing about the rubber boots is that they're the wrong shape. They'll still look like rubber boots whether you cover them with marine vinyl or not. AFAIK, they're not allowed. Check your local discount shoe stores. Look for the cheap hikers (as in the boot tutorial) and pick up the ones that have the most tan/wheat colouring in the sole. Worst comes to worse, you save a few more pennies and hit up either Witness or Marcel for some boots.

Congrats on the achievement!

I'll second Niko's blasters. They're durable and very nicely done. Worth the cash, IMO.

A canon event is any event that involves LFL. If we're repping for them, it's canon. Automatically. Every time. The only other time an event is canon is either because your CO tells you so or it's requested by the event planner. So the vast majority of your events will probably be non-canon. If your CO doesn't like you toting the DLT, they'll probably tell ya.

You should still be able to finish this one. You haven't made any big holes where you can't hide 'em.

Not too bad. Make sure you get a nice clean line around the lens area. I'm almost a little concerned that you might've trimmed too much from the wrap-around bit of the helmet. Make sure you check out the screen-used bucket for how it's supposed to look. There's also a thread in the Helmet forum that's all about assembling a KS bucket. Good luck!

Ideally, the belt should be right at the bottom edge of the 'bund. I used 3 chunks of velcro on my inner nylon belt to stick it to my 'bund. Doesn't move an inch.

There's nothing specifically worded in the Lancer requirements that says you can't use the MC clips or that they have to be completely hidden.

Hi there, If you're doing a Shadow Scout, your best resource is actually the 501st Spec Ops Detatchment.

Congrats on the Lancer-ing!

Shoulder bells should sit about level with the tops of the shoulder straps. I usually line up the bottoms of my bells just a bit above my flak vest sleeves and then stick it all down with velcro.

Heh, you're in the right section this time. Ideally, you'd want to get a vinyl that's much smoother than the one you seem to be using. However, if that's all you can get your hands on, then it'll probably be fine. You want to really stretch that toe bit. Don't rush it. Give it lots of heat and pin the crap outta it until you've got it so it's totally conforming to the boot but it's not so tight you can't slip your foot in the boot.

It's a good point to mention. I've got velcro on pretty much all my armour bits. So much more comfortable when they're held in place.

A flight suit is better than a wetsuit. The idea is that it shouldn't be baggy but it shouldn't be skin-tight. It should fit like a regular pair of pants and shirt. While modern motorcycle suits are not really suitable, some folks (lancers included) wear auto racing suits. Some of us wear coveralls. Ultimately, get what fits you best, is the correct size and lets you sit comfortably.