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Dart

Executive Office
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Everything posted by Dart

  1. Actually, the number is closer to 38mm (1.5"), but 40mm will also work.
  2. The larger armour is definitely KS, but the details aren't so great. I can't verify this first hand, but I've heard that SC is a bit more versatile for the larger scouts.
  3. The biggest problem with epoxy is that it dries hard. You're better off with E6000 as it's flexible and much more forgiving to work with, as stated above.
  4. Same here. I wear glasses in my KS with no issues. Plenty of room and I have a 23.5"-24" brain pan.
  5. You'll need to move the pouches out. They should be on either side of the ribs stitched into the 'bund. Also, you might wanna switch them around. The undersuit around the tops of the boots look a little baggy - you might consider sewing an elastic strap to make sure they stay tucked into the boots.
  6. I had mine made from scratch. A little Filipino lady (who looked an awful lot like Yoda... seriously) copied another set of coveralls I had. Best advice: find a cheap pair of coveralls that fit. If you, or someone you know are decent at sewing, they should be able to figure out a pattern from it all. Worst comes to worse, you can rip the cheap coveralls apart and, *voila*, you have a pattern. BTW, most military flight suits are made of Nomex, a fire-retarding material. It doesn't dye well at all because it's made from mostly synthetic materials like Rayon. If you must dye fabric, 100% Cotton or 50/50 Poly/Cotton blend are your friends.
  7. I'm not totally sure about that sizing. I know that I used 1/8" rivets for my boots and other parts. (1/8" referring to the hole size, not the outer edges of the rivet).
  8. The best advice I can give you is to just get it cleared. Lancer status is just that - a little icon on a single message board. Get your build done to the 501st standard and if you feel like bumping it to a higher level, you can always do it later. If you feel like giving yourself a break from the build, do it. The scout is a deceptive costume in that it's more difficult than some think. Maybe you just need to recharge your batteries. We're not going anywhere and unless you sell your outfit, it's not going anywhere. If you want some advice, put it all on, take some photos and let us give you some feedback. At least you'll have someone outside your own head's opinion and maybe that'll help.
  9. You're probably fine with the first one. It looks reasonably close and, to be honest, I don't think anyone would even spot the difference.
  10. What ^^he^^ said. You're looking for pop rivets, not the type you need a hammer to compress together.
  11. YUSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!! So happy to hear they'll be doing a kit version! I have no doubt it'll be great and you'd better believe I'm gonna get one when I scratch the cash together (whatever the cost). *happy dance*
  12. Also, be sure that your cummerbund doesn't go too low. The bottom edge should ideally sit at the top of your hip, right where your belt should also sit. Don't wanna have 'bund showing below the belt.
  13. If you need a bigger one, the MLC will be about the same size. Bigger means going to a KS or LW (if you can get one).
  14. Same. I used a Tamiya primer. If you must paint it, go with a matte light grey.
  15. I've got a nice, big swath of velcro on my shoulders (closer to the top). My only beef is that occasionally, if I move my arms higher, I hear the "ripping" sound of velcro. Next vest I make will not have velcro as I'm going to the strap method.
  16. To echo what Patrik mentioned, be sure that the 'bund doesn't extend past the bottom of the belt. The best way I've figured to measure the 'bund is to sit down and measure from the top of the hip bone (ideally where the belt sits) and then taper it to fit you. If you already have your armour, assemble your belt and see where it sits on your hips when you sit. Just make sure that the back has the 2" velcro strip right in the middle and going straight up and down. It really doesn't need to be square but it does need to fit you and not look baggy or otherwise sloppy. Also, make sure you give some allowance for the batting as that can affect your measurements.
  17. Hi Kirby, While I'm no Lancer, if that's what you're going for, check out the metal clips (that might eventually become available again) here - http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=12263 You might be able to get by with another type of metal clip. Can't seem to find the post, but if I do, I'll update this one.
  18. Actually, they were painted (Ferrari White). That said, some good advice above. A little goes a long way.
  19. Looks pretty good. A few things I noticed: - you need the greeblies for the thermal detonator. - you could consider adding the second strap to the knee - you need the stripes on the tank - can't tell from the photos, but did you paint in the grey line on the chest plate?
  20. Still waiting on the eFX buckets. Possible delivery by July. As for the RS Props helmet, who knows, but anything's possible, ha!
  21. There's also the option of a 2 piece shirt and pant combo (matching fabric). If you don't care about going Lancer, it makes life easier for the ladies when, *ahem* nature calls.
  22. Dart

    hi guys.

    Welcome to the good ship BS.N! Actually, lots of stuff happens in the UK. They have one of the larger and more active garrisons in the legion. I'm sure one of the locals will chime in and give you the dealio. SC is a good armour choice. The helmet really depends on how big your head measures. If you search around, you might notice that there's a bit more sizing variance with helmets. Anyway, be a sponge and soak up all the info.
  23. Looks good! At first glance, I can only suggest that you raise those hip/drop boxes up. They should rest right about where the pocket on your jeans are (if you were wearing jeans, ha!) You might also consider pulling those biceps up a bit if they're hitting your elbow. Are you using any velcro on your jumpsuit to help keep parts in the right spot?
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