Dart

The diameter of the square should be a hair over 1/2". Drill a 1/2" hole and push the bolt through. It'll stay in place with friction.

Considering it's 2:20am where I type, I think it looks about right. When the jumpsuit is worn, the outer edge of the riding patch should hit about halfway across the front of your thigh. The only thing I'd *possibly* consider changing is to round out the bottom like you have at the top. Too hard of a corner there.

Ok, so the deal with the neck seal is that it wasn't worn by all the scouts. Much to our chagrin, they weren't very consistent with what was worn, and this is an example. IF one was to wear a neck seal as a scout, you wouldn't wear a regular TK neck seal. The scout one had fewer ribs and no piping in the loops. That said, it's only ever seen once in the movies and none of the other scouts are wearing it. I honestly wouldn't bother with it.

The 2" black elastic should go over the mudflap. It keeps it from flapping around.

I wore glasses in my KS with no problems. I think it's only an issue if you really fill up the helmet.

Another thing to mention is that you don't have to cut really deep. Save yourself some agony and keep it between 1/16" and 1/8" max. Some folks go really deep, but it's just not necessary.

Welcome aboard! Lots of things to read so have fun! If you have any questions that you can't find answers to, let us know!

So far, so good. I was just gonna say that you don't need to cut really deep. The actual boots were only about 1/16" deep at that point (based off my measurements of Sierra Sneakers IV).

FYI, the Hi-Tecs run a bit small. A buddy had some size 13's in camo and when I wore them they were really short.

That's actually a low price for that helmet. LW helmets are truly the best fan-sculpted helmets around, but they're really hard to get. I'm actually waiting on RS props to reopen their list as I'd love to have one.

1.5" is the correct size. 1" is way too small.

Sounds like you're well on your way!

From what we know, if the Star Wars Costumes books is accurate, is that the 'bund and the flak vest were made from the same polished cotton. We know all the materials for ROTJ were dyed too. That said, finding polished cotton is near impossible for most people. I've got some left over from my late aunt but it's too thin to use for a 'bund. What I've been using is actually a heavy dull satin. I use the inside of the material, not the shiny outside. Since it's cotton, it'll breathe and it has that sheen without being too shiny. It also wrinkles like the originals. I'll eventually make myself a more accurate 'bund, but I'll do it again with the satin. Plus, I can wash it with no issue when it gets stank.

Honestly, I think you'd do better by making the pouches a bit thinner. I know the standard we've all known is roughly 7 x 6 x 2.25 inches, but I think it's likely that the pouches were closer to 6 x 5.5 x 1.75 inches. I think you're on the right track, though. Keep it up!

Yup, they look good. I'd clear 'em.

To add to Tim's reply, the 2" webbing is the bright white nylon webbing and the 1.5" drop box webbing is cotton.

Well spoke... err... typed! Ya did what you could and things still ended up ok. See ya at Celebration - first beer's on me.

If you're doing off white pouches, you really should be doing off white belt webbing (not the wide stuff that holds up the belt, the 1.5" hip box webbing).

The originals were all white but tea stained and weathered once the Death Star bit was filmed. Making them out of natural coloured canvas is the easy way to get a similar effect. I'm actually in the process of redoing my pouches, but I think I'll try doing them in white and seeing how they look tea stained.

Hi Sebastien, It's actually more of a "wheat" or "tan" colour. Mustard is too yellow. Also, see if you can get the boots with soles already in that colour - just makes things easier.

I once found some white leather that would've been perfect for the boots... but it was severely yellowed and the pieces were just a touch too small to do the barrel of the boots in a single piece. If I had to guess at weight, we're looking at something in the 2-4 oz range. Finish... dunno. It's hard to find leather that has that minimal a grain to it that isn't patent leather.

The other issue is durability. Even if you print it with ABS, it's not really the same strength as a sheet of vac-formed ABS. Even though there isn't a ton of armour, it's located at bendy points and gets stressed and eventually cracked. If you can find an approvable design, that'd be sweet!

The KS helmet isn't too bad to assemble, just take your time. There's a few spots that need some tlc (the wrap around may need to be heated and bent in a bit to keep its shape, and the stickers are meh). I'd strongly suggest you do not use glue to assemble the helmet. Years ago, I stuck mine together with some 3M indoor/outdoor foam tape. It's sticks like crazy once it cures but it gives you a bit of wiggle room if you need to rip it off and try again.

Lookin' good!

If you're replacing the chest, you'll likely have to replace the back as well. Some armour you can mix and match, but I'm not sure a KS back will match up with as SC chest.