Lancer Build Tutorial

[Aliaz]

 

Two layers as shown here in the cutout template:

 

http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=17305&view=findpost&p=155978

Thanks! I really should have spotted that 2x in the template

[Budy]

Awesome tutorial,

 

Thanks

 

 

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[Aliaz]

As far as I know the wider strap is at the bottom. Never seen a picture of the straps reversed.

[Chopper]

From the Lancer standards:

 

"Knee armor to have two elastic straps , one passing through the knee armor 20mm (5/8") wide on the bottom and one 12mm (1/2") fixed to the top sides of the knee armor with one silver rivet each side."

 

http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=15994

 

 

[Chopper]

Shoot, I forgot that you don't get access to the Lancer section until 501st approval. Sorry.

 

Probably some drifting happened with keeping multiple copies available for everyone. I know for my Lancer approval it was 1/2" on the top of the knee and 5/8" on the bottom.

 

If you don't hear anything back in this thread, you could always mention it in the "ask an armorer thread".

[762s]

Shoot, I forgot that you don't get access to the Lancer section until 501st approval. Sorry.

 

Probably some drifting happened with keeping multiple copies available for everyone. I know for my Lancer approval it was 1/2" on the top of the knee and 5/8" on the bottom.

 

If you don't hear anything back in this thread, you could always mention it in the "ask an armorer thread".

 

i may go ahead and do that anyways to get the issue fixed and in the spotlight of the powers that be

 

thanks again man!

[Strider]

Hi guys, the info in this thread is correct, the lower knee guard strap has a 20mm witdh and the upper a 12mm width. We're currently upgrading/harmonizing all the info out there.

 

Cheers

[Griffin-X]

The issue has been corrected. Thanks for pointing it out to us.

[Strider]

The Boots

 

While this isn't a full blown tutorial about making the boot (I would still point towards the excellent build tutorial from Pandatrooper in this regard >>> http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9781&view=findpost&p=92449) it's just to show how to assemble the holster and attach it to the boot.

 

 

 

 

I start by cutting a slit on the part that attaches to the boots about 0,4-0,5cm from the edge almost from top to bottom (see picture) so that the other part can slide into it (no glueing required here).

 

From the other part the horizontal slits are cut out as well. To make both cuts above I'm using this dremel tool here >>>

 

 

Once I've done that I slide the upper part into the holster and determine the position where to glue the front part (again, see pics for reference). In order to glue the front part I'm using a piece of scrap ABS which is formed to about an L-shape (using a heat gun and something to bend it over with to get a straight line). You have to make sure that the scrap plastic has the right shape so that it touches both the parts and the glue gets enough "meat" to stick on. I like to use super glue because it works much faster than e6000 and I can just hold it while it dries (you can use any glue but clamping that particular area is a bit tricky).

 

When the holster itself is assembled 4 holes are drilled near the edges to attach the rivets (the holster is just riveted to the boot, no further glueing). Vice versa 4 holes are punched or drilled into the boot where the holster is to sit (make sure you attach it to the correct boot. In all that excitement I messed that up the first time, haha.)

 

Any questions just let me know.

 

Cheers

[Strider]

While I was taking some new CRL pics I thought it would be fun to replicate the well-known bikerscout pose from Star Wars Costumes book Many thanks to my buddy Alex (OpiWan) for bearing with me during the shot!

 

[Aliaz]

That's awesome! I have to do that next time I suit up

[3DImpact]

So here's a question that has finally come up in my mind as I'm actually assembling things finally - is there a standard for the various rivets that are used in a few places? Like the attach points for the 2-inch webbing for the belt, the 12 mm elastic for the knee guards, the holster attachment to the boots. There are various size rivets that seem better matched in some instances (maybe 1/8-inch for the small knee elastic) than in others (3/16 maybe for the heavy-duty attachment of the boot holster)...

 

Dan

[Strider]

So here's a question that has finally come up in my mind as I'm actually assembling things finally - is there a standard for the various rivets that are used in a few places? Like the attach points for the 2-inch webbing for the belt, the 12 mm elastic for the knee guards, the holster attachment to the boots. There are various size rivets that seem better matched in some instances (maybe 1/8-inch for the small knee elastic) than in others (3/16 maybe for the heavy-duty attachment of the boot holster)...

 

Dan

 

No, there are no given standards at the moment other than use rivets of the appropriate size. The standard size rivet I use is 3,2 but that is only the witdth of the pin not the head that is visible. In regard to the "appropriate" size I go by just eyeballing the sizes from original pics and make sure they're in the same ballpark.

[3DImpact]

No, there are no given standards at the moment other than use rivets of the appropriate size. The standard size rivet I use is 3,2 but that is only the witdth of the pin not the head that is visible. In regard to the "appropriate" size I go by just eyeballing the sizes from original pics and make sure they're in the same ballpark.

 

Great, thanks - sounds like the approach I was planning on in the absence of standards.

 

Dan

[Aliaz]

During a Quick photoshoot I Tried my best to match the pose from the Costumes book aswell.

[Strider]

Hey, good job! We should call out a contest ;-)

[HyBRiD]

May I ask about the garden hose 1-3/8” correct?

[Stroker]

6 minutes ago, HyBRiD said:

May I ask about the garden hose 1-3/8” correct?

That's what I used. You can look through my Lancer app and see how it turned out.

[HyBRiD]

Thanks. I’m not well versed with inches ?

[Ketchup]

Thanks for this thread! I've been reading up on Lancer standards, since they've changed a bit since I first started building. This is very helpful to get back up to speed!

[sibbel29]

Thanks. I’m not well versed with inches ?

1 3/8 inch is 3,5 cm


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[sibbel29]

hey buddy, can you post a pic of the topside of your boxes? I am curious how the curved shape looks like. thanks bro!

[BuckeyeTK]

6 hours ago, sibbel29 said:

hey buddy, can you post a pic of the topside of your boxes? I am curious how the curved shape looks like. thanks bro!

I don’t have any pictures of the boxes on my phone currently. Unfortunately my Scout is at my storage garage at the moment. I would be happy to take a picture for you as soon as I have time to make a trip over there. I will try and do it sometime this weekend or next if I am able. 

[Brasidas76]

This thread is fantastic! I have a couple of questions though. I've just started 3D printing a helmet and have recently downloaded the armour files posted on Thingiverse by Mr.Poopie. He appears to be a genuine Lancer as I've seen him on this site, but I was wondering if any of you know for sure that his printable files are indeed Lancer quality? I'd like to know before I go through the many hours of printing and finishing them.

I was also wondering about the backpack hump. In the thread above there's some discussion about it being a separate piece and whether or not it should have the black strap. If I do 3D print my armour, it's going to be a little heavier than vacu-formed pieces, so it may be necessary to glue it to the back-plate. If I do that but leave a visable seam, and fake the strap, would it still be considered Lancer quality?

Ok, last question lol What would be considered the perfect sizing for the snout greeblies on the helmet?

Thanks in advance everyone.

[762s]

On 1/15/2019 at 3:10 PM, Brasidas76 said:

This thread is fantastic! I have a couple of questions though. I've just started 3D printing a helmet and have recently downloaded the armour files posted on Thingiverse by Mr.Poopie. He appears to be a genuine Lancer as I've seen him on this site, but I was wondering if any of you know for sure that his printable files are indeed Lancer quality? I'd like to know before I go through the many hours of printing and finishing them.

I was also wondering about the backpack hump. In the thread above there's some discussion about it being a separate piece and whether or not it should have the black strap. If I do 3D print my armour, it's going to be a little heavier than vacu-formed pieces, so it may be necessary to glue it to the back-plate. If I do that but leave a visable seam, and fake the strap, would it still be considered Lancer quality?

Ok, last question lol What would be considered the perfect sizing for the snout greeblies on the helmet?

Thanks in advance everyone.

@MrPoopie care to input on your armor?  have you printed it?

imo, his armor looks just fine for lancer ... 

and about the elastic strap on the back tank.  sure, you can glue the tank to the back armor and add the elastic strap. it just has to look the part.  like you said leave a visible seam.
alot of people use an "L" bracket at the top of the tank to secure the tank to the back armor.  im sure you could do the same with the 3D print.

perfect sizing for the snout greeblies?
this is a tough one to answer as all manufactures snout are slightly different.

screen used snouts are roughly on a 1/8" thick baseplate being 1 1/16" wide X 3 15/16" tall ... round faucet nozzle is 3/4", engine block is 1 3/8" tall. top of snout to the first line is 1 7/16" witha 1/4" gap from the line to the top of the engine block.   would you like a diagram?