MrPoopie

Each side (left and right) have 2 pieces which when glued together equal 48cm. The section with the holes will be facing the front of the body and the holes are for attaching the triangular sections. The picture of the model (in purple) that you see above is of the left side of the abs. The right side would be a mirror copy. If you look closely just to the left and right of the back plate you can see the seam where the pieces are glued together.

You can see the image below. there are 2 sections on either side of the back plate. The whole bund zips in the front behind the front ab plate. There are also a couple of shoulder straps to keep everything in place. If you look you can see the seam between each of the printed sections. The extra space on the bottom has velcro which is where the belts attaches.

Thanks. I might update my files to reflect this change. Any way to help minimize post processing on TPU is good.

If you know how much more length you need I can easily adjust the models to extend them for your size while keeping the scale correct.

There are 2 TPU Ab panels per side. They don't meet up in the back and are covered by the back ab armor section. The front also has the front ab section. The larger TPU section is 25.1cm x 22cm and the smaller section is 22.9cm x 22cm

Got some more work done this weekend. Pouches The Pouches are complete and I was also able to get the snap tape added to the trousers belt. The trouser belt will be hidden underneath the armor belt. I was originally hoping that these pouches would be the same size as the ROTJ Scout pouches but alas these pouches were 8.5"H x 7"W x 2"D. These pouches were a bit of a headache to figure out how to make the small side triangle work properly. It seems easy but in reality remembering which flap connects to what and also which side the velcro strips need to go on is a lot to figure out at first. When you build pouches you build them inside out and then flip everything so that the seams and selvage are not visible afterwards. This can be a bit confusing when building something for the first time. At least it's done now. Pattern for main pouch body. Pattern for pouch front flap. Pattern for pouch back attachment flap. Attachment flap with snap tape to connect to the Tassets. Attachment flap and front flap pinned to the main body of the pouch ready to be sewn together. Another picture of the arrangement before sewing. After sewing the 3 parts together as well as a closer detail of the side triangle piece on the front flap. And the backside with the snap tape. It can be difficult to see what's going on here. The finished pouches. Now a couple of pictures of the completed snap tape on the trouser belt where the Tassets will connect to. Test fitting after the Tassets, Pouches and trouser belt were completed. The pouches still need some foam or filler to give them some body but that's an easy fix for later.

I was also able to finish my Tassets today. They have snap tape on the reverse sides to attach to the belt on the trousers. There is also more snap tape on the front where the Pouches will attach. Snap tape is very strong but also allows things to be removed for cleaning. I have an aversion to velcro and try to only use it where it's absolutely necessary. Tassets For each Tasset I cut out 2 pieces of white canvas duck cloth. I had to extend the pattern out about 2.5" since my original pattern was cut too short. I also cut to 2 layers of medium weight batting to fill out the tassets as well as help with the top detail stitching which comes later. I pinned everything together on the sides in preparation for sewing. Remember that everything is sewn inside out so that it can be flipped and the seams and selvage will be on the inside. I almost forgot to sew the snap tape on before sewing the Tassets together. The longer snap tape sections will attach to the belt. The short snap tape is for the Pouches. After sewing the edges you need to cut away as much of the extra batting as possible without cutting into the stitches. This will help a lot when you turn everything inside out so that there isn't a load of bunched up material on the seam. You should also clip your corners. This also helps to create sharper corners when flipped inside out. I now needed to add the detail stitching. The horizontally placed pins help me line up a ruler when sewing to keep as straight a line as possible. It can be a little tricky to get this right. You can see that this is the front of the Tassets because of the short snap tape. Finished detail work. Left side Front. Left side back. There will be more pics once I get them attached to the belt and get the Pouches finished.

A couple of updates. I got my trousers in a few weeks back from another helpful Trooper. They were originally made for a Tanker but they're the same for the Mountain Trooper. The trousers were little large around the waist for me so I added a couple of pleats and a set of belt loops. My plan is to have the Tassets and Pouches attached to the belt using snap tape so that I can get some of the weight on my hips instead of everything on my shoulders. The pleats will be hidden by the Tassets so I'm not worried about the them showing. Trousers

Agreed. My helmet does touch the tip of my nose once it's on. I have a fairly tall head and a large nose.

I may have printed my own armor files but I went with Troy's helmet. It's great quality for the details and wearability. I also have his Mountain Trooper which I'm currently working on.

The CRL does not require it. The shirt in the CRL is from ArmoryShop and they took liberties with some things which we originally did not have enough detailed images for. This means that either a ribbed or smooth collar is acceptable.its very difficult to see once the helmet is on anyway. For reference the Hot Toys model has a smooth to collar.

The TPU ab sections are velcro backed and they stick to the inner bund via velcro sewn on. I also have suspenders attached directly to the bund to keep everything in place. I will say that I do geta bit of a shoulder ache after about an hour when suited up because of the weight of the abs, belt, chest and back. All the 3D printed material weight really adds up and can be a little heavy. When I designed my Mountain Trooper files after this one I learned a few things about how to cut down weight and mount the internal bund to the undershirt directly instead of using suspender straps which can cut into my shoulders causing the aches. I'm currently in the middle of that build and will be posting pictures soon of what I'm talking about.

It's been a busy day at work otherwise I would have gotten back to you guys sooner. I used a combination of 2 fabrics. The first was a ribbed pleather (faux leather) sold by JoAnn's Fabrics (US) and it was a part of their Yaya Han cosplay line. Sadly this fabric is not sold anymore. The other fabric is a smooth black pleather (faux leather) which was used for the main body as well as the sections between the ribbing on the sleeves. Before using the ribbed fabric I did some tests with the smooth pleather to see if I could have a go at making ribbing myself. It's totally possible although it's tedious and can be pretty frustrating. Basically what you need is pleather as well as a mid-weight backer fabric and piping cord. I also used a special foot for my sewing machine that helps hold everything in place when making ribs. All this being said, I do still have 2 yards of the ribbed pleather that would be enough to make 2 sets of sleeves. I'm willing to sell this off if anyone is interested. It's not cheap fabric though at about $35/yd. You would still need to get smooth pleather for the main body. Depending on how you cut everything and how long your arms are you might have enough to do the ribbing for the neck seal as well. If not, the neck seal is a pretty easy thing to make without ribbed fabric.

Can you turn the vest inside out and take a picture? We're trying to see if the sleeves are padded or just have sewn on ribbing directly onto the fabric by itself.