FarEast Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 How are the two side containers connecting to the 50mm webbing belt at the back, behind the thermal detonator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSM76 Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 I think it is not clear how it was done originally, but most likely it is sewn to the belt. Since it is hidden behind the thermal detonator, it is up to you.I have attached it via velcro to the belt: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stroker Posted May 5, 2020 Share Posted May 5, 2020 From the costume book it looks to be rivets attaching the box strapping to the main belt. I had originally sewn mine,but later went back and added the rivets. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth Chridan Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Hey, on my belt I had attached it inside with press buttons. On 5/5/2020 at 10:49 AM, FarEast said: How are the two side containers connecting to the 50mm webbing belt at the back, behind the thermal detonator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MandoScoutQC Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 Question about the belt. When i look at all reference pics it looks like it's trimmed really up against each box correct? Then i guess you can sand it down a bit inwards to have a nice finish? My only issue is that I find that the one i have doesn't have every piece at exactly the same height (wtf). Maybe it's my eyes playing tricks on me but i'm worried it won't look perfectly straight. Or is that normal considering the strapping will hide it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 I recall the WTF belt as being relatively straight. If you could please show us a photo of your belt, that would help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MandoScoutQC Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 The box in the middle is slightly higher than the ones on either side. Maybe I’m just nitpicking but I just want to make sure I’m doing the final trimming correctly.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 I think that the unevenness that you're seeing won't be noticeable once you curve the belt to your body. You should be able to sand the cut lines flush with the boxes on a belt sander if you have one, or otherwise using a long sanding block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MandoScoutQC Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 Ya that's what i thought. I sanded it closer to the boxes and it's really not as obvious. Especially when it's curved as well. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toothdoc Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 Very interesting thread! I have a question on the best way to attach the 1/2” elastic strap to the shoulder bells around the bicep? At he lower corners, add a velcro loop patch and make a strap with Velcro hook patches at both ends? Or, a plastic retainer clip in the center of the lower aspect of the shoulder bell, holding a long loop of elastic sewn together? I have SC armor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troygordon2 Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 I went this route. I haven't submitted for Lancer yet, I forgot that strap on the tank of the back plate, but will probably get a new rear, hump, and cover to update my build as everything else I did was to Lancer spec (I think). I found that the adhesive on the little square things wasn't nearly as strong as it should be, while the velcro was more than capable of holding onto the plastic. I sewed on velcro to the square zip tie thingies with some tough upholstery thread so there is a velcro to velcro contact on both ends. It's ever so slightly offset, but you'd never notice it with all the black going on up there. Just trimmed off an additional female end of the zip, trimmed it smooth, and loaded it in to keep the high shoulder part in place. You can add a dab of glue down the bell side of the strip to hold it in place too, though I wouldn't recommend epoxy as it cracks, I'd go with the E600 stuff or just some high temp hot glue. Or wrap it in some white hockey tape, which is amazing stuff to have on hand for a variety of things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 17 hours ago, Toothdoc said: Very interesting thread! I have a question on the best way to attach the 1/2” elastic strap to the shoulder bells around the bicep? At he lower corners, add a velcro loop patch and make a strap with Velcro hook patches at both ends? Or, a plastic retainer clip in the center of the lower aspect of the shoulder bell, holding a long loop of elastic sewn together? I have SC armor. I personally used the velcro method for attaching the elastic to my shoulder bells. Because the strapping is fairly narrow and doesn't provide a lot of contact area, I sewed a larger velcro swatch onto each end of the elastic. You can't see it once the strapping is secured around your arm. You can see it in the photo below. Easy to attach. Easy to adjust. I believe @BikerScout007 uses an elastic loop for his shoulder bells. Either will work for Lancer, it's just a question of what works best for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerScout007 Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 I use a thin loop of 1/4 inch elastic attached to a ziptie anchor that wraps around my armpits to hold the bell in place. From what I can tell, that's how it was done in the film. However, I've tried to set up my costume as a reasonable facsimile of how the film suits were built. This is not necessarily the best way to build a costume for the rigors of trooping. Do what works best for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troygordon2 Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 Wow...I need more coffee... Totally read that wrong. I went with Chopper's method as my bells are rarely removed from my chest and back plates and it keeps the drop the same each time I put it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Von Goodleef Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 On 6/24/2020 at 1:07 PM, Zeronin said: Question about the belt. When i look at all reference pics it looks like it's trimmed really up against each box correct? Then i guess you can sand it down a bit inwards to have a nice finish? My only issue is that I find that the one i have doesn't have every piece at exactly the same height (wtf). Maybe it's my eyes playing tricks on me but i'm worried it won't look perfectly straight. Or is that normal considering the strapping will hide it? I have a question regarding the plastic bellt part. How much of an edge on the end of the plastic part do you leave to be able to rivet to the cloth belt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerScout007 Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 1 hour ago, Alan Von Goodleef said: I have a question regarding the plastic bellt part. How much of an edge on the end of the plastic part do you leave to be able to rivet to the cloth belt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Von Goodleef Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 35 minutes ago, BikerScout007 said: It looks like about an inch. Maybe 3/4" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WilsonSith Posted April 4, 2021 Share Posted April 4, 2021 On 3/28/2017 at 12:49 AM, Strider said: 2. Making the pouches First off, I have to apologize if some of my descriptions below are a bit dodgy but explaining sewing wasn't really what I majored in, lol. Well, here we go: First fold the cotton fabric and use the templates (found on the bottom) to draw the cutting lines: After the templates have been cut out you should first sew on the velcro for the closure. Then the flap is sewed together and ironed afterwards. Remember that the outside of the flap are facing each other when they are sewed together. Next thing to be sewn are the hangers of the pouch (which will be sewn or velcroed to the cummerbund later on). Again the outsides are facing each other when sewn together and the top end is left open. The markings on the picture above show where the flap and the hanger are attached (by pins) and sewed. It’s approximately 5,6cm from the front sewing edge and 2cm from the upper edge. Please note that the flaps on the two pouches are inverted towards each other (see picture below). Subsequently the hangers are attatched (with the closed side) to the pouch and sewed to the back side of it. The back of the closing flap should overlap with the hanger by about 2 - 2,3cm. Last but not least the templates. The dimensions were modelled of from Gino's scout on the SWOC (which in turn were derived from the original templates). However, depending on your height and your armor you might want to adjust these measures. Link to Pouch template: https://bit.ly/2KQSl4t Hi Guys, checking in as I would want to scale it to my height, the above pouches are meant for individual of what height range if anyone would happen to know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted April 4, 2021 Share Posted April 4, 2021 2 hours ago, WilsonSith said: Hi Guys, checking in as I would want to scale it to my height, the above pouches are meant for individual of what height range if anyone would happen to know The 6 inches high x 5 inches wide x 2 inches deep pouch dimensions should fit a pretty wide variety of body sizes. Are you comfortable with sharing your height? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WilsonSith Posted April 4, 2021 Share Posted April 4, 2021 1 hour ago, Chopper said: The 6 inches high x 5 inches wide x 2 inches deep pouch dimensions should fit a pretty wide variety of body sizes. Are you comfortable with sharing your height? Sure thing, I'm 165cm or around 5'5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucasfan7 Posted April 4, 2021 Share Posted April 4, 2021 33 minutes ago, WilsonSith said: Sure thing, I'm 165cm or around 5'5 I’m interring this as well cause my wife is the same height and I would love to get her in a scout as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted April 4, 2021 Share Posted April 4, 2021 49 minutes ago, WilsonSith said: Sure thing, I'm 165cm or around 5'5 I think that at 5ft5 you shouldn't need to scale down your pouches. 6 inches high x 5 inches wide x 2 inches deep should fit the gap between your belt and chest armor. We've been seeing a lot of low hanging chest armor lately, so if you make sure that your chest armor is properly fitted, which means the gap between your chest armor and belt is around 6" ish inches, then they should fit fine. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Von Goodleef Posted April 12, 2021 Share Posted April 12, 2021 On 12/31/2017 at 1:57 PM, 762s said: well, chopper thanks for the link but, i dont have access to that link .. but, the main crl ... http://databank.501s...B_Scout_trooper and the lancer spec crl posted here ... http://forum.bikersc...showtopic=12081 both state the same: from the main crl: The first is 15mm (5/8") wide and passes through the bottom of the knee armor. The second is 20mm (3/4") wide and riveted to the top sides of the knee armor from the posted lancer crl: 11. Knee armor to have two elastic straps , one passing through the knee armor 20mm (5/8") wide on the bottom and one 20mm (3/4") fixed to the top sides of the knee armour with one silver rivet each side. trying to get my strapping figured out and ordered and things are fubar all the way around for us recruits can we get a fix ? please! I cannot find any 5/8 inch elastic anywhere😥 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheese Posted April 12, 2021 Share Posted April 12, 2021 Double check the CRL @Alan Von Goodleef. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Knee armor has two elastic straps: The upper strap is 12mm (1/2 inch) wide and is riveted to the top sides of the knee armor with two (2) 1/8th (3mm) silver-colored rivets. The lower strap may be 12mm (1/2 inch) or 20mm (3/4 inch) wide and passes through the lower sides of the knee armor. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted April 12, 2021 Share Posted April 12, 2021 Thank you, Cheese. Just a general reminder, folks, to please check anything from an older post against the current CRL: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TB_Scout_trooper Some standards may change in the CRL, so an older post may not always be 100% current. And if you do have questions -- feel free to reach out to one of your friendly armorers! 😁 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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