Aradun

Figured it out you did. It was worth the wait! Amazing job Christina. Glad to hear you are on the mend too.

You love doing it because when that kid’s eyes get wide with awe at the site of you, you know it was worth all the blood, sweat, and tears. You love it because when that guys asks you where you bought your costume and you grin from ear to ear under your bucket as you see his jaw drop when you tell him you made it. You love it because you’re making a difference raising money for charity dressed as the plastic spacemen you love. Hang in there trooper. You got this!

Once printed I coated everything but the grip in XTC-3D. I didn’t want the resin to fill in the grip details. I’m not sure I’m sold on this stuff, but it may be a lack of experience. I found it to get tacky way too quickly for my liking making it difficult to work with. Haven’t touched it since. Sanded any “runs” from the XTC-3D and used Wood Filler to fill in those deeper print lines. After sanding that I gave everything 2 coats of Primer Filler allowing for a day or two cure time between coats. Won’t bore you with photos of sanding, priming, filing, etc. We all know the drill here [emoji6]. The main body prints in two halves for the model so there’s a seam line that needs attention and work. The back half of the body also needs to be seamed and filled once attached as well. No big deal. Once everything was sanded, primed and ready to go, I gave all the pieces 2 - 3 coats of metallic paint as an undercoat. The only parts that did not get painted metallic were the Bakelite portion of the grip, the stock, and the cooling fins for the barrel. They were painted with 2 coats of semi-gloss black. Didn’t photo everything painted in this state but did get a pic of the barrel before hitting it with flat black. The metallic undercoat is for weathering. You could skip this and go right to black and then just dry brush your weathering, but this makes for a nice effect because like ST armor, using a little Maskol or Toothpaste will create a nice chipping effect, and scratches and dinks that happen naturally will reveal the metallic finish underneath as well. You can use some 400 Grit sandpaper to remove paint here and there along edges to also reveal the silver undercoat.

Alight Scouts, I dove in with both feet into the wonderful world of 3D printing in December by treating myself to a CR10 V2 printer and have printing like crazy multiple projects and lovin it! Here’s my take on the DLT-19X. Supply List: 3D Print: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3940279 XTC-3D Rust-Oleum Primer Filler: 2 Cans Rust-Oleum Metallic Paint: 1 Can Rust-Oleum Semi-Gloss Black: 1 Can Rust-Oleum Flat Black: 2 Cans Various Grades of Sandpaper 120 - 400 Grit Graphite Powder (4oz should do the trick) Maskol or Toothpaste (I went old school) Paintable Wood Filler 1/2”x1/8” round earth magnets (4) You’ll also need a wooden dowel and PVC pipe for the 3D Print, the former for rigidity and the latter for the inner barrel. Specs are in the files. This print is measured for metric which made finding US equivalents a bit challenging. The dowel is a slightly smaller diameter than what’s required but a little tape wrapped around it should tighten it up. For the barrel a 1/2 copper pipe is a perfect fit. Gives it a little weight too. Surfinbird132’s model can be printed with or without the bipod. You want to go without the bipod as the bipod is only used on the heavy blaster version of the DLT-19 and not the 19X Sniper Version. Here’s everything printed: Print Parameters: e-Sun PLA+ Nozzle: 210 Bed: 60 Fan: 100% Standard Print Setting with Brim and Tree Supports 20% cubic pattern in-fill Total Print Time: 6 days, 13 hours, 16 minutes Total Material: 1263 grams The grip was printed at dynamic setting with the same in-fill as above. I wanted a nice clean print with few print lines because of the grip pattern. Of course you’ll need to tweak print settings if printing in PETG or ABS.

Never met him but saw many of his interviews and he frequently shared that holster story. Buckets Off.

That is a great option Gio! Thanks for making the base boot available for purchase! I’m definitely checking that out.

I glued my magnet on the underside of the holster. It secures my DVH blaster just fine.

That is without a doubt the coolest patch I have seen. Totally Awesome!

Looking good! Don’t forget your knee armor needs the upper strap with rivets 1/8”. I’m sure you’re on it, but thought it worth mentioning just in case.

Glad to hear it! Congrats! That bag is sick! I didn’t know Wally made bags like that for heavy blasters. I’ll have to hit him up for one the next time we’re trooping together.

Congratulations on your approval Brother! You look great!

I am able to tie my boots even with the vinyl. You’ll be fine whether you tie them or not. Some scouts replace the laces with no tie laces. I was thinking about going that route but most of the builds I was referencing didn’t so I trusted the process and it worked fine.

Congratulations Keith and welcome to the Pathfinders! You did an excellent job on your kit and I hope you consider shooting for Lancer down the line.

Christina, I found this excellent article that covers all of the sources that can cause the dreaded white residue on leather and step by step instructions on how to remove it and keep it from returning. It might be worth a look. Hope it helps. https://favoredleather.com/why-does-leather-turn-white/

Finally outta the shadows! Welcome brother and happy birthday! You’ve got me beat by 3 days! Looking forward to seeing your WIP. You’re in good hands with some of the best armorers in the Legion who know these costumes inside and out. Ask tons of questions! We’re all here to help you succeed.

Jill, congratulations! Well deserved and way to persevere. I watched your build with interest and watch you tackle every obstacle that came your way. You’ve done the Empire proud. Welcome to the Lancers!

There’s a great video on YouTube by a fellow scout who demonstrates how to weather the armor. The process would be similar for your soft parts. For some insane reason I cannot get the link to insert in this post, but if you look up “weathering scout armor” you’ll pull it right up on YouTube. The creator’s name is Constantin. The video link if you want to cut and paste is 2be0cuCSoLQ The key is small light bursts and light passes. You don’t want to go too heavy, holding down or fully pressing the trigger, especially in a single spot and end up with what looks like a blaster mark. Go light and build from there. It helps to do a test run to perfect your technique and get the feel of things if you’re nervous. You can use scrap fabric or even cardboard for that. I laid out my soft parts and visualized how I wanted it to look. It helps to have a sense of what you want it to look like in your head. Looking over your weathered armor will give you a sense of how the soft parts should look too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks good. That should do it! I don’t see any issues. Good luck with your submission.

Good luck Brother! You got this in the bag! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Excellent work on the boots. Well done! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use something similar and I concur, it is very easy to work with. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here’s the DLT-19X image from the CRL. You can see the wire faintly in the same position indicated in the photo provided by your GML of the Standard DLT-19. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You’re not going crazy or blind. There’s no wiring on the T-tracks for the DLT-19X in Battlefront. Keep in mind that there’s a lot of in game variations like that because the game designers were selective about what to use and how to design things for visual purposes. That little detail would never be seen in game action so it was omitted. The standard DLT-19 carried by Storm Troopers and Sandies do have the wiring around the ends of the T-Tracks, and this was done by the prop department to keep them secure to the gun. So it’s only natural that one would assume they’d be on the 19X too. While there’s no specific mention of wiring on the T-Tracks in the CRL, you have to keep in mind that the CRL includes the images too. In looking at the CRL image, the wiring is definitely present on the 19X. At least it’s an easy-peasy fix. Thanks for noting it because the wiring wasn’t even on my radar for my own build. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The rework you did is excellent. They look waaay better.

Justin, if you're just looking for a great display piece that is available as a free 3D print, check out TK14082's version on Thingiverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4003566 He has a great build thread over at FISD too and has received many accolades for the accuracy of his print which he has meticulously measured real SMG parts. There is a link on his Thingiverse page to his conversion kit which allow you to mod the SMG into an E11. I have all of his files, but have not yet printed it myself, but from what I have seen of at FISD, it is impressive and top notch!