Aradun

If we lived a lot closer Nathan I’d let you do all of my sanding and I’d happily tackle all of your painting/weathering lol. For some reason your images are showing as broken links in TT. I’ll have to bounce over to the forum to see if the issue persists.

[mention]Gertjan Kool [/mention] great research! I’m digging this proposal. As an aside, this is the only option I use for my heavy in BF2, and yes, I only use the ST for my Heavy. I’d love to see this added as an option to the BF2 ST Heavy. Good luck with the proposal!

Congrats on your approval Fred! Well done and welcome to the ranks!

That’s awesome! Way to represent! Have a blast and hope all goes well with your kit!

Looking good Brother. Make sure to use a fork or spoon handle, or something else narrow and pointy to push out your corners on the pouch flaps before you close the seams so that you have nice sharp corners and not rounded ones. It’s way easier to do before you seam it closed than after. Good luck!

[emoji1787] Enjoyed the Bob Ross spoof.

Nate, rest assured your mom and family will be in the thoughts and prayers of my family.

You're welcome Jenny. Glad it helps. Keep up the great work. Your build thread is already of tremendous help to other scouts as you well know!

Jenny, you did a phenomenal job on the boot cut outs. They look super clean. Well done!

What Bluetooth and wireless mic do you use? I’m in the market for a Bluetooth set up with my Ukswrath set up. I’d rather go with something that others say works well then roll the dice on Amazon with a random buy. Edit: Your image of the Bluetooth wireless set didn’t show in my TT app until after I posted. I’ll check it out. Are you pleased with the mic?

The thigh patches will vary slight due to variance in size and construction from one scout to another. Tandy Leather is a good place to pick up your pigskin. This will be more than enough to cover whatever the measurements may be. https://tandyleather.com/products/pigskin-suede-split-chrome-free?_pos=3&_sid=5bf822550&_ss=r

@Hask just out of curiosity, does anything need to be done to the snap left on the boot once that side strap is removed?

Dude this is phenomenal and will be a huge help to others down the line. Thanks for taking the time to do all this graphic work for the pattern. I wish it was around when I did mine last year. Well done brother!

It’s a little easier using the X-Acto chisel blades of the appropriate width to remove the cut out than it is using the standard X-Acto blade. After scoring the sides and top pencil lines to an appropriate depth, the blade can be used like a chisel to remove the cutout in one piece. Makes for a cleaner and smoother cut. I found the soles of the Kingshow boots to cut like butter with a good blade so be careful like Retrofire said.

Amazon has a decent selection and price. Just search for the size you want and you’ll have plenty of options to choose from. I grab my elastic from Amazon and have plenty left over for future projects or repairs.

Both of those will work. I used e6000 and it’s held up fine.

Jenny here’s a couple more images of the original boots for reference:

Are you planning on doing anything with the cummerbund? It looks like you have 7 ribs with 8 stitch lines instead of 5 ribs with 6 stitch lines per the current CRL.

You can definitely make your own using CrowProps boots as a base or the usual Kingshow Boot many use. The tutorial on the forum is solid and easy to follow. I think I might have some additional measurement details in my WIP if I remember correctly. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19708-biker-scout-boots-tutorial/ It’s definitely the way to go if you want to save some cash, and you’re okay putting in a little extra time.

Perfect. Standard rivets above...got it. Thanks Mickey for hanging in there and bearing with me brother.

I got that. But the flange in the link provided above is the diameter of the “pan head” portion of the rivet (see “A” in the image below), which in this particular example measures 5/8” and is clearly too wide. When 1/8” rivets are referenced, as above, the links that are being provided are measuring 1/8” at “D” in the figure below. My question is does measurement “A”matter? If I’m understanding everything correctly, it does, and if so what is the size of “A” that is acceptable. 1/8” rivets using “D” to calculate the referenced size in the CRL do come with different sized “A”. Again, I just want to make sure that I understand this for my own edification and more importantly so that I don’t give anyone misinformation.

Okay, so I gotta ask, because this question keeps coming up since the CRL was updated. What are you referring to when you say “flange?” Are you referring to the head (i.e., washer like) portion? I only ask because the rivets size that is recommended refers to the diameter of the hat/body. You can get 1/8” or 3mm rivets with varying diameter heads and if it’s the head diameter that is the issue then perhaps that also needs to be specified. For example, my RS kit did have 1/8” rivets but the head diameter was 3/8” and I had to swap some of those out for 1/8” rivets with a 5/16” diameter head for my Lancer app. I’m in no way trying to muddy the waters here, but this question about head size vs hat/body size has been asked a few times and the response is to go with the hat/body size. The problem with rivet classification is that the head size doesn’t factor into the sizing noted on the packaging.

Andy, you’re asking great questions and getting solid advice from the armorers (that’s why they get paid the big bucks [emoji6] and are IMHO the among best in the Legion). You’re also making solid and excellent progress. Your photos above are proof positive of that, so set aside any sense of feeling defeated or discouraged. Everyone who walked this road always has to tweak here or there, and make minor modifications to get it to work for them. That’s progress brother, not set backs [emoji6]. You’re doing great and man will you be beaming with pride once you get everything dialed in, which I can’t wait to see! Hang in there brother! Chopper has a great thread on how to keep your kit together while trooping. In case you haven’t stumbled upon it yet... http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/18894-some-tips-for-keeping-your-scout-costume-together-while-trooping/ Once you get everything dialed in then you’ll be able to secure everything in place and you won’t have to worry about shifting, sagging, etc.

Don't get me wrong. PLA and PLA+ are great stuff and allow for some great prints, but they are susceptible to extreme heat. As long as you don't leave the prop in a car during summer heat, or lock it away in a storage container, yard shed, or other area where the heat can do a number on it, you'll be fine fine with PLA(+). I just don't want you shelling out your hard earned cash and then lock your E22 in the trunk of your car in 90+ degree weather while you grab a beer after a troop with some garrison mates only to find your E22 has warped when you get home.

Can’t speak to the accuracy of this model, but I did purchase my neuro-saav binocs from him and he’s easy to deal with. Keep in mind that he prints in PLA which doesn’t hold up in intense heat as mentioned above so you need to be careful with transport and storage. If you do decide to make the purchase after getting the go ahead from an armorer as to accuracy, see if he’ll print it in ABS or PETG seeing has how it’s a custom request anyway. Also consider seeing if someone from your Garrison has a 3D printer and is willing to print Sean Fields files for you. You can offer them $150 for time and material and get it printed in ABS or PETG which will weather the heat far better.