Aradun

If you're unfamiliar with painting aluminum, do a little research first. Aluminum doesn't always respond well to paint without some initial prep and priming.

Jason, have you seen this one capturing Grogu sounds from Fortnite? It’s a clean file without music or ambient background chatter. You could probable covert it to an mp3 file with a browser add-on and edit it from there.

Congrats and welcome to the detachment!

Congrats and well deserved! You put together an excellent build and I’ll be looking forward to seeing you among the first Mando scouts to earn Lancer now that level 2 cert has been squared away! Well done Trooper and welcome to the Legion!

This is great Chris and will give others a sense of cost expectations. Thanks for taking the time to post this.

Chris, great job! Everything looks sharp. Looking forward to your BBB day and seeing you bring your build to completion! Well done trooper!

He sounds like an amazing guy. I’m sure he’ll be sorely missed by friends, family and fellow troopers. My condolences to all. RIP.

I agree with Retrofire. I’ve done both but find a t-shirt works a bit better.

Always love the level of detail you provide Christina. Looks fantastic.

Great job Steve! You look great!

Yep! Looking good brother! It’s amazing how some minor adjustments with position, strapping, etc. can really tighten up the look. Nice!

It depends on what your goal is. I was good for basic with the current rivet placement, but I did need to move it for Lancer. Here’s a shot of the original hole filled with greenstuff and the new rivet installed above. There’s some reference photos in Scoutopedia. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/scoutopedia.php A cobalt drill bit can be used to remove the rivet, which should be aluminum. If you decide to move it, double check with an armorer first on placement of the new rivet and tips for removal of the old. I don’t know why RS just doesn’t put it in the correct spot. Edit: one more thing to check while working on the chest and back. My kit had 1.25” elastic webbing and I needed to swap it out for 1.5” for Lancer.

Ditto for me. You can see the red line across the top and down the side of my topper.

It looks like it might be just a dressing issue. Your chest armor is just sitting in place via gravity, but I looks like it is sitting too high and your bund might be able to come up a tad. I suggest getting someone to help you get things in place and snap some front, back, and side photos. Then post them up for the armorers and they’ll be able to help you dial things in and if needed recommend some alternatives.

Looks good Arne.

Chris, I did Happy Trooper’s build with some mods. Didn’t document the build with detail but have some posts on it in the thread below. There are others who have posts here as well. I never cleared it with my GML as I built it before I joined the Legion and once I became a Scout I was in the market for a DLT-19X. Plus it’s a beast to carry. I suspect whether it will meet 501st clearance will depend on your GML so check with yours to see if there will be any issues of concern. I can also tell you that you’re low balling yourself on that $30 estimate. You’ll probably need to at least double it unless you already have materials and supplies on hand. When all was said and done mine topped $100. My Thread: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21195-dlt19-happy-trooper-build-with-mods/ Greenyone’s Thread: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21071-happy-trooper-dlt-19-50-hardware-store-build/ I have scale blueprints for a MG34 which can help dial in specs for your build. That’s what led to some of my mods to Happy’s version. If you’re interested PM me and I’ll get them out to you.

Looking good Chris!

Hey Andy, while working on your chest armor consider adding a little abs paste to the inside of the chest armor center bottom and center top. After 9 troops my RS chest armor developed cracks in these areas, which as Corey noted are stress points. Adding a little abs paste on the inside will thicken those thin areas up and reinforce them. I repaired my cracks the same as noted in my earlier post on the belt accept I did not apply any abs paste to the front of the chest armor.

Superb work brother! It looks fantastic!

Man, I forgot how good your set up looks Jason. Sweet!

I'm excited for you Arne! Looks like your off to a solid start with a good game plan for your build. You'll quickly realize that posting everything in your own WIP will create a single repository of info, resources, and feedback, and you'll be able to go back and find things with ease. As you've come to learn from your research thus far, the armory team here is excellent so be sure to post up any questions you have along the way in your WIP. We're all looking forward to your joining the ranks as a scout and hopefully a lancer down the line!

That’s awesome! Congrats and Happy Birthday!!

You look great Mike! Congrats on getting that first troop under your belt. As for weathering Constantin aka Strider on the forum has a simple tutorial on YouTube that may help. The key is not to spray directly onto the armor, but rather start to spray off to the side of the armor and then spray across it to avoid those blaster burns. Test your technique on a piece of plywood or something to get the feel of it. A simple solution to fogging lenses is first to clean them. The condensation needs something to stick to and dirty lenses make it easy for fog to build quickly. A simple and cheap scuba trick for anti-fog is to use a spray bottle filled with baby shampoo and water. Spray your lenses and then wipe with a lint free rag. For the Blaster, you might be able to find a rare earth magnet the right size that you can glue just under your barrel. Paint it black so it blends in with the blaster. Then attach a second magnet to your holster and you should be golden. I suggest shooting Darth Voorhees a PM to see where he purchased his magnets from for his EC-17 blasters. They were the perfect size and shape. If overheating is an issue for you try a pair of compression shorts and a compression t-shirt. Both are light weight, form fitting with no added bulk, and they breath really well. A fan or two in the bucket will also help with heat and fogging as you said.

NICE!!!

Solid work with the chalk and piping! I used the same method for my ROTJ bund and it came out great. You’re making great progress. Keep it up.