Aradun

By “bigger” are you referring with overall length or the width/thickness of the pieces? All versions of the DLT use the MG34 as their base. That weapon measured 48” or 1219mm. Anything smaller in length is undersized. There are vendors that print them the correct length but with a slimmer more narrow profile than actual size. It’s very noticeable when placed next to a DLT that’s printed in proper proportion.

Hey, welcome to the Pathfinders! SC is alive and well and one of the more popular armor makers here in the US. As for buckets for those with larger head sizes, check out Walt's Trooper Factory. https://www.facebook.com/WaltsTrooperFactory/. You can reach out to him via Facebook to confirm sizing for your needs.

You’ll find doing it as pictured above will give you a tighter and more comfortable fit than running it straight across the bottom.

I have the bund attached with Velcro to the vest, front and back, AND there is Velcro on the front of the bund that attaches to the inside of my chest armor. I didn’t attach the bund to the back armor in order to allow some flex for when I bend over. I didn’t want my movement constricted. Some people opt for snaps, but most use Velcro because it allows for greater adjustment than a snap.

Hey Nick! Welcome to the Pathfinders! RS Propmasters has a series on assembling their Scout Armor on YouTube, which may be helpful with regard to how to strap and assemble your armor. Just keep in mind that SC’s armor will be set up a little different. If you have any questions as you move along, just hit the armory team up and we’ll get you sorted. I recommend starting a WIP to keep your build, questions, resources, and advice/feedback all in one place for easy reference. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/forum/96-biker-scout-wip/

Your tank looks great! If you use a dremel with a cutting tool, make sure to have the rpm’s set low to start. It will give you more control during the cut. Make sure you have a line to follow to help ensure a straight cut.

Looks great Chris! Nice touch with the threaded barrel.

For clips, check out Amazon- https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09471BZCJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title Nice work on the TD!

Hey Jorge! Welcome to the Pathfinders. Nice work on the DLT, it looks excellent! Your experience model building will definitely be an asset as Chopper noted. Don’t sweat ordering everything either. It’s not cheating. Everyone has a different approach when building their kits and there’s nothing wrong with commissioning everything. As a fellow RS owner, I know you’ll be pleased. Be sure to hit us up with any questions once you have everything in hand. The armory team is here to help you succeed. You’re off to a great start!

Congratulations!

Thanks for putting this together! I pinned this post so that it will be easier to find and reference for future scouts. You did an amazing job on those gloves!

Here’s a photo of my set up with an RS bucket that is fiberglass like yours, but with an abs faceplate and visor. It’s contrast and brightness are adjusted so that you can see the strap better. Where the strap enters the bottom of the bucket, it comes up the inside to the top slit, and can be either glued in or velcroed at the top. As for where to get a cup, you can check with studiocreations: https://www.studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/forsale_bike_replacementparts.html You’ll find the chin cup at the bottom of the page. I too wear glasses and the fiberglass bucket is not forgiving when trying to get it over your head. I too need to take my glasses off first. I find it comes of much easier that going on. The strap helps. I do not have any padding or hard hat liner and do fine but YMMV. The helmet is lined with a light padding about 1/4” and covered in black fabric by RS to prevent the fiberglass from coming in contact with the skin.

If you want to proceed with a Lancer app, best thing to do is to grab the CRL and see what, if anything, needs to be adjusted or changed with your current set up to meet the requirements. If everything looks good, then apply using the guidelines Chopper provided. The review team will inform you of anything that may need to be addressed and then you can decide whether you want to pursue the changes or you can withdraw your app. No pressure. My advice would be to get a few troops under your belt first to see what adjustments you’ll need to make to your armor for comfort and fit in the field. Then give some thought to applying.

Best day ever, as you well know!

Very, very cool. Really liked the video on your FB page too.

I’m going to toss out a third option building on what [mention=83045]Chopper[/mention] already noted. Rivet the tank topper directly to the tank. Then drill a small hole in the shelf of the back armor that will allow the exposed rivet on the underside of the tank to sit in. With the rivet sitting inside this hole, you’ll have a nice flush surface to use e6000 to glue the tank directly onto the shelf. You should be able to “mark” where to drill the hole on the shelf by setting the tank on the shelf of the back armor once the topper has been riveted to it and pressing lightly so that the rivet makes an impression or mark on the shelf.

Nice! I have the same bin. It’s awesome just how much you can pack in there with proper nesting. I have my ROTJ in there along with my additional flight suit, CB, bicep armor, and neck seal for my JFO Scout. I generally place a flight suit on the bottom as a cushion, nest the the small armor pieces in the chest/back, and set that on the left (opposite the wheels). Then nest the helmet in the middle wrapped in my vest, with the boots on top of each other on the right with the wheels. I have a tray that goes over the boots. Belts are nested on top with CBs and the other flight suit layered on top as another cushion. My set up pre JFO addition can be seen here. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21153-packing-for-deployment/&do=findComment&comment=203034

Congrats! You put together a great build with the mods you did to the original armor. Well done!

To add to what Chopper has said, I recently used a sheet of .08 ABS to make 4 large washers roughly the size of a quarter and used that with a metal river washer on the inside of the boots to serve as a backer for the holster rivets. I’m not climbing trees or battling Ewoks when I troop, but I’ve had my rivets tear through the vinyl on two occasions while trooping now, the most recent of which was last week. The first one left a nasty whole that needed to be patched because there was no way to re-secure the new rivet to the boot. The large ABS washer will provide additional strength and its larger size will ensure that it doesn’t happen a third time.

Great work. Things are really coming together nicely!

Nope. I tried it, but the mags were too thick. So I went with Velcro, and because RS faceplates have a tendency to be just a bit askew I only used it on one side. Just took some white Velcro that I had on hand for my build, cut it to size, and attached with e6000.

We have all of the reference pics available at Scoutopedia in case you need any other reference photos. http://www.501stpathfinders.com/scoutopedia.php

Congrats! Well done!

Sweet!

The change is the talk of the town, but I find I have to correct almost everyone who talks about it. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had to correct people who are complaining that they have to change their collar, or ask if there’s going to be a six month grace period. That’s when you find out that they haven’t looked at the CRL or watched the video. I’ve become the open collar emissary. Lol.