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Aradun

Armoury Team
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Everything posted by Aradun

  1. So think crop top for the flak vest. I believe my vest comes down about 3 inches below the armor which allows enough room to add Velcro to secure the bund and cod piece. The belt does not sit over the bund. The bund rests on top of the belt. Most bunds are about 8” high, so that would mean 2” of the bund tests under the chest and back armor. As for the sleeves, they should optimally extend beyond the shoulder bells no more than 1.5”, but that measurement is a Lancer spec.
  2. Lou, here are two more photos of the piece on the sprue that may provide a little more detail.
  3. Outstanding job! Great finishing work! The smooth finish and no visible print lines really make this stand out. Well done trooper! The only thing missing is the thin gauge wire that wraps around the t-tracks on the barrel. You’ll see little V notches at the end of the tracks. That’s where the wire goes. You’re GML may not approve it without them. They were a known feature of the DLT19 and are present in the DTL19X CRL photos albeit very tough to spot due to the low resolution of the CRL photo. Again, outstanding!
  4. Looks sweet! Great job on assembly and weathering!
  5. If you plan to use it as a template, just keep in mind that your actual lens needs to be larger than the piece you cut out so that it can be properly glued into place.
  6. Hey Mike, The model that most used from Thingiverse was made by Surfinbird132. He pulled all of his models from there and posted them over on Cults3D. They are there for a very nominal fee. https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/star-wars-dlt-19x-blaster-mg-34 This is the same model that Chris and others, including myself used.
  7. Congrats buddy! Looking forward to trooping with you in our TBs soon!
  8. Welcome Victoria! I’m tagging in a couple of scouts that will help get your sizing questions sorted as they are of similar height to you @jennyruth @shashachu @M.J For MonCal, you can reach out to him via Facebook https://m.facebook.com/Far-Away-Creations-124196600929034/ or through his Etsy Shop where he has his scout armor listed: https://www.etsy.com/shop/MonCalsPropShop?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=717530134 Make sure to check out some of the WIPs for the ROTJ Scout to see what’s involved: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/forum/96-biker-scout-wip/ The challenge will be modifying the armor to fit your build. If you’re up to 3D printing your armor, you’ll be able to get a more custom fit. Once those tagged scouts chime in you’ll have a better sense of your options. If you have any questions along the way, be sure to ask. We’re here to help you succeed!
  9. If you need any pointers or have questions, just let us know. We’re happy to help.
  10. Matt, you are a beast when it comes to trooping and charity in the 501st. I for one am truly inspired by your work and dedication. Congratulations.
  11. It’s really just a matter of preference. The simplest way is to attach a square 2”x2” piece of loop to the back of the vest where you have your 2” closure already. Then put a 2”x2” piece of hook on the end of your strap to attach it. It’s keeps it nice and snug and you’ll have no issues during a troop. For the cod, you can certainly sew it to the flak jacket, but then there’s no room for adjustments. You gotta make sure you have it perfectly positioned prior to sewing it on. I prefer to have the ability to adjust it. I used hook and loop again. I sewed 2” loop onto the back of my cod along the top, and then 2” hook onto the front of my vest. That gives me a little wiggle room when I suit up to make sure I have everything perfectly positioned and aligned. Again, it’s just a matter of preference.
  12. @Zv288bot any thoughts or guidance?
  13. As the JFO Scout CRL is only about 2 years old, and there are less than 2 doz members currently in the Legion with an approved JFO Scout (I was #9 back in April of this year), you're not going to find a vendor who makes the harness, battery pack, etc. Most of us made the harness from scratch ourselves based off of screen shots and following the work of those who built before us. That being said, @MrPoopie is the designer who created the 3D files for this build. His riot baton, battery pack, and control box are what all JFO Scouts currently use. I would recommend looking through some of the build threads here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/forum/199-scout-trooperjfo-wip/ There's only six builds but it'll give you a sense of what materials are needed and how to proceed. Of course, if you have any specific questions, the armory team is happy to assist.
  14. Adding to the above Charles, consider connecting with your local 501st Garrison. For Utah, it’s the Alpine Garrison: https://ut501st.com If you’re attending school out of state, you should be able to connect with the local unit near you. Check here for unit listings: https://www.501st.com/members/displayUnits.php This might give you access to local assistance as you work on your build. Of course the armory team here will always be a solid resource you can turn to as you work on things, so don’t hesitate to reach out with any questions you may have.
  15. Welcome to the Pathfinders! It looks like you’re off to a solid start. Both Kripton and SC are vetted vendors and make quality products. Keep in mind that no matter what vendor you choose you’ll need to tweak for fit. As for the speeder bike, have you checked out the build group on FB? https://m.facebook.com/groups/1908006725884573?group_view_referrer=search And the Garage here on the forum? http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/forum/188-the-garage/
  16. When posting pics the amount of allotment for each forum user is 500KB. Once you hit that you’re out of space for your account. Most users will use a hosting site like Imgur to post photos to the forum. You can also download the Tapatalk app which will allow you post high res photos directly into your posts when posting through the app. Here are two posts with additional info on posting photos to the forum. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22990-sharing-photos-with-dropbox/#comment-215704 http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/23053-faq-how-do-i-post-images/
  17. You’re off to a great start! Nice job on the bucket!
  18. Sure thing. Hit me up if you decide to go with 3D printing and I’ll direct you to some good files.
  19. If have links to what I used for my soft parts, most of which was purchased at JoAnn Fabric if you’re looking for stuff.
  20. I can’t speak for IA’s EC17 hold out blaster, but their DLT versions are noticeably undersized in thickness. Are you open to 3D printing these yourself, or do you know someone local who would be willing to print these for you? If so, there are better options that I could direct you to.
  21. As KOTrooper and Bikerscout007 noted, you'll seam rip one of the sides, either the outer or inner leg seam. To decide which seam, take a look at both. Generally, there will be one with a simple seam where you cannot see the stitching, and the other will have a a thicker seam where the fabric is folded and you can see a double stitch running the length. You want to choose the simple seam. That is the one that will be easy to seam rip and restitch as Bikerscouot007 noted in the above post.
  22. Yep, like Chooper said, check with your GML if you’re worried, but if you do, send your GML a photo of you wearing the vest with your armor on (at least with chest, back, and shoulder bells). The difference in sheen may look glaring to you when looking at the vest by itself, but keep in mind that very little of the flak vest is exposed when wearing your armor, so it’s not likely that you’ll notice the difference between the sheen of the sleeves and the body of the vest with your armor on.
  23. Unless I’m miss understanding your question, the faceplate should just stay open when you lift it up. If it doesn’t, then try tightening your bolts a little bit and that should do the trick.
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