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Chopper

Command Staff
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Everything posted by Chopper

  1. KriptonTop on Etsy. Just make sure you use Fedex shipping. Here's my setup with his flak vest and cod.
  2. I was initially approved with the SC/Altmann combo. It's a very popular one and they work well together.
  3. Thanks for all the work you did up to this point, dude.
  4. Right on. I know a few scouts on here have opted to go that way, though it's less common than with our shoretrooper cousins. Just looking at your instagram photos, you'll definitely need to fill im all the "vent" slots in the front and back of the helmet. The actual scout buckets used decals for those parts of the helmet. The other aspect I noticed is that the return edge on the top of the visor is really short compared to the sides. The edge on the screen helmets was about the same all the way around. You can see a lot of really helpful details on the screen scout helmets in the link below: http://www.starwarshelmets.com/real_Biker_Scouts.htm Hope that helps!
  5. I'm curious, did you 3D print that helmet?
  6. I did some very light misting using tamiya matte black model spray cans. I stood about 1.5 to 2ft back when I did the misting, so it's really light. The spray from the tamiya cans is much finer than a standard rustoleum rattle can, and closer to an airbrush, which I've found has a better effect.
  7. Mon Cal is more accurate, but keep in mind that he offers them in runs of 3 or 4 kits several times a year. Keep an eye out on the vendor forums, since he'll announce when he has several pulled and ready for sale.
  8. Thank you Bill. Keep in mind that the seam note about the helmet is optional, and as such is not a mandatory Lancer qualification requirement -- we just wanted to note it for your benefit. Good on you if you're going for it!
  9. Hi Bill, Thank you very much for your application. I hope you had a good Thanksgiving holiday! Great work overall. We do have some notes for you. Please give them a look and let us know if you have any questions. We've itemized our notes below: Helmet: You should open up the ear holes a bit more. Please reference this photo of one of the screen used helmets as a guide: Additional OPTIONAL note regarding helmet: The Level 2 spec for "no visible seams on the dome" is listed as optional in the CRL, but we did want to note that the step at the join between the cap and back of your SC helmet in photo 39 looks fairly large. We encourage you to adjust the fit between the cap and back, if you can, to make it more flush. If you can't, you could always use a flexible gap filler on the seam, which would also mean repainting the helmet. Flight Suit: Your butt flap appears to be too long. You should trim approximately 2" off the bottom. Shoulder Armor: Your shoulder bells look like they're very close to the shoulder bridges, given the width of your shoulders. Take them out a bit, maybe 3/4" and see how they look. Bund: Your bund is riding low, are you able to pull it up towards your pecs approximately another inch? If it keeps slipping down from your flak vest, you may also want to try securing it in place with some velcro. Cod: The sewn inverted curve on your codpiece appears closer to a chevron shape, rather than an arc or curve as per the screen used cod. You can use this photo as a reference for the proper curve: Drop Boxes: Your drop boxes appear to be riding forward, towards the front of your belt. Can you even them out? Overall, most of our notes are fitment related and you're very nearly there. Again, please let us know if you have any questions or need any clarification. Thank you again!
  10. Amazing. Thank you so much for making these available, Mickey.
  11. Yep yep. What the rest of the crew already said. I made a pretty comprehensive post about ways to attach the armor parts linked below. Feel free to use whichever parts work best for you.
  12. I painted my RS helmet kit with Rusto 2 in 1 gloss white. You could also use semi gloss. You can likely use what you used with your TK as long as it's gloss or semi gloss and adheres to plastic well.
  13. Also note for the boot tutorial linked above, please use white thread for the stitching, not brown.
  14. Here's my take on it using your photos and paint. Feel free to give it a sketch with a pencil before cutting though and we'll take a look.
  15. You have a good start, but you should open the outer rounded edge up more. Try using this photo from the sw costume exhibit as a guide.
  16. It can vary, depending on the helmet. If you look at the RS helmet, which I linked earlier, the paint only reaches the edge of the indent: You can see it more clearly in the propstore auction photo, as well as the odd snout greeb: However, the Scout helmet from the Power of the Costume exhibition clearly has it just over the edge of the indent: And it's also the case with the green screen scout from the speeder chase:
  17. You can find the same visor material outside of Amazon: https://m.cyberweld.com/hobart-face-shield-replacement-lens-770580.html
  18. For your reference, here are some photos of the original screen used helmet that was procured by RS Props:
  19. Yeah man. That's not that bad at all. You can totally work with that.
  20. The key is that the snout color generally matches the decal colors. You don't want a dark grey snout with light grey decals, but an exact pantone shade match isn't necessary For the SC decals and trooper bay decals, the testors navy aggressor grey is a good choice.
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