Chopper

It's hot glue, so you could carefully heat the inside a bit with a hair dryer. That might looser the glue enough to remove if it won't come off otherwise.

Love it. Great work James.

I glued a neodymium magnet on the inside of the plastic, but it's difficult to show without me removing my holster from my boot. You can get the general idea in pandatrooper's thread below. I didn't cut my magnets through the plastic though. I also recommend you hold off until you get your blaster before gluing anything as it'd be difficult to mount the magnets properly otherwise.

Yes indeed. The DVH blaster is almost exactly the same dimensions as the screen used pistol, so it would fit in all 3 holsters.

It will fit in the SC holster, yes. However, keep in mind that the SC holster is oversized when compared to the CFO/Strider; RS; Mon Cal holsters, so the magnets will be extra useful.

With the DVH there's also a magnet just under the barrel as well.

There are two different king show boots available. I believe the "KINGSHOW Men's 1366 Water Resistant Premium Work Boots" have the preferred wheat soles. The "Kingshow Men's 1801 Work Boots" are also available on Amazon, but they have a split colored sole.

Nice work. As you can see with the screen used boots, the dog bones don't touch all the way on the sides.

Hey Dot. I'd say "no" on the jersey knit sample you posted. However, the second option from dharmatrading actually looks about right. We don't really know the specific type of fabric used with the scout vest, as we haven't seen a screen used one in the wild. I would recommend using a flat material vs twill, but keep in mind most of our references are from screen shots like this:

Hey Hoda, the only possible additional item I see is the brown thread on your boots. Just some forewarning that this is actually an item that's getting clarified to specify white thread in an upcoming level 2 CRL revision. If you are able to get cleared for basic approval and then submit your Lancer app within 6 months of the published CRL change, then you should be ok. And obviously, if you get both in before the change is published, then you should be fine as well.

I can't speak to that Etsy vendor, but that looks like a print of a common 3D Scout helmet model. I see a number of issues with that particular helmet, notably the upper visor, ear holes, and cut out "vents". We have had a few scouts who ordered the newimage helmet and were quite happy with it. You can see a post with some images in the links below:

They look good, Jill. Should be a-ok to proceed.

Placement looks good. Also, pro-tip, but if you dip the end of a toothpick in rubbing alcohol, you can very carefully clean up those paint bleed spots around the black painted area.

Congrats James!

Yeah let me know about that. I haven't tried cutting off the hex nut on mine, as I figured it used foam internals, like the old hyperfirm blasters. Wasn't sure what I'd find underneath if I chopped it off.

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None of those imperfections are structural, so I think you're at the point where you can start sanding it flush. You can spray it with some rustoleum filler primer to help fix the surface imperfections and then sand again. https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-260510-12-Ounce-Sandable/dp/B006ZLQ4HQ

Have you already reached out to WTF to get replacement parts? At least for the greebs and decals? Most of us use a hobart face shield for the helmet lens: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VECKRO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You can get replacement greebs from studio creations, though I'm not certain how well they'd fit the WTF kit: https://studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/forsale_bike_replacementparts.html Helmet decals from trooperbay: https://trooperbay.com/star-wars-bikerscout-helmet-decals Also, tank decals: https://trooperbay.com/biker-scout-tank-decals If you have a 3D printer @MrPoopie also has 3D designs for some of the greebs: https://www.thingiverse.com/MrPoopie/designs Again, I'd start with WTF, but if not, there are additional options available.

Do you have the 3M headband or did you cut one out of a hard hat liner? If you're going to glue it successfully, a lot is going to depend on how much contact there is between the inside of the helmet and the headband. Do you have any photos you can show us?

What Greeny describes is actually the ideal way to use a contact adhesive, like E6000. Thanks for posting it.

I put some velcro on my flak vest to keep it in place. I have plenty of photos of my setup in the thread below.

Looks good, dude.

If the fabric is thin enough to be semi-see through, then there's no reason you couldn't double it up. Keep in mind that the white batting in the bund will also add to the color as well. Montana Gold is acrylic, so it won't truly bond to the plastic -- it just sorta sits on top. This means if the snout gets scraped at all, even with a fingernail, the paint is coming off. Just keep that in mind before you start putting down paint layers. Testors Model Master Navy Aggressor Grey, or a similar color, is generally recommended for the snout.

Thanks Constantin. I still wish they had left off the hex nut, as it wasn't present on the original they scanned, but this is still about as close as most of us are gonna get to an original.

This is the link for the 3M bolts: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/10270-fs-accurate-tb-helmet-hardware-kit-headband-kit/