Chopper

They're a recent addition and the first batch are currently in production. There's no in-hand reviews of the boots yet, so if you have concerns about plunking down that much cash, I'd hold off on purchasing them until we get some feedback from the troops.

You can paint or plastidip the interior of the bucket black if you want. Some people do that, but the original helmets weren't painted black on the interior -- they just put some black gaffer tape near where the ear holes where. If you choose to paint or plastidip the interior black, I'd do it after assembly. The faceplate is easily removable and it's easy enough to mask the edges. Plus glue tends not to adhere as well to paint over plastic.

Hi Dennis, yes you could take up the bottom of your butt flap about and inch and see how that looks. The length of your sleeves appears to be within the 1.5" specified in the CRL. so that looks ok. The circumference might be a bit wide, yes, which is why you're getting some flaring with the elastic.

Hey bud, to start you're going to need to start carefully trimming back the U-shaped cut on the top of the visor. I've made some rough marks on your images, but this part of the build calls for small steps and micro-surgery, so go slow! I think you can also take down the return edge on the top of the faceplate a bit as well. You'll need to leave enough so that you'll have some decent surface area to attach it to the top of the visor. Again, slow and steady on this one. Also, here's some overall shots of one of the original buckets (compiled photo from Mon Cal), so you can get a sense of spacing and clearance for the faceplate vs the dome portion.

No problem dude. Keep the questions coming.

Caps look a-ok as is dude. 👍

Well, you're instinct was right, it is too long 😁 Going off the photo, I'd say you could bring it down to about where I've marked in the photo below. It's definitely not a hard rule, and there's some leeway, but generally the tube and caps should be just inside the distance between where the plastic ends and the webbing begins.

The length of the tubing should be proportional to the back of your hips. It does look a bit long, based on the shots above, but it'd help if you could mock it up on the back of your belt webbing -- that'd help us give you a better answer.

No problem bud. We've all been there.

Ah, I see what you mean. Did you lay down multiple layers of paint? How long have you been waiting between layers? What I'm seeing looks like a combination of humidity + the underlying paint layers not being dry. And if I recall, you're putting together a 3D printed scout? If that's the case, then your armor and helmet should at least appear as if it was ABS, as per the original armor. I'm not saying that your GML will necessarily notice these surface imperfections in your submission photos, especially on the helmet, but if they are brought to light, then yes, they could be an issue. The helmet will need some wet sanding work, but the drip you highlighted doesn't look like a huge deal. The drip can likely be wet sanded with 600 and 800 grit sandpaper, but it looks like there's also a lot of paint rippling around your thumb? Personally, I'd recommend that you wet sand down the imperfections with 400 and then 600 grit sandpaper, let it dry, and then give it another coat when the humidity is below 80%.

Hey bud, if you could post some photos of the paint areas in question, then we can take a look and let you know.

Congrats Melody!

You can actually make a new backing plate out of 2mm ABS. Determine the width dimensions based off of the aerator snout greeb, use a ruler to score and snap the left, right, and bottom edges, then use lexan scissors to cut the top curve. You can use an emory board to file the edges smooth. The indent can be created using the corner edge of a metal file. Mark the line in pencil, and then pass the file over the line repeatedly until the indent matches.

Looks like the hobart is in stock here: https://store.cyberweld.com/hobart-face-shield-replacement-lens-770580.html

You're just looking for your basic white and red colors. Insignia red and insignia white will likely work fine.

Hmmm, Gorilla Glue is a polyurethane adhesive. You may be able to pop the greeb off by inserting a small flathead screwdriver underneath, just be careful with it and don't force anything.

Even for Lancer, the greeblie does not have to be "exactly" like the screen used version. However, it should be close and generally representative as a whole of the ones worn in the film. For example, this is the SC greeblie, which is perfectly acceptable for Level 2. Is it exactly the same as what's in the screen used armor? No. Is it generally the same in that it has a flat face and the two small front facing bolts? Yes. You could follow @Retrofire's advice and fill in the side divot with apoxiesculpt or greenstuff and repaint. I would try and get the greeb off first though. What sort of glue did you use?

Yep, the four horizontal ridges between the circles.

No problem at all bud. Keep the questions coming. 😁

Huh, yeah I didn't realize that Praetorian Blasters had gone away as well. Not too many other options out there at the moment for rubber coated foam blasters, but hopefully someone else will try and fill the gap.

If you're using adhesive stickers, I would not put lacquer over them -- there's no need. The adhesive on the sticker is usually enough, plus if you need to replace them, you can just peel them off. If you're building a RS helmet and are using the provided water slide decals, then yes, I would clearcoat over them -- these can get scratched off. I suspect the builder was talking about waterslide decals, as those can be somewhat fragile without a top coat.

This will work: https://www.strapworks.com/Lightweight_Polypropylene_p/lwp2.htm

Are you asking about the trimmed edges of the armor, or the surface of the armor itself? If you're talking about the edges, you can wrap the sandpaper around a wood block and smooth the edges out. You can also use an emory board. Shouldn't take much sanding to smooth out any jagged edges. For cutting out the eyeholes, I like to drill out a series of holes in a rough pattern inside the marked cut lines. You can do it for the ear holes as well, see below. Once you've drilled out the bulk of the lens area, you can refine the shape with a dremel and files.

You can actually make a new backing plate out of 2mm ABS. Trace the shape of the old one, use a ruler to score and snap the left, right, and bottom edges, then use lexan scissors to cut the top curve. Use an emory board to file the edges smooth. The indent can be created using the corner edge of a metal file. Mark the line in pencil, and then pass the file over the line repeatedly until the indent matches.

The Wampa Wear suit is fine, though it's pricey and you'll still need to mod it to include the suede riding patches. A lot of folks use black Red Kap, Dickies, or Kolossus coveralls, which are significantly cheaper than the Wampa coveralls. In short, the Wampa Ware suit will work, but you're paying about twice as much (or more) for basically just the mandarin collar -- and you can easily make one of those on the other suits, once you remove the pockets from the work coveralls.