Chopper

Does this thread help you out with the shoulder bridges covers and attachment? http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=18957&hl=&fromsearch=1

Yeah, fixing that is going to be really tricky. Be careful, since, as you mentioned, you don't want to trim too much. Here's what I'd do (and maybe you've already done this) -- take out the visor bolts for now. Try to line up the helmet and visor edges as best you can, then tape the visor into place. You can let us take a look at this point if you want. Are the bolt holes still aligned? If not, you can put a piece of styrene behind the original holes and then you can redrill.

This is one of the tougher parts of lining up the scout helmet -- the right side of your helmet looks good. On the left side, your visor is aligned properly, but are you able to try and better align the faceplate with the bottom edge of the helmet?

Awesome, dude. Many of us had no idea how to do this stuff...until we did it! Or as John Larroquette says in Stripes: "Soldier. The only way to learn anything is to do it. Now fire the weapon."

Great work with the coverall mods so far!

Boom. Great work!

From what I have available, you can see it peeking out of the top here, and in the MOTM exhibition as well.

Are you looking for this photo? More optional attachment tips here: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=18894&hl=&fromsearch=1

You gonna be ready in time for Awesomecon? The more scouts, the merrier.

If you used E6000, you can scrape it off after it cures. It just kinda peels off with some friction, like rubber cement. At this time, the tank topper greeblie from SC is accepted for Lancer.

Agreed.

For rivets, I used a mixture of aluminum 1/8" dia with 1/8" grip range and 1/8" dia with 1/4" grip range. Sometimes you need a longer grip range if you're riveting thicker material and parts together. For rivet backing, I used aluminum 1/8" dia backing plates. Yes, definitely do your gluing outside or a well ventilated area. I do it outside, wearing gloves, and spreading the glue on with popsicle sticks. I tend to let my stuff cure outside, so yeah, follow the warnings on the label.

Ideally, your bund shouldn't be any higher than the 1.5" chest armor straps on the sides, so it all depends how everything looks with your armor on. The thumbnail image of your coveralls is pretty small, but as you mentioned, I can see that there's a noticeable size difference. I'm not going to say that an alteration shop can't adjust them to your size, there's most likely several shops in your area that can, but this is an instance where the amount of adjustments and alteration costs may end up being more than the cost of just getting a new suit. You could ask a few shops, see what their estimate was, and then make the call?

That's correct. There's a fairly detailed review of them from a few years ago here: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=12601&hl=%20imperial%20%20boots&st=0

Hello Pathfinder -- Sure, it can be done. Is the vertical length still ok and it's just the horizontal length that's too long now? Depending on how it was made, shortening the horizontal length of the bund would mean opening up the seams on the ends, trimming and tucking the ends of fabric in, and then doing a set of re-positioned velcro strips. My bund was too long when it arrived and I did a similar adjustment to make it fit properly. So yeah, it's definitely possible. How are you with a sewing machine, or, if you don't want to do it yourself, is there someone in the garrison who can help? You could also find an alteration shop that might be able to fit it for you. All those options are likely faster than ordering a new bund.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010EAQUEU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Once you open those ears up, I think you'll see that the helmet cools off quite a bit. If you end up wearing your dome for a while and you feel like the heat is really making things uncomfortable, there's various fan systems out there. Not a lot of scouts end up needing them, but they're quite popular with the TK's, so the option is there if you feel like you need it.

Hi Jason, I really can't recommend going that route as it breaks from the features of the original helmet and therefore wouldn't be approvable. The ear holes provide pretty good ventilation compared to other helmets -- especially when you're walking around. Is it just hot or is your lens fogging?

You can carefully widen the hole lengthwise, so the elastic fits. If you have a dremel, you can use that, just go slow and take off a tiny bit at a time.

Ok, thanks for the photos. You're right, the ear holes do look a bit too narrow, but that's ok, it should be an easy adjustment. Here's a few references photos of various screen helmets that you can use to guide any additional trimming. If you're not sure, you can always mark your cuts in pencil and double check with us

Hey Jason, neither Lvl 1, nor Lvl 2 in the CRL have a specified size in terms of inches/cm for the ear holes. Best practice is to emulate the shape and size of the originals for your particular maker's helmet. Is that a KS in the photo? If you can give us a head on shot of the helmet, we'd be happy to take a look and provide any feedback.

Yessir

Dry fit it first, but then you can just glue it in yeah. Some folks use E6000 or high heat hot glue.

Correct! Dots face forward.

You can try and see if you can detach the cod and Velcro it back on cleanly, but be careful that you don't do anything irreversible. I still think you'll have an easier time concealing the Velcro on the vest as opposed to the bund. There should be two small circles on the edge of each bicep t-bit greeblie. The circles should be on the front edge of whatever arm it's on. The wire is to help keep the bits on. They didn't use them on screen and I didn't use it for my build. Borrowing an image from Chef: