Chopper

Yeah, the newspaper technique is a good strategy. Pack 'em with newspaper and change the damp paper out when it absorbs enough water to be soaked through.

Excellent work. I really like to plaque.

Great work man. Fantastic job.

No problem. Hard to tell from the tiny photo on the profile page. Do you have a photo of the broken helmet? Even that would help. Otherwise, there are a number of scout helmet makers available. Many are listed here -- http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=19003

Is his number TB1250? The photo on the 501st profile page for him looks like a refurbished don post helmet?

There's no specific number for shoulder bridge to shoulder bell distance and no one is going to ask you to show the distance with a ruler ha ha. They should be relatively close and equidistant on both sides. However, to give some sense of scale, the top edge of my shoulder bells are about an inch away from the bridges. Try something in that ballpark, give us a look, and we can provide feedback.

Much better. Those small adjustments made a big difference.

It's about 50/50. I didn't do it off the bat myself, but others submit as soon as they're approved. Certainly nothing wrong with going for it if your kit is ready.

Good luck with your Lancer application, Jake.

Having a separate bund and cod is correct and the bund does indeed stop at the belt! Here's a photo from one of the screen used scout costumes, where you can see it pretty clearly

Yeah dude I saw you post that in the other thread. This is a great find and additional reference photos of the original prop are always appreciated!

You're definitely getting there, Pathfinder. One note on something that stands out to me is how the top of the visor is angled down in images 3 and 4. The line that goes around the helmet done and the visor should be relatively straight when viewed from the side. Here's a side view reference of the RS props screen used helmet, as well as a decent shot showing the space between the face plate and the top of the visor.

NICE! Great find Panda. I wonder what happened to the hero version of the scout blaster? Probably still at the Lucasfilm Archives.

Good work. Watch the edge that sits against the cap part of the helmet. If it's too tight it'll scrape the paint when you raise the visor. Work on smoothing out the edges for now, and then give it a few movements up and down once you attach everything and install the elevator screws. Then you can do a tiny bit of trimming to make sure it doesn't scrape.

Looking at the image from the top, the visor half on the right looks fine. The visor half on the left hasn't been trimmed enough. Flip the bigger half on top of the smaller, trimmed half. Trace the cut line from the trimmed half onto the larger half, and then slowly trim parts off until you reach the cut line. Check the fit each time you make a cut. That's correct about adding braces. You glue abs strips under the seam, and then bondo and sand the join. 762 has visual examples in the link below and I'm sure he'll chime at some point. http://forum.bikersc...showtopic=18321

Good luck Jake! I saw that you're using a hyperfirm and from my experience they should sit pretty securely in the SC holster. Some folks use magnets in the blaster and holster but that's a little tricky with the all rubber hyperfirm, since there's no metal to attach to. You could add a magnet in the blaster but that would take some surgery. The reality is that the boot holster is a finicky design that frustrates many a scout!

Get a cheap brush and some acrylic paints from Wal Mart or Michael's. You have to use acrylics or the paint will chip and crack off. Do about 3-4 coats, letting each dry before starting a new one. I also used king shoe boots for my build, but mine weren't two tone -- I used "wheat 1510" -- what kind did you get?

Seriously. Like I said earlier, I'd be willing to overlook it's flaws if it was like $200. For $700? Nope.

Well, normally I would have sent you to Diamond State Props, given that you're looking for heft and durability. Unfortunately, they're closing up shop and I believe they just did their final DLT19 run. You might want to post a WTB note in the trade forums. Maybe someone will want to sell theirs? I believe that Hyperfirm does a 19X, but that's rubber coated foam, so it might not be what you're looking for exactly. Other options are 3D printed versions from TK421propstop or ProCoPrint3DProps, but I've never seen their wares reviewed on here.

The CRL doesn't call for a sling, but if you still want to add one, the you could use these detatchable mounts -- https://www.amazon.co.uk/Quick-Release-Rifle-Swivels-Rifles/dp/B00UN0MSO8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524239839&sr=8-1&keywords=swivel+sling+rifle String through some 1" black webbing and add one or two of these for adjusting the strap, and you should be good to go -- https://www.amazon.co.uk/PLASTIC-WEBBING-RUCKSACK-ADJUSTER-BUSHCRAFT/dp/B00IG7MRRI/ref=sr_1_9?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1524239972&sr=1-9&keywords=strap+adjuster

Good job on the weathering dude

Congrats Lancer!

In the second image, where your leather belt is showing? Try and bring the top of your boxes about even with the top of your trouser belt.

Dickey Beer, who played one of the ROTJ scout troopers, was of a similar build -- I think he was around 5ft9, 160 lbs. So, you'll be looking good with an RS helmet!

I've used devcon a bunch. It works well and has a relatively flexible bond. It starts to set really fast though, so make sure you get your placement correct the first time.