MrPoopie

This is direct from the CRL: Helmet Gloss white or semi-gloss and may be lightly weathered. Lens is black in color and obscures wearer's eyes Decals are screen accurate Snout greeblie is medium gray and the aerator portion is painted black Inner edge of snout recess is black Bolts are either flat or have concave centers Helmet is true to the shape of original screen accurate helmet. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Chin cup is optional. No mesh material mounted in the ears. Area behind ears inside the helmet is blacked out, either with paint or gaffer tape Snout greeblie is screen-accurate: it is an elongated plate with a rounded top, with a detail modeled after a Yamaha XS1100LG model motorcycle engine and sink aerator affixed to the bottom half. “Sticker” snouts are not acceptable. Snout recess on helmet is painted black. Stickers are not acceptable. Helmet bolts are Gray 3M bolts or other replicas with concave centers. (Visible bolt head diameter of 22mm). Optional: No visible seams on the dome. For the 'Back and Cap' style bucket constructions, the join around the top of the dome is as flush as possible. Fill this seam so it is not visible. The screen used helmets did not have a join in this area due to a different construction method I can't endorse any particular vendor but Trooperbay is quick and easy.

Nice work it looks good. If you're going for approval and not just display you'll need to a few adjustments. The forehead ovals will need to be filled in and decals/stickers used in place. Same thing goes for the nostril vents. The trapezoids on the back of the head will also need to have the detail parts removed and stickers used instead. I like the extra detail parts that make it looks more realistic and in line with what a functioning helmet would be like but since the original helmets were petty lo-tech certain details need to remain the same. Let us know if you have questions about which parts need to be adjusted and we can get you on your way. Overall very good work.

If possible post some pics when you get a chance.

It's coming together and looking good.

Steady and accurate is much better than fast and half-assed.

Congrats. Great job.

Congrats good sir.

Those 3D files were created by me so it was super easy to remove the indents. If you check the link below there's a new file uploaded for "Tank Topper No Indents" in the "Back" folder.

Boots: are a bit too dark but at the very least should be one color not two-toned. Chest & Back: Size is too small and I would also suggest about an 8-10% increase. The chest should just cover the cummerbund all the way around. A good rule of thumb is that the cummerbund should fit slightly underneath the armor but should not be visible under the side straps. It's hard to see what the strap material is made out of so I can't comment on that. Flightsuit: Agree with the changes that the GML and @Retrofire stated. Belt & Detonator: Same as above about the straps. The tubing on the detonator is a tad too long on each side. Tank Topper & Greeblie: This one I have mixed feelings about. The indented circle should be acceptable as many other kits have this same feature including the SC kit. The indent on the middle "fin" is also a feature that has been present on other kits. Not sure why this is getting called out. Cod: Same as above. It's not a very difficult fix to pull in the sides of the cod to make it a tad thinner as well as slightly stiffer. If you need access to the 3D files again, just PM me and I'll send you the link. You should be able to scale them up. You've done lots of great work and you're close to the finish line so keep working and make the adjustments and you'll soon be very happy with your final product.

Well if you feel like starting one or not, we're here to help. No judgement for language barriers, I'm sure you're perfectly fine.

If your tube is slightly smaller you might be able to print a sleeve to go between the printed parts and the tube or you could use a layer or two of shrink tubing. Just some ideas. Start a WIP page so we can watch your progress.

The main body is a 1 1/4" PVC pipe which is cut to 25" (63.5cm). The 1/2" wooden dowel for the cattle prod section is 15 3/4" (40cm).

Congrats, it's tough work.

Thanks. It's one of my goals to be able to model up the Kashy for people to make their own, since finding armor can be a bit difficult at times. I guess I'll just slowly do parts one at a time.

Is this a personal kit or for production?

Maybe Pilot Bay. Shannon is pretty good with custom work. Not sure how busy she is.

Looking good. It looks like my measurements weren't too bad. Hot damn.

Done. Obviously it's not in color but I wanted to see how it would look. There are two versions of the file. One with the rings already attached and another without so you can use rubber rings that will probably glue on better since the surface is slightly curved. Your choice. Someone with Kashyyyk boots will probably need to scale this properly since I don't have the boots I can't tell how much larger or smaller it needs to be, but all boots vary in size anyway. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ariqpgghbhq951q/AADZxE_ARA6hCSbsV-hPNZTJa?dl=0

Got some work done today. I still need to smooth out a few things but hopefully I'll get somen time tomorrow to work on it. Soon.

I haven't forgotten about this it's just taking a little bit longer than expected and "real" work has been getting in the way.

Let me see what I can do, give me a day or two.

I don't have any files specifically for the Kashyyyk but I may be able to modify another file depending on what it looks like. Can you send me a couple images of the part in question. Making models of the Kashyyyk is on my list but not near the top.

This is the best printable helmet. He even recently updated to have the ear holes cut out for 501st approval.

PM your email and I'll send you a link.