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MrPoopie

Detachment Costume Advisor
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Everything posted by MrPoopie

  1. Quick update. Finally got more velcro so I could keep working on the waist. I need to trim down the front lip of the sides so it's more flush and add a bit more velcro to the back armor but I'm pretty happy with how it all came together. The back isn't so bad when I'm not twisting and when the chest armor is in place. The biggest takeaway is that it's flexible.
  2. Another day, another chunk of work. First set of flexible sides was printed with clear TPU (what I had on hand) and then painted white. It worked out alright and will be perfectly fine wonc eit gets weathered. the second set is printing in white and looks amazing. Almost finished with the TD. I decided to adjust the model of the right side endcap so that it has the recessed detail area on the end like the Hot Toys figure has. It looks much better and also made it easier to paint since I chopped the model into parts depending on what color they are. Boot armor is moving along and I decided it as time for a test fitting to make sure things lined up properly. Still need to add more support velcro internally and fix a part that I snapped but they're coming along pretty nicely now. It's odd having so much weight and armor on my legs. I'm only used t o my 2 Scout kits which are super mobile. I guess I won't be bending down to much in these. I'll still be able t o sit which is always fun to do in front on TKs.
  3. Me as well. I think I'll make my straps vertical and print them in TPU.
  4. What kind of "ribbing" should I use for the shin strap? The promo photo (left side) looks like it doesn't have any ribbing and the Hot Toys (right side) has a dimpled effect which almost looks like it's just elastic. Neither of these sources have ribbing. I know the ArmoryShop shin strap is horizontal which doesn't really make sense. This armor is closest to the Shoretrooper shin and if ribbing is required then it seems like vertical ribbing would make the most sense. Any thoughts?
  5. Started working on the Ab section. Mainly the sides and bund to hold up the waist area as well as the belt. @MrsPoopie made me a bund harness which zips in the front for easy access. The sides, front abs, back plate and belt will all velcro to this to hold everything place and keep it from slipping. I still need to add the pads for the shoulder straps but it's basically complete as it is right now. I also started a test of the new flexible sides printed out of flexible TPU filament. I have to say this stuff is amazing once I got the printer dialed in to be able to print (lots of settings changes). Having rigid sides never seemed like the right choice for this armor. I designed this so that the back ends of each side can be cut down if you're smaller or left intact if you're larger. I'm really pleased with how it's working out so far. I mounted the side details by drilling through the side sections and attaching Chicago Screws to the plates with glue. this way the sides will still flex but the armor plates will stay in place. After my test version I updated the model so the holes are already present (Huzzah!). HOpefully I can get these painted today and start to mount everything for a proper fitting.
  6. Ahead just slightly. Although neither of us will finish without the help of the other. "Tip of the Lance" is nothing without whole Lance.
  7. Got a bit of work done today. Lots of painting. Added snaps to the boots to hold the shin armor in place, thanks @Ruthar for many suggestions which I modified to work for my build. Made new dogbone from ABS, my printed versions didn't fit my boots well enough. Installed the heel armor too. Gloves are finished but no picture right now.
  8. How much filament and time did that black "part" take? Looks a little rough around the edges.
  9. But that's why we have these sweet batons.
  10. Gotta keep you from winning the race somehow.
  11. Yup. @BikerScout007 and I are building from my models at the same time. Friendly competition and sharing of resources.
  12. It'll probably just end up as variant of the original Mando Scout. This makes me much happier though seeing it less dirty. Still not gonna get over those knees and cummerbund though. Ugh.
  13. I originally had 3D printed Blaster holster but decided I'd try to see if I could cut and bend some ABS to make a sturdier version. Success.
  14. Ultimately as long as there's a recessed area it should work.
  15. Chest and back glued together. The back lined up really well, the Chest however will need significant filling in the center but otherwise in happy with the details. Added some reinforcements out of scrap ABS to get the chest to line up properly.
  16. See the picture below. There is a similar oval on the Forearms as well. We mainly use the Hot Toys figure since it has the best details and lets us see places that the promo pics didn't cover. Let me know if you have any other detail questions.
  17. Move it 1/4" to the left and I think you're on target. I agree, maybe closer in rectangle shape like the Scout than the Shore.
  18. Hard to judge measurements but I h=guess that blue tape is 1' tape. I would bring it in just a tiny bit on the width then, maybe another 1/4"-1/2". It's really just a judgement call to see if it looks similar to the figure. Thoughts, anyone else?
  19. I would scale it down slightly, try to get closer to 2.5" wide and 0.5" like the Shore Trooper and also make sure it's perpendicular with the bottom edge.
  20. Yes, it's never done to dissuade people but more to get things as accurate as possible for everyone's benefit. I've spent a couple hundred hours making my own Patrol Trooper models and staring at every tiny detail of this armor and I still miss things too. Extra sets of eyes and input from others is always welcome. It all comes down to the fact that we want to look as accurate and uniform as possible. If either of you guys has any questions feel free to PM me at any time.
  21. That would be great. Having as many accurate model kits as possible helps everyone. I have his original models as well. If he's able to correct the original models just give me a shout and I'll update the breakdown post with any new info.
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