BikerScout007

Hey Scouts! Some BIG changes in the CRL concerning the Thermal Detonator. For years we've held to the "rectangle greeblie on the left, prongs up, circle on the right" configuration. This was based on the Speeder bike chase Scout, which for years had the clearest views of the thermal detonator: But thanks to more sources, especially from high definition video, we've seen several different configurations of the thermal detonator and it's not possible to say there is only one way to do it. Now I have always believed that is it perfectly fine for the Detachment to set a standard for the costume that might be contradicted in a split second shot in the film; but in the case of the thermal detonator, they really are all over the place. The only Scout where we can say for certain that the TD is the way we've called for in the past IS the blue screen speeder bike Scout. This was especially clear after compiling the Scoutopedia. (And if you haven't checked it out yet, the link is http://www.501stpathfinders.com/scoutopedia.php) Looking at all the differing configurations of the TD in the film, the Armor Team was able to narrow it down to two rules: "The thermal detonator face has a long side and a short side" AND "The rectangle greeblie goes on the long side and the circle greeblie goes on the short side." Whether the prongs are up or down or the long side is on the left or right, the rules above held true. So today we have changed the CRL to reflect this. Changes in blue below: Thermal Detonator Thermal detonator box with a short gray hose that protrudes evenly from both ends. Hose is either corrugated or wire-wrapped. Hose is painted medium to light gray. Hose is capped off on both sides with two white, circular caps. On either end of hose is a black drill-style belt clip used to attach detonator to main belt. The face of the thermal detonator has a short side and a long side: On the long side is a black rectangular thermal detonator greeblie, either prongs up or prongs down; On the short side is a round black greeblie; If thermal detonator face is symmetrical (sides are even), greeblies may go on either side. Detonator box is gloss white or semi-gloss and may be lightly weathered. Now we realize that a few armor makers have made symmetrical TDs despite them not being that way in the film. The third bullet point allows for this. If you have one of these, your greeblies may go on either side, in either configuration. HOWEVER -- for level 2 we are no longer allowing symmetrical TDs. Your TD must have a long side and a short side. Please see the change to L2 language below: OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Thermal Detonator end caps are concave and not flat. Thermal Detonator face must have a short side and a long side; symmetrical TDs are not permitted. As with all L2 changes, the Level 2 team will allow a few months' grace period for folks in the middle of a Lancer build. If you feel this will be an issue for you, please let the Level 2 team know when you submit. As far as we know, this would affect WTF, Kropserkel and MonCal kits. There may be others, which we will list in the post below: I hope this all makes sense! Any questions, please let me know! EDIT: Here's a handy guide that @Chopper put together. This has been uploaded to the CRL gallery and linked to the CRL text.

You're all set. Congrats, Scout!

Well it's only needed for Level 2. So he technically doesn't need it until he puts in his Lancer app. Which I hope he plans on doing!

Excellent! Glad we could help. Get out there and make us proud!

You'll want to get a little closer, but you are almost there!

You've got the shirt and pants from IB so you are all good on undersuit!

Awesome! Looking forward to your build process. Just curious -- what is the Scuba suit for?

Totally up to you! We are happy to help shepherd you through the process but I'm sure you'll get some great advice over at UKG too.

With the boots I've had, the vinyl always peels back enough that you can still access the laces if you need to. But I mostly leave mine untied.

You don't need to measure to place them. We have a ton of reference photos you can look at to help with placement: http://www.501stpathfinders.com/scoutopedia.php I usually leave my boots untied, they seem to stay on. I've never had to do anything with the vinyl covering to keep them on. Hiking boots usually have a pretty snug ankle and that's always worked for me in the past. Are you having an issue keeping them on?

Ah well that's a shame, because at least from the front, the Version 2 armor looks so much better. But if you can't make it work, you can't make it work. Looking at production references, you can see that the neckline for the front and back armor are a lot closer to the wearer's neck than the SC armor sits right out of the box. So you have some shoulder strapping you can remove to bring that up a bit. I'd experiment with it with tape to figure out where to cut. As for the sides, there's no set distance they need to be apart according to the CRL. Sure, they shouldn't be touching, but they don't need to be "X" distance apart. There's made to be some play there for when you hop on and off your speeder bike. I'd just carefully remove a bit of it at a time with the Lexan scissors until you've got it just right. SC shoulder bells are always too long; we all end up trimming at least an inch off the bottoms. There's also usually a little bit of plastic on the bicep that can be removed as long as you mind the slot for the elastic strap. Check out the reference photos below!

You ordered that kit new? it looks like the old Studio Creations armor kit -- which is indeed very big and not well suited to you. Their newer kit would probably be a better fit. Your vest sleeves should come about an inch below the shoulder bells. But your shoulder bells need to be trimmed first so I wouldn't mess with them too much yet. There are a lot of reference photos in the Scoutopedia that can give you an idea of proportions http://www.501stpathfinders.com/scoutopedia.php

We only launched it a few weeks ago

Unless you are doing the Mandalorian Scout specifically, I would avoid the WTF armor. SC is way more accurate to ROTJ and doesn't have any major hurdles to achieving Level 2, should you choose to do that.

Badge awarded. Well done!

On behalf of Pathfinders Command, it is my pleasure to welcome Jill "jwnikita" Olsen (TB-71411) to the illustrious ranks of the Lancer scouts! Great job, @jwnikita!! Please post a picture of your coolest pose in this thread for addition to the Pathfinders Hall of Fame. If not, I will take a pic from your application. Check out TB-71411's application here: (and no, this is not an April Fools prank!)

Boiling worked for me. Give it a shot!

Incredible work, man!

If you want to look at photos of a lot of screen used costumes, please check out the Scoutopedia! http://www.501stpathfinders.com/scoutopedia.php

Hi-Tec Sierras are the originals. I know -- I run ST6.

Ironically, he joined ST6 first before coming over here

Yep!

Easiest would be to just put mesh on the chest area like is done with a lot of the Shoretrooper tops

Glyn Dillon -- the costume designer on the new films. He's been very open with us.

Yup we reached out to Glyn like we always do. As long as it can't be seen from the outside as with the actual trooper, you can wear whatever you want. Neck seal. Scarf. Hoodie. Inflatable neck pillow.