BikerScout007

THIS EXACTLY. Can't tell you how many times troopers with giant rolling totes get stacked up at an escalator and I just pick my bin up, lift it over my head, and go around them. Ain't nobody got time for that. For the times when I do need to roll it, I just bought a cheap dolly from Home Depot for $25. But my entire kit fits in that bin, including the helmet, and plenty of room for trading cards, blasters and other trooping necessities.

Should be fine. I've been using one of these since 2014: https://www.zoro.com/sterilite-blackred-storage-tote-25-34-in-x-17-14-in-x-11-78-in-h-1-pk-14649006/i/G8179309/

Do you mean the Officer from Battlefront 2? Currently there's only one of those in the whole Legion -- me! So I'd love to have the company. The Officer is largely the Captain from Rogue One with two part swaps. Here are my threads for both: My Officer is a blend of 3d printed and purchased ABS kit. Any questions, ask!

@MrPoopie?

Those look very nice and close to the screen used too

Yeah the Mountain Troopers were originally intended for TROS. Well thanks for taking one for the team -- I've purchased enough of these books already

Welcome, Rob! My own Shoretrooper is an Imperial Surplus: Hope that helps!

$40....sheesh.

I think we ran this down already right? Didn't @heartstopper85 say there wasn't?

Great job, Christina!

I believe WTF is working on something soft for the midsection. You may want to contact them Also @MrPoopiewas experimenting with 3d printing a flexible plastic for the midsection

Here are the Boot requirements for the Patrol Trooper according to the CRL: Boots Black leather or faux leather riding boots. Armor plating placed behind the heel ("heel guard"), over the top of the foot ("dogbone"), and over the toe portion ("toe armor"). Heel guard has opposite diagonal cut at both ends. Dogbone is attached to the boot with a strap passing under the boot's sole. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Light weathering required Spanish cut tops required. Boots have rear zippers. Boots have snap closures above the zipper. Optional: Boots have rear elastic gussets running alongside the zipper. Dogbone strap is between 1-1.5 inches. You will notice for Level 1, there are no requirements regarding the zipper. That means it can be anywhere. The only requirement we have is for a rear zipper for Level 2. Stick to our CRLs -- the CRLs for other costumes don't apply to us.

https://www.facebook.com/ILMVFX/posts/3932365863506819 We lost a giant today. Ira Keeler was a model maker and sculptor at ILM back during its glory days, and as many of you know, had a giant role in creating the Biker Scout armor. In fact, legend has it the whole reason the holster was riveted to the boot was because Ira was rushing to get it on before George Lucas came by to inspect the new costume! I know a few of you got to meet him and he was always glad to talk about his role in the Star Wars universe. Rest in Power, Mr. Keeler.

Those look incredible, Gio!

My magnet is inside of my boot where it can't be seen from the outside

List edited to add Chinese Garrison ART. Welcome to the roster! And I love that patch design!

It looks great man! You are making great progress on this. I am way behind on drafting this CRL!

We don't know what it was so we don't specify in the CRL. We only specify exact colors when we have the information. Just looking at sources, seems to be in the mid to dark range.

It can be tough sometimes finding green reflective lenses. Snow boarding lens might be a good place to start. I had to make a green reflective lens for another costume and I just ended up buying green reflective tint to go over a regular lens. I'll tag @Jakeputt on this thread. he's one of our resident Kashy experts.

Sounds like a reasonable guess.

We don't have an exact measurement because none of us have been fortunate enough to hold a tape measure up to an original costume. All we can do is eyeball it and the boxes sit fairly close to the belt. I've seen scouts that have their dropboxes half way down their thigh and the evidence does not support that:

I get it's a change, but it doesn't need to be confusing. We looked at every detonator we could when compiling our photos for the Scoutopedia and two things stood out: The thermal detonator has a long side and short side: the rectangle goes on the long, the circle goes on the short. It's a pretty simple rule and covers every variant we saw. We are hoping that this rule change will help encourage the few armor makers with symmetrical TDs to fix their designs, as well as allow for the various setups seen in the production.

Hey Scouts! Some BIG changes in the CRL concerning the Thermal Detonator. For years we've held to the "rectangle greeblie on the left, prongs up, circle on the right" configuration. This was based on the Speeder bike chase Scout, which for years had the clearest views of the thermal detonator: But thanks to more sources, especially from high definition video, we've seen several different configurations of the thermal detonator and it's not possible to say there is only one way to do it. Now I have always believed that is it perfectly fine for the Detachment to set a standard for the costume that might be contradicted in a split second shot in the film; but in the case of the thermal detonator, they really are all over the place. The only Scout where we can say for certain that the TD is the way we've called for in the past IS the blue screen speeder bike Scout. This was especially clear after compiling the Scoutopedia. (And if you haven't checked it out yet, the link is http://www.501stpathfinders.com/scoutopedia.php) Looking at all the differing configurations of the TD in the film, the Armor Team was able to narrow it down to two rules: "The thermal detonator face has a long side and a short side" AND "The rectangle greeblie goes on the long side and the circle greeblie goes on the short side." Whether the prongs are up or down or the long side is on the left or right, the rules above held true. So today we have changed the CRL to reflect this. Changes in blue below: Thermal Detonator Thermal detonator box with a short gray hose that protrudes evenly from both ends. Hose is either corrugated or wire-wrapped. Hose is painted medium to light gray. Hose is capped off on both sides with two white, circular caps. On either end of hose is a black drill-style belt clip used to attach detonator to main belt. The face of the thermal detonator has a short side and a long side: On the long side is a black rectangular thermal detonator greeblie, either prongs up or prongs down; On the short side is a round black greeblie; If thermal detonator face is symmetrical (sides are even), greeblies may go on either side. Detonator box is gloss white or semi-gloss and may be lightly weathered. Now we realize that a few armor makers have made symmetrical TDs despite them not being that way in the film. The third bullet point allows for this. If you have one of these, your greeblies may go on either side, in either configuration. HOWEVER -- for level 2 we are no longer allowing symmetrical TDs. Your TD must have a long side and a short side. Please see the change to L2 language below: OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Thermal Detonator end caps are concave and not flat. Thermal Detonator face must have a short side and a long side; symmetrical TDs are not permitted. As with all L2 changes, the Level 2 team will allow a few months' grace period for folks in the middle of a Lancer build. If you feel this will be an issue for you, please let the Level 2 team know when you submit. As far as we know, this would affect WTF, Kropserkel and MonCal kits. There may be others, which we will list in the post below: I hope this all makes sense! Any questions, please let me know! EDIT: Here's a handy guide that @Chopper put together. This has been uploaded to the CRL gallery and linked to the CRL text.

You're all set. Congrats, Scout!

Well it's only needed for Level 2. So he technically doesn't need it until he puts in his Lancer app. Which I hope he plans on doing!