BikerScout007

Okay I've begun filling in some of the Level 2 details. Feel free to chime in with more suggestions.

You're right about the top rivet. I thought he meant the bottom rivet that is on the ROTJ tank.

Your 3 bullet points are totally in line with what we are going for -- except for the third one. We already have no rivet requirement for the tank. Color matching weathering would be tougher. Especially with how color corrected the show is. A general "weathering matches screen sources" is probably as far as we'll go with it. Even if there was a difference in the EC-17s from the Mandalorian and ROTJ, it probably wouldn't make it to the CRL. There are no two scout blasters that are the same and none that we call the "definitive" one. For the ROTJ scout we just ask that the details are the same as on screen (no triggers, no drilled scopes) etc. and the same would go here.

Well I'd have to know exactly what they did for the show to see if we would include things like t-straps I suppose I could always just ask Walt

Great! I'll draft with that version in mind. As for the helmet type.... FOTKs aren't really my specialty. I had some folks note it was based off the TLJ trooper but I can't verify. Personally, that seems like an L2 detail to me.

No specifications as in "3mm to the left, .5 mm to the right." Eyeballing it should be fine. Use the Scoutopedia to look at film references instead of other fanmade helmets, though: http://www.501stpathfinders.com/scoutopedia.php

So I think to get the ball rolling on this: In the spirit of our ROTJ Scout CRL, what we do for level 2 mostly is specify exact measurements and the like. So whereas Level 1 will say "use elastic for the arm", Level 2 will say what size to use: "use 1/2 inch elastic". Are there any exact measurements we can use for our Level 2 Mando Scout?

Do you know what version you want to do? Because there is the production costume version and then there is the CGI version, which got more screen time as far as I can tell: I have no preference, but let's pick one so we know which to focus on. There are some small differences between the two, mostly from the waist down. The CGI trooper also seems to have some fins on his forearm armor that I don't see on the actual costume version

Not sure. It's been floating around this forum for a long time though.

Excellent! Let's get this CRL done

You can't beat doing it the way it was done for the film. Those costume designers knew what they were doing!

This is the only picture we have of the undershirt without armor on it. And one sleeve is missing: @KOtrooper made her own shirt, so maybe she has some thoughts?

I plan on doing a tutorial for the codpiece soon, since I want to remake mine, but the build method is pretty simple: 1. Using the dimensions outlined above (leaving some room for the seam allowance), just cut out two identical pieces of smooth cotton-like fabric (so not duck cloth, canvas or twill) 2. Stitch the two pieces together, leaving the top and bottom open. 3. Turn it inside out. 4. Insert batting AND a fabric stabilizer (such as buckram) that fills the interior of the cod. This will keep you from getting the "cod crunchies". 5. Close the top seam 6. Sew in the crescent 7. Insert the 2 inch elastic at the bottom and sew it shut. Use a long piece of elastic. I can't tell you how many crumpled cods could be avoided if folks would just use a really long piece of elastic instead of the thong-like ones I see. Mine is two feet long. So it connects comfortably to the back of my vest without flossing my....what-have-yous. 8. Attach to the rest of your costume how you see fit: To the vest, as I have To the flight suit To the cummerbund (though this is the least effective way to do it and puts too much downward pressure on the bund, as well as restricting movement).

Okay here are some pics: 1. Top to bottom length is approximately 16 inches. Your mileage may vary based on the length of your torso. 2. Width at the top: Approximately 12 inches. 3. Width at the bottom: Approximately 2.5 inches 4. Width at crescent -- approximately 6 inches. 5. In the back, I put a parachute clip to attach the strap. The elastic strap should be long -- about two feet.

Hi Chris! There isn't a codpiece tutorial yet. That one is a little tougher because there are several different ways the codpiece gets attached to the costume. I do it like it was in the film, so my codpiece is sewed to the bottom edge of my vest and then the 2 inch elastic strap connects to the vest in the back. So yes that meant making the codpiece very high. Which it seems to be in the film. Some people use velcro to attach the codpiece to the flight suit. Some attach it to the cummerbund with velcro. And the old way of doing, before we really discovered the film method, was to sew the codpiece to the bottom edge of the bund. Though you can do a reasonable imitation of the costume like that, it's the least effective way to do it. Give me a few minutes and I'll take some pictures of my set up

3M tape and things that can't be seen from the outside would never be part of the CRL -- Lancer or otherwise. I agree overall that the CRL is already at a high standard and many of you would probably already meet the Level 2 standards. There's probably a few details we can add to bump up the accuracy a notch and that's what the focus will be here. Given the ad hoc nature of the Scouts on the show, it may be difficult to nail down further "accuracy" but we can give it a shot. Some of you have worked very hard on your builds so being able to reward you with Level 2 badges is definitely something I want to shoot for.

Required Costume Components The following costume components are present and appear as described below. Helmet Gloss white or semi-gloss. Moderate to heavy desert-brown toned weathering. Lens is black in color and obscures wearer’s eyes. Decals are screen accurate. Snout greeblie is medium gray and the aerator portion is painted black. Inner edge of snout recess is black. Bolts are either flat or have concave centers. Helmet is true to the shape of screen-used helmet. Earholes are cut out - mesh or paint is not acceptable: Area behind earholes inside the helmet is blacked out, either with paint or tape. No interior white should show from the outside of the helmet when worn. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Weathering adheres to production sources. Snout greeblie is screen-accurate: it is an elongated plate with a rounded top, with a detail modeled after a Yamaha XS1100LG model motorcycle engine and sink aerator affixed to the bottom half. “Sticker” snouts are not acceptable. Helmet bolts are Gray 3M bolts or other replicas with concave centers. (Visible bolt head diameter of 22mm). Optional: For the 'Back and Cap' style bucket constructions, fill the seam around the top of the dome so it is not visible. Balaclava A balaclava is a black head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide any view of the wearer’s skin and/or facial hair. Flight Suit The undersuit is a TIE Fighter pilot-style flight suit. One piece black coverall/jumpsuit/flight suit with a front invisible zipper. Approximately 1.5" (38.1mm) tall mandarin collar with a chevron shaped, left-over-right Velcro closure. On the left bicep there is a code cylinder pocket with no flap, and vertical stitching dividing it into pen sleeves: The bottom front corner of the pocket is cut off at a bevel on the side pointing in view direction, with the broader upside forming the border of the pen sleeves. The right sleeve has a cargo pocket, approximately 6" (152mm) wide and 5.75" (146mm) on the bicep: The pocket has a 2" (50.8mm) flap. (2) large chest pockets (optional as covered by chest armor) and (2) large front pockets below the belt, without any zipper or flaps. (2) leg pockets with flaps, similar in proportion as the right arm sleeve pocket. If Imperial Cogs are present on the shoulders, they are covered by the shoulder armor and not visible. Neck Seal Black with horizontal ribs. Conceals the entire neck. Fitted to the wearer. Shoulder Armor Gloss white or semi-gloss. Moderate to heavy desert-brown toned weathering. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around upper arm. These pieces are free of any adornment. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Weathering adheres to production sources. Black elastic measures either 3/4 or 1 inch and is ribbed. Upper Arm Armor Gloss white or semi-gloss. Moderate to heavy desert-brown toned weathering. Armor has a recessed area with a “t-bit” detail attached within. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around upper arm. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Weathering adheres to production sources. Black elastic measures either 3/4 or 1 inch and is ribbed. Forearm Armor Gloss white or semi-gloss. Moderate to heavy desert-brown toned weathering. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around forearm. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Weathering adheres to production sources. Black elastic measures either 3/4 or 1 inch and is ribbed. Gloves Black leather and gauntlet length. Glove details include: Black suede or faux suede patches on top of the middle finger, index finger and thumb. Four tightly spaced ribs that span the knuckles. No external labels or logos. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Gauntlets fit wearer's arm snugly and do not flare. OPTIONAL: Glove clips have not been removed. Chest Armor Gloss white or semi-gloss. Moderate to heavy desert-brown toned weathering. There is a recessed rectangular area present over the right breast that is painted a medium to dark gray. The sides of the chest armor attach to the back armor with white elastic or webbing. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Weathering adheres to production sources. Chest straps are white elastic and measure either 1.5 or 2 inches, depending on the height of the chest strap opening on the armor. The elastic should completely fill the opening. Back Armor Gloss white or semi-gloss. Moderate to heavy desert-brown toned weathering. The back armor has a center tank attached. The top of the tank is flat with a detail piece painted black: Top detail piece uses the same greeblies as seen on the screen-used armor. Top detail piece has a red line detail. OPTIONAL: The tank may or may not have a black stripe detail. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Weathering adheres to production sources. Greeblie is affixed to the top of the tank with a silver rivet. Cummerbund, Codpiece and Pouches Cummerbund: Made from white fabric. Weathered in similar style to armor. Closes in back with 2" (50mm) hook and loop fastener. Closure is right-over-left. Visible gap between the chest armor and top of cummerbund. Visible below the scout’s belt. Front of cummerbund has 5 ribs of equal width made of 6 vertical stitch lines, centered between the two fabric pouches. Codpiece: Tapered codpiece has a sewn inverted curve detail. Black elastic strap connects codpiece between the legs to either the back of the cummerbund or the flight suit. Weathered in similar style to armor. Pouches: Pouches are white or off-white. Weathered in similar style to armor. Attached to the cummerbund. Droop over the scout’s belt or are worn with the belt over top of them. May be worn with the flat end facing the ribs, or reversed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Weathering adheres to production sources. Cummerbund and codpiece are made of a smooth cotton material (not duck cloth, canvas or twill). Cummerbund ribs are 1 inch apart. There is an extra stitch running down the middle of the outside velcro cummerbund fastener. Pouches measure 6x5x2 inches. Pouches are made of duck cloth or similar heavy material. Belt Gloss white or semi-gloss. Moderate to heavy desert-brown toned weathering. The belt fastener is made from white webbing material: Belt fasteners are attached with one (1) 1⁄8 inch silver rivet on either end of the plastic belt. Two plastic hip boxes (“drop boxes”) hang from the sides of the belt. Drop boxes connect to the belt via white webbing straps. Drop box indents are painted the same color as chest indent. (4) black parachute buckles attach to the drop box straps, one on either side of the drop box: Rear parachute buckles are threaded with the white webbing straps in front of the buckle. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Weathering adheres to production sources. Drop box straps measure 1.5 inches. Optional: Drop box straps are white polypro. Thermal Detonator Gloss white or semi-gloss. Moderate to heavy desert-brown toned weathering. Thermal detonator box with short corrugated hose attaches to the back of the belt: May be attached by clips or zip ties. The correct thermal detonator greeblies are attached to the box: The rectangular part of the thermal detonator greeblie is the same as used in the Rebel Endor trooper rank badge. The round greeblie is the same used on the Scout tank topper. The greeblies may be attached on either side of the detonator housing. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Weathering adheres to production sources. Knee Armor Gloss white or semi-gloss. Moderate to heavy desert-brown toned weathering. Black elastic is used to secure the armor around the leg. Worn upside-down. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Weathering adheres to production sources. Black elastic measures either 3/4 or 1 inch and is ribbed. Boots White with moderate to heavy desert-brown toned weathering. The soles of the boot are tan. A “dog bone” shaped strap covers the bridge of the foot. Dog bones have double stitching along the rounded edges as seen in the series. The boots are secured up the back using 1" (25mm) white hook and loop fastener. The calf of the boot rises to just slightly underneath the bottom of the knee armor. Left boot closure is left-over-right. Right boot closure is right-over-left. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Weathering adheres to production sources. Boot coverings are made of white marine vinyl. Dogbone length is such that it overlaps onto the sole of the boot on both sides. Boots have a single-colored sole. Holster Gloss white or semi-gloss. Moderate to heavy desert-brown toned weathering. Attached to the outside of the right boot with 1⁄8 inch rivets or similarly-sized Chicago screws. The blaster pistol fits into the holster. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Weathering adheres to production sources. Optional Accessories Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use. Hold-out Blaster Flat or semi-gloss black. Blaster does not have any visible trigger. Blaster is lightly weathered. Tote Bag Khaki British P37 Pack-styled bag. Strap replaced with Military Double Prong Canvas Belt. A silver plate is attached to the lower right portion of the bag flap. Mounted on the plate are 3 push button-style greeblies: The two outer buttons have red covers. The center button is white. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Weathering adheres to production sources.

Sorry for the delay, needed to clear out some stuff first! Let's do this! @Zeronin @bobafett4ever -- feel free to join in. I'll start a post for this.

As far as I know there hasn't been one done with the bikerchick helmet. I believe the flip ups were Mr Bungle helmets. Not sure if you can still find them out in the wild

The bottom rivet isn't supposed to go through both pieces. It's there to hold the elastic in place. So you are fine

Cricket...cricket...

In addition to what Chopper just said... I recently just redid my wire for my TD, because I was unhappy with the medium gray color I used AND -- like Chopper said above, the solvent in the paint reacted with the rubber in the cord and was super tacky and left paint marks everywhere. It was a mess. I found a different paint that looked more along the lines of that 80s gray-beige telecommunications wire color (Rustoleum Satin Stone Gray). So I applied it and... same issue. Got real sticky and wouldn't settle on the wire. Color was great though. So this time I took one additional step: I clear coated it with a satin clear coat. Stickiness is gone and the TD is totally workable now. So don't forget the clear coat!

Just remember for the Mando Scout you need a TIE fighter pilot undersuit, which differs from the suit used by the ROTJ Scout. @StephTrooper specializes in Mando Scout soft goods, and she was the one that made them for the TV show.

As for black paint, that's something best asked over at Spec Ops. They are the experts when it comes to black armor! We pretty much stick to white and beige around here. https://specops501st.com/

Thanks! Have no idea what the rules are on these