BikerScout007

I haven't come into contact with one of Walt's lids yet. If you want to get an idea of what all the helmets and armor look like together, give this thread a look http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=17774

Altmann, RS and KS are probably your best bets for big domes. Strider's lid is on its way to production soon too

Utterly speechless. Just chatted with him a few days ago. Jim was always kind and polite and so helpful teaching others the ropes. Buckets off

They ship quick from what I remember. Quality product too

That one looks fine to me. As long as it breathes well so you don't get too hot, you'll be fine!

Just go slow. The seams are very tough on the pockets, particularly the corners, and it's almost impossible not to make a small hole here and there. These don't really go noticed once you suit up! When sewing the suede, you need to open the leg on the opposite side so you can lay the inside flat. And then you can take in some of the leg's bagginess when you attach the elastic and sew it back up

Totally works for me, we can always revisit this.

I can't say you don't make a great case.

Shoot my man a message http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showuser=78307

Welcome to the Pathfinder forum!

I'm all in.

I have the Arrow rivet gun, nothing special https://www.homedepot.com/p/Arrow-Fastener-Professional-Rivet-Tool-RH200S/100097261 And you'll need 1/8 rivets and rivet washers for everything. Just in silver, no white needed!

I'm 100% with Stroker on this. I think MC is the second most accurate kit you can get, and with such a long wait time and other drawbacks, why not go with the best?

The more I stare at it the more I think you're probably right!

Great question! I would think that because they need to reapply to get back in the 501st they'd need to reapply for Lancer as well.

Interesting. I don't see the white circle on that one either!

3/4 seems right https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5bU7TNBGsXOWUI0QjJKcFowZDg/view?usp=drivesdk Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

All good dude. We did some major CRL clean up in the last year and sometimes a few things slip through the cracks. We are definitely not trying to make this HARDER for anyone hahaha

Everything looks good on the 501st.com CRL other than the knee strapping: "The upper strap is 15mm (5/8") wide and is riveted to the top sides of the knee armor. The lower strap is 20mm (3/4") wide and passes through the lower sides of the knee armor." I always thought we said lower strap as 1 inch, but if it's 3/4s it's 3/4s. The real problem is the 5/8 -- that should definitely be 1/2 inch. I think that's the only one that's off. All the other 1 3/8s etc. seemed to have already been cleaned up!

Is this true? Do we ever see a tank top in the film where the strap can't be seen? As far as I knew, the way the screen costumes were constructed with the back piece completely flat, all of the tanks were strapped on that way.

There are some bad metric to imperial translations in the CRL. I always just round to the nearest half inch. the difference between 1 3/8 and and 1.5 is 1/8th of an inch. Imperceptible to the human eye.

Yeah this is something I have thought about doing as well. Maybe a list of requirements for highest screen accuracy (armor, techniques, etc.) Nothing that is official but just for fun.

Level 3 is something I have been for in the past and the other guys had to talk me down from. Pathfinder tradition is that we only have 2 levels. And like Tim said, some of those level 3 requirements, particularly the boots, would be killer. Personally, I would like to see higher Lancer requirements than a Level 3, but that's a whole other can of worms!

This topic has come up quite a few times in the past and since Legion tradition has always been "once you're in, you're in" it just wouldn't seem right to make it a requirement. But there is nothing stopping you from continuing to improve. Constantin, Shaun, myself and a few others have gone beyond Lancer to as Screen Accurate as we can get. We'd be happy for you to join us!

Also it doesn't really matter what length of ziptie you're going to use. I leave enough for about 1.5 inches to span the distance between the edge of the bell and the shoulder bridge and then cut off the rest