BikerScout007

Got some Coyote Brown nylon webbing off eBay to make the belt. Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

We didn't specify in the CRL because we don't know for sure. But most likely we'll put 1/2 inch for Level 2 when it's drafted.

It can be up to an inch wide, that is correct. Any distance you need for a proper fit is to be found in the side chest straps. Those can be as long as needed. But the top shoulder straps should really touch each other, the cover is just to hide the seam where they join. It's not like a TK or Shoretrooper where there is a large gap between front and back armor.

There aren't many makers out there though I understand Sean Fields may be working on a 3d printable version Did you check this?

Well done!

To my eye it looks like 1/2 inch.

Those look great! They have the Spanish cut tops and no zippers, which is what the Level 2 requirement will be once it's drafted. EDIT: After further examination of the Hot Toys, it looks like the boots have rear zippers.

Dickies will work. You just need to make sure the pockets are hidden and that you've added the trim down the legs. Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

As Detachment Leader, I try to avoid making endorsements of anyone's props, but I'd like to direct you to this thread if you haven't seen it already: Others will chime in soon enough with their favorites, I'm sure!

You can check with some of the vendors we have listed on our Vendors list but it seems a lot of folks are 3D printing them.

We haven't turned anyone down because the button was on the wrong side, but all evidence suggests the button should be on the left. It is possible to "move" it if you aren't happy with it being on the right.

Hey Becca! An SC helmet tutorial is one of the most requested things folks ask for, and unfortunately we still don't have a good, top-to-bottom one. There are just bits and pieces found in various threads. Best thing to do is reach out to Jeff at SC and ask for his tutorial. He has sent it to folks who have asked in the past. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/profile/104-studiocreations/ Also, just to give you an idea of what you are in store for, you can check out the Kropserkel build video. They aren't exactly the same, but SC and KS are more similar in build to each other than other helmets: We also have a new member who is currently working on an SC -- you can check out her build photos in this thread Otherwise, just comb through the threads in this forum for little tidbits! And don't be afraid to post pictures and ask questions. We are here for you

Yup get yourself some scrap ABS and a can of acetone. It can work miracles.

Are they a: Black, loose-fitting, cotton type material? Do they have no visible pockets or belt loops? Do they have a white narrow vertical stripe trim on the outside of each leg? If so, then they are fine for Basic. However, that stripe is in the wrong place. It should be along the seam running down the length of the pant leg.

My SC came with a sticker so I just used that. On my Strider kit I painted it flat red. It's not going to affect basic or Lancer as long as the color is close

We don't handle approvals here at the Detachments, that is done by the individual Garrisons . So it is really hard to say what may or may not have slipped by. If you can find a corduroy fabric that meets the requirements of the CRL, then you should be fine for basic.

I did the strapping for the chest and back. Test fit was a success! Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

This is a post I've been meaning to write for a long time, but with Imperial Boots releasing their Scout soft parts, it seems like now is a good time. I hope this can work as a guide for anyone making Scout soft parts. I've always believed that this costume really rises or falls based on the quality of the soft goods used. The armor pieces have to look the part as well, but the Scout really is a soft costume when it comes down to it. Don't believe me? Let us quote the creator himself, Mr. Nilo Rodis-Jamero: "If you look at the outfit, it's mostly cloth. It appears to be hard, but it's not." So you can make your armor as perfect as possible, but if the soft goods look bad, it brings the entire thing down. The key to it is proportion. If you can get the torso proportions correct, you've gone most of the way toward screen accuracy. To my eye, if you divide your torso into thirds, and make sure the main pieces fit within those portions, you'll have a great looking Scout. Check out this picture: Top third The chest armor. Ideally, the chest armor should stop at the bottom of your pectorals. In the past, some of the chest armors were too large (think KS or old SC), so that made this tough without some modifications, usually by removing some shoulder strap. But at the end of the day, this thing should fit more like a bra than a chest plate. I don't have much to say about the vest, because so much of it is hidden by the armor. Make sure the sleeves don't get bunched up by the shoulder bell straps --- loose shoulder bell straps are key. The zipties are what should support the bells, not the straps. Those are just to stabilize the bell. Middle third Cummerbund, pouches and belt. Do I need to say this? The cummerbund is a cummerbund, not a tube top. It should not wrap the entire Scout's torso like a tortilla. By our estimates at looking at all available photos, the cummerbund is between 8 and 9 inches tall. It was made from a polished white cotton in the film. It ends at the belt, and the bottom of the pouches line up with the bottom of the bund. Here are some more photos, since folks seem to have a hard time believing how short the bund actually is. And from the rear. So now that we have that clear, can I never see a cummerbund constructed like this again? This is what your cummerbund should look like: The pouches (6x5x2) were made of canvas and fit in the gap between the bottom of the chest armor and the top of the belt. In the film they have a tendency to hang over the belt, but this is caused by the belt riding up on the Scout. We say as a rule of thumb that the pouches should start 1 inch from the outermost rib on the bund, but really, if you look at the movie, the outer edge of the pouch lines up with the outer edge of the chest armor. The belt should be worn on the Scout's waist, which is the narrowest portion of your torso between your ribs and your hips, right around the belly button area. Think about where you grandfather wears his pants and this should give you a good idea. The Scout above is also a good demonstration of where the belt should be. You can see it has slid up a bit and twisted to the side, probably from multiple takes of him running after Han Solo. Bottom third The codpiece. The codpiece starts out wide and tapers as it reaches the groin area. Very little of it actually goes between the Scout's legs and it does not pull tightly against the Scout's body. It was made of polished white cotton. A fabric stabilizer such as buckram should be put inside of it (along with some batting for depth) in order to keep it from crumpling. The strap should also be long enough that it doesn't pull tightly against the groin area. I have seen a glut of codpieces that come straight down on the sides. I've seen no evidence of this in the films. They all seem to start wide and taper down in a tongue-like shape. In the film, the codpiece was sewn to the bottom of the vest. A lot of Scouts like to attach it to the back of the cummerbund or onto the flight suit. All of these are fine, but I do not advise sewing it to the bottom of the cummerbund. That's going to give you the wrong look unless you get all your proportions perfect, and even then, it will make it hard to move around. What we are are trying to avoid is the codpiece looking like a pantie or a jock strap! Finally the curved detail. It's not quite a rainbow, and it's not quite a chevron -- it's a blend of both. Basically you have two straight lines that curve at the top, and then go straight down again. The closest thing I can compare it to is a boomerang. When I made my codpiece, I drew the two sets of lines going up with a ruler, and then I freehanded the curve on my sewing machine. That gave the best result. So remember the rule of the thirds! Use this and you will be well on your way to a Lancer class Scout. I will add to this as necessary.

Okay once i looked on my PC I could see the difference. Looks like the problem is I have polypro strapping and not nylon In the meantime, I made a closure for the ab Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

You must have a finer eyes for these details than I do, I'm not really seeing it.

How about this? I used a wider stitch and tried two different levels of tightness. Tighter in the middle, looser on the end. Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

Are we really getting that nitpicky on webbing where we are examining weaves? That seems like a standard the Legion wouldn't go for. So it should be a wider zig zag?

It's raining in Los Angeles, so painting is out. I decided to take a stab at the belt. I have tons of brown 1.5 inch webbing from other projects, so I did a test zig zag stitch. Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

Most of those look fairly terrible, and the use of the word "diaper" is not appreciated. That cummerbund is so terrible that I doubt you'd be able to get basic with it, and definitely not Lancer. Looking forward to the updates.

You can't put a price on your health and if you think the armor is too heavy then don't do it. ABS is a lot lighter and the extra shipping cost may be worth the pain you will be spared. I have lower back pain too (two herniated discs) so I understand! Trooping can be tiring even under the best conditions so don't make it worse if you don't have to! Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk