01Hawk

Not sure if you are looking to get approved ( which is fine if you aren't ) but I don't think the rivets in the belt will pass. You can glue the pieces with E6000 and it will hold

And I also will be about to put Fett armor onto my flak vest haha. Not sure which method I will pick as well.

I have tried Velcro that says it is peel and stick to fabric with mixed results. I wouldn't use it on my shoulders back had success with it on my pant leg to keep my boot close to my leg with the gun in the holster.

They never got back to me which sucks cause the guy seemed pretty legit. I made a mold of a sole and and working on making at least a replacement heel right now. I have to put that on hold while I try get my scout actually approved, work on my Fett and get these other pistols that I make ready for sale since I have a ton of $ invested in it. I have a post with the pics of what I am making a few posts down. If I can get the heel or full sole attached safely so no one sues me I will gladly make them available

That ad is From CB. You can learn all about him in the vendor problem posting. He is the only one in there. I think MLCs come primered and may take you a bit of time to get one.

If that isn't being sold by Cucblack those images are stolen. Reverse image search of the first picture ( the one with 4 helmets in it) goes back to ads posted in forums by CB years ago. They don't look like the same helmets in each group of photos and I never saw him make one that was seamed in a place like that

The first set of pics with 4 helmets shown are Cucblack ( CB) pieces. I don't know what the ones with the weird seams behind the ears are from. I don't think CB ( even with all his issues) would make a helmet like that . Where did you find it listed for sale?

That would be a good boot to try it on. The heel is close to my Timberlands but a bit taller. I would have to play around with the fit /angle. I may grab a pair of Kmart/target boots to play with since the soles would have to be painted anyway. I can cast the heel in tan - would have to play with the brown/yellow/white tints a few times but it can be done. The natural color for the material I am using is a custard color so it isn't like black would be showing through.

After putting some screws into the heel I made, I am confident that , coupled with a certain glue , I could put 4 screws ( flat head ) with washers thru the bottom of the boot and hold a replacement heel in place. I would first cut the existing heel off flush with the rubber that makes up the arch of the boot. Inside the boot I am going to put a thin metal plate to keep the screws from coming up into my foot of this fails. On top of that I will put insoles in the boots for comfort.

I think what the rivet /Velcro method meant was to put the rivets thru the holster while not attached to the boot so in essence they are just decorative. After they were installed then Velcro the holster to the side of the boot?

I am 5'11 and 205 .. I wear SC and it fits well and the color match to my Altmanns helmet is good also. I find I have a longer torso and will need to make bigger pouches to fill the area between my belt and lower edge of my armor. My pouches are from CB as well as my Suit and bund and they look pretty small unfortunately. A lot of how stuff fits/looks is how well it ties together with your other parts. A lot of it can be tweaked and adjusted to fit your frame specifically.

I don't think dremels work out too well as they just gum up and make a mess/not clean lines

Made a quick " cap " type piece to wrap around the heel. I would need to thin out the back a bit to get it around my boot heel ( timberlands). Or I could notch the heel of my boots. I really like the idea of making a full heel for them but am not sure if it can be safely done. Next thought is to buy boots at the Goodwill store, cut the heel of and epoxy and maybe even sheet metal screw my replacement heel on and take a walk. May never work but was worth a try I think. Lower right corner is a full heel.

If you do rivet it , the dog bone should cover it. I just glued mine.

I didn't rivet my boots and they have held up pretty well.

Chef and lone wolf ( although I have never see on in person ) are great helmets. I have an Altmanns and an SC. I wouldn't buy a KS due to their horrible customer service ( based on posts here) but some people love them. I started with an SC and think it is a nice helmet. I wear my Altmanns now and have no plans on changing it - sturdy build, nice details and the service was great. As far as armor - I have SC - Nice product and good buying experience. Jeff cares about the community and stands by his product unlike some of the other vendors.

I would use aluminum rivets vs the steel ones.

I've never used clothing rivets so I don't know what they look like installed. I googled images for them and they look like the end up capped ( not a hole left in the middle like a pop rivet). The correct rivets would be a pop rivet and you can get them ( and the washers) at a hardware store or Lowes/Home Depot in a kit with the rivet gun.

While I would never buy a KS helmet or armor , they obviously are a name in the Scout world. Why do you think they continue turning out poor products like they do? Do they just not care? It would seem easy enough to make the changes to their product ( and customer service ) and put out something that people would love. Scouts are relatively small customer base but still..

Are they clothing rivets you have pictured? For the rivets in the belt /holster you prob want to use these type ( I have never used or looked at clothing rivets tho)

I made the horizontal line with some clay real fast. If/when I make a new mold to make an actual part I will do a better job sculpting the line to the correct width/height. Turned out pretty nice for something I did in 20 minutes

How did you do the details in the dog bone? I think yours looks great and it is the last part I need to do.

In my mind if I was able to cast a skin to go around the existing boot heel with maybe metal powder in it ( if they make such a thing - or even a thin magnetic plate) I could drill rare earth magnets and epoxy them into the sole of a regular boot and then put the cast sole skin on it. The material I am casting in is semi flexible and very durable. Maybe it will work , maybe it won't. I don't see why it wouldn't if it is slightly above the bottom of the real sole - unless a rock wedged in it or something and ripped it off. The Task 16 is durable enough that I could make a complete heel cap as well I think.

Decided to just try the heel first and a thin section of a front sole.

I should have put more work into this since Moldstar isn't cheap. Made somewhat of a mold of the sole. Had to change plans halfway thru when I ran out of material - initially I had the sole elevated using a small cup. I didn't have enough material left so I pulled the cup out halfway thru my pour and set the boot back down. This resulted in air pockets and a spot that is torn thru in the base. I will fix that with clay or tape or something. I am going to cast a full sole out of Task 16 from smoothon just to see how it goes. Then my real goal is to try and section off the heel and make a wall around it to make a kind of thin skin of just the ribbed area. With that piece of I can attach it to my boot heel with super glue /magnets/ magic maybe I will have replica soles. Or maybe I just wasted $100 in mold/casting material ... Who knows. Will pour one today and see what happens.