Stroker

Looking forward to it without a doubt!

From what I can see it looks great. The resolution could be better. Only thing I can see now is butt flap looks a tad long. Love seeing your work!

Looks great. Just try and keep the edges square.

Not that I can find right off the bat. It's optional for Lancer at this point. If you don't really wanna add it you don't have to. Don't feel pressured to add it.

Welcome Hilary! Helmet looks good! I personally like the chin cup. Now I'm have had it pop me in the teeth a few times. Anything you wanna ask we're happy to answer!

This is my opinion,others may disagree. If your ordering a weathered scout the helmet and armor will match pretty well spot on. The weathering will knock some of the shine off the armor in turn it'll match the helmet.

Your 100% correct. However the blaster is not needed for basic approval.

Here's a quick picture of how most of use actually do it. I have better detailed pictures,but I'm at work right now. Look through the Lancer apps. Theres some very good info in those apps.

I've used e6000 and believe it or not shoe goo to glue clear plastic. Either one will hold great. That's just what I tend to use. Now I'm sure someone else will chime in with some more options.

Looking good! It won't hurt anything if a little bit of the laces are showing.

Eliot we've been over your app and this is what we've found. It may seem like a lot,but don't let it overwhelm you. If you have any questions what so ever please shoot em my way @Stroker. Helmet Looks good. The pop shot weathering needs to be knocked back. Super fine steel wool will get the job done without harming the underlying paint. Flight Suit The thigh straps are not attached evenly. The front straps looks to be attached 1" higher than the back. It's throwing the way the straps set on your thighs off. The butt flap also has a seam running the entire edge all the way around. The flap needs to a single piece of actual suede meaning it shouldn't have any visible seam at all. Shoulder Armor Left shoulder needs to be brought in a little to match the right. Vest We would like to see a picture of the Velcro closure on the back of the vest along with a measurement. Chest/Back Armor It appears the chest and back connection is nylon? If so it needs to be swapped out to cotton. I'd knock some of the weathering back a little also. Back Armor The tank topper will need the hole filled in with a epoxy filler or something similar and then the white circle painted on top of the filled area. The screen used toppers had the white circle painted on. The rivet on the bottom of the tank needs to be silver not white. Cummerbund Pouch flaps look a little long? They look to be a 1\2 longer than they should. They should not pass the bottom of the pouch. Bund looks to like it's dropping on the right side. You can use some Velcro to help hold it in place. Also the bund is not fully closed in the back it could possibly be causing the dropping problem. I'd have someone help me for the next round of pictures. Belt and Detonator Drop boxes are setting to far forward they need to be brought back and leveled out. The boxes need to set no more than 1" from the bottom of the belt. Belt clips will need to also be repositioned once you get the boxes corrected. Also is that elastic you used on the drop box strapping? We can't tell if it's cotton or elastic. Ideally you want the cotton webbing from the bottom of the chest and back closure to match the drop box strapping. Knee Armor Lower strap is 1" it needs to be changed out to 3\4" or 1\2" Boots You did some great work carving the sole out! However the sole needs to be painted a matching wheat color. We don't accept the two tone sole for Lancer. It has to be a solid wheat color. A local hobby store will have wheat color paint or something super close. Blaster Gonna need some pictures of your blaster. Definitely need pictures of the front and back of it along with a picture of it in the holster. Please have it holstered when you take the next round of pictures. Like I said don't let it overwhelm you. Also have some help you dress out next time and spot you for the next round of pictures. If you need any help at all just reach out.

Eliot thanks for the app. The team and I will go over it in the coming days. Please be patient with us as we are working on two other Lancer apps. Also the election put a hold on some stuff as well. We'll get back to you soon.

You read it correctly. Yes it has to be 2" for level 2. Just take a file or a Dremel and make the slot big enough to accept the 2" elastic.

Amazing work as always!

A light gray. There's a bunch of different brands you could use. It's up to you. I used a cheap primer on mine.

Most of us built it ourselves. Not that hard at all. Here's a link with the parts needed and a how to. Here's a couple of pictures of mine.

That's the new version. The screen used boxes were made with a contour.

It's close,but it's just as mc just a little smaller. Like I said you can make them as the movie bits by following pandateoopers build thread. Same can be done to the mc's bits.

The square part isn't thick enough and it's slightly over sized compared to the RS and CFO\Strider. You can actually take a SC set and put a little work into and have a accurate bit. Pandatrooper did it in his build thread.

RS and CFO/Strider have the movie accurate ones. However I don't know if they would sell them just as a stand alone.

Indeed.

Where did this Strider come from? 🤣🤣🤣 Nothing but love bro!

It's a store for everything that's trooper related. I used the snout decal to cut the rectangle from. Here's a link.https://trooperbay.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Biker+scout

I used a trooperbay decal sheet I had laying around. I just cut the rectangle out of the extra gray area of the sheet.

I agree drop boxes are to low and uneven. Holster needs 4 silver pop rivets. Your also missing the 12mm/1/2" elastic on the top of the knees. To give us a better idea on the fitment of the whole costume you really need to suit and take some pictures.