Chunk

All you need is a cheap one from Walmart. You don't need to spend more than $100. All you want is a basic, nothing special & deffinately not with all the buttons & electronic displays. Mine was under $80 & I've been sewing with it for over 7yrs. I've made countless costumes for myself & my family & several Pathfinders here. I've sewed cloth, velcro & leather with it. just need to use a HEAVY DUTY sewing needle. So head on down to your local Walmart or discount store & get a basic sewing machine.

Not sure about the decals. But wanna say my fish hook was a press & rub. For the snout i cut a piece of flat plastic & made a backing, then glued the snout on.

Hey Bender is here! If you need sny help ask away.

I used to make the riding suits here, standard & Lancer. You will want to sew the "open" pocket closed. This is meant to allow your hands access to your under clothing as these are coverall. You can leave the regular pockat as is. It will not show & come in handy if you need to stash some change, cell phone, keys...ect

Same as the lower section. Just have to be extra careful. You will need to make several cuts & then pick out the "hairs" with tweasers. It will be kind of messy looking, but hardly noticable when your wearing your boots. Just take your time, took me almost 4hrs to do my boots. The 1st boot took me 2hrs to draw the lines & cut out. By the time I got to the second boot I was able to cut the larger section out with two swipes. Bare in mind this is not counting the cuts I made on the lines. I used a new exacto knife from the .99 store, so nothing special. After you mark all your outlines or cutlines, use your pencil & color all the sections you want to remove. This will help in NOT accidently cuttiong out your heel verticle strips.

1 sq yard will be plenty

Go to Walmart & buy acrylic craft paint. It will be in their craft section next to the sewing section. It will come in a little plastic bottle (I think 2oz) It cost .88. This will flex with the movment of your walking. I used it to paint my soles. It has not chipped or cracked. Big plus is they have sevral colors of browns so you can choose to your liking. I went with a carmel color.

Ebay! I've bought large chunks of suede from $9-$29 Each piece is good for for about 2 ridingsuits

Is it cracked in half or beguining to crack? If its the later you can repair with a fiberglass kit. I bought mine at Walmart fir $15. It includes everything needed to repair small holes & cracks. It can be found in the automotive section in the locked glass case.

Stay away from any Star Fortress products. He will go under differnet names, but will use the same pictures to sell his wares. PM me if you want further info on this guy.

After I cut mine I used some of that plastic mesh screen that is used for crochet & veil material over. I cut a lil larger than the opening, wrapped the veil over about 3x & sewed to keep together. I then used epoxy to glue in place. Looks great & allows air in. Total cost under $3

You can use a HD needle made for cavas. Nothing special, they come in packs of 10 for under $2. Just go slow. Dependeds on ur guage of suede though. The thinner the better. 2-3 guage is best. With the 3 i tend to break 1-2 needes, but can get the job done with a cheap sewing maching from Walmart.

Ohh to have my Chevy Tahoe back. Man fullsize SUVs are great when trooping. We took the wife's 50gl tub, my 45gl tub two 10gl tubs & our luggage to Comic Con one year. We downsized when gas was getting expensive. Smaller SUV. Now if 3 of us are trooping it gets tricky. Local, no prob. Wife follows my daughter & I in her suv with all gea. Out of town,another story. Ok what can we take out of tub & sit on top of the other tubs? this normally means folding one seat down, one tub pushed up against the driver seat, two more tubs in the smaller cargo space with weapons in between the tubs & stuff on top & daugter squished up against a tub. What we do for our hobby. Smiles on kids faces make it all worth it. Sorry if I hijacked this, but it's kinda relavant

If you pack carfully you can fit everything into a 24gl tub. I have a Husky 24gl, exactly the same as the Stanley, but diffrent name plate. All scout pieces will fit including the helmet & boots with the utility tray in place. The trick is you have to gently test close the lid. Makeing sure the shoulder straps are not sticking up too high. I've done this for WonderCon this year. But the down side is it is hit & miss with getting the straps in the right posistion as to not break them. Normally takes about 3 trys. I normally pack everything in there except the helmet. if Im limited for space I will do the "everything in the tub". I know you probably dont have a Walmart or Lowes where your at but perhaps you can find a supplier where your at. but both have a plastic Centrex 45gl roller tub. the ld is fully removable & it is super lite! It's long & narrow & fits perfect in a back seat. I use this for my tie Pilot. Best thing it was under $30 http://www.lowes.com...r%7C1=

I see your here in California. 1st thing head on down to Walmart(cheapest) or hobby store for some E6000 Glue & plastic spring clamps. Use a rotary tool to remove all the excess plastic, eye hole, around front of visor...ect Test fit the faceplate to the visor, when your happy with the location, mark with a pencil. Place E6000 anywhere the faceplate meets the visor. Sides & top & clamp. Let set 24hrs at least. Now do the same with the dome & the lower helmet. test fit, mark & glue. You will probably end up with a slight gap where the helmet meets the dome. Take some white bathroom caulking & apply a thin film. Whipe off excess with a damp paper towl. Again let set overnight. With a cutting disc cut out the shape of your lens. Now take a heat gun on low & work it all over both side, continusly moving. The plexiglass will warm & start to bend. Now its ready, while still flexable place on the inside of the faceplace & gently push down to mold to to the proper cure of your faceplate. If not right warm again & redo. Set visor aside, you will install this after painting. Now line up your faceplate/visor & helmet, Once satisfied with location, mark your bot hole & drill. Use your rotary tool to remove soe more off the visor curve to lift the faceplate correctly. For some reason when you install the faceplate with the bolts it smooshes the helmet together & the visor wont lift. Use extra fine sandpaper & gentle same all pieces. Wash with water & wipe dry. Use your favorite primer & apply 4-6 coats. Next use gloss white paint again 4-6 coats should do it. Now use wet/dry 2000 sandpaper & sand entire thing. I made two lil bridges for my lens about 3/4" in length. I glued them to the back of the visor on each side of the eye hole. This way my lens had something to sit on. I placed a drop of E6000 on each bridge & set my lens on it. Now you will want to test lifting the visor. Once it's complete use your favorite liquid car wax to add a nice shine.

Not sure what rivet everyone is talking about. My KS was received in kit form & came with a screw with "bolt covers/disc. But what ever is there has to be removed to use the 3M plastic bolt. The plastic bolt & nut will replace all existing bolt/rivets. Drill a hole a lil larger than the 3M bolt in the visor. Place visor on the helmet where it is to sit. Mark & drill same size hole in helmet. Place plastic bolt in visor hole so the square butts up again the plastic, now trace with a pencil the square. Drill a bigger hole, but smaller than the square. take a hobby file & file away the reamaining plastic to make the square hole. Take your time & do it slow. Test fit the bolt after a few strokes. It should fit snug. Do both sides, then place the visor on the helmet & attach the 3M bolts & secure with the plastic nut.

Just sand it all off with extra fine sandpaper, repaint & then samd with wet/dry 2000 sandpaper, apply liquid car wax if you want the shine back.

In the pic Chef posted, the straps at the rear are attached on the outside of the nylon belt. I attached mine on the underdisde. To me this looks more "clean" You have plenty of spare plastic from your pic if you trip off those holes. You can even make a nylon belt the entire length. Secure with some velcro to the backside of the plastic belt to keep hidden. This way your really wearing a belt & it supports all weight. Not just a few inches on the ends. Mine is done this way on both my Biker Scout & Snow Scout. For the 1.5" theigh boxes. Use one continues strap. Weave it through the front plastic belt so it looks like catfish whiskers, now place you buckle(both ends snapped together) faceing up in your left hand, with your right push the webbing down on the end that is closest to your plastic belt center, & up out the other end. This will give the look of seperate pieces of webbing. It's easier to adjust you hip boxes too. Let me now if you need pictures & I can post some later.

FYI, that is a stock photo. All kits come with the black bolts. no biggie, you'll just have to paint them. I gently sanded mine with extra fine sandpaper, primer & painted. I have two sets, one gray(biker scout) & one white(snow scout). Both are holding up well.

Hmmmm I've seem to remember seeing a scout in the desert.....

Funny how lighting can play tricks with colors. Cool helmet.

I always say movie costumes were meant to be seen not lived in. We have to have common sense. Costumes were made to be seen on screen for a few mins at a time & last a few days at most. Not be worn every weekend in troops, parades,...ect. Look at Peter Cushing's Grand Moff Tarkin, It's a known fact that he wore slippers or booties while fiming his scenes because the jack boots hurt his feet & only wore them in the full body shots. In Cpt America it shows Chris Evans running down the street barefoot through all kinds of debri. He wore special fake feet (shoes in essance) If you are to wear this version of the costume does that mean you run around barefoot all day because the charecter was meant to look like he was barfoot in the movei? Yes it's nice to look exactly like they did in the movies. But I'd rather have a costume that looks good & will last a long time. Not one or two times & I have to repair it over & over. The LW is a nice helmet, but again it's not available to everyone. SC, KS,CB are all nice helmets too & one can buy right now & have in hand in a few weeks. I can not comment on the SC as I do not have one. But I can comment on the 3 I do have, Don Post modified, KS, & CB. I have seen the eFx at the convention & it looks good too, but will probably never be made, & if it does come into production. The price is outrageous! Rumor is $600 US Dollars But the comment was "on the market" meaning available to us now. Rumor has it that LW will make a few more in the next coming weeks. This is great for those that are lucky enough to get 1 of the few. But for all our up & coming scouts its not fair to say LW is the best out there when it's not available to them. But we are getting off the subject here. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion & how accurate they want o make thier costume. So with that LW & CB are both great looking helmets & I would be happy to have either. So if you want feel free to send me a LW

I don't wanna hyjack this thread so I will start a new one in a couple days with my completed helmet & my process of painting.

To each his own. I myself prefer a more sturdy & hefty bucket to the ultra lite ones out there. Plus the LW is NOT available to everyone. Just recently did someone get one of his helmets after a long hiatus & word has come that he will make just a couple more. So possibly less than 10 will get this helmet. Where anyone can get a CB.

This is the best helmet out there. I should be finished with my CB this afternoon. I'll post pics when completed