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bwattsup

501st Legion (RET)
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Everything posted by bwattsup

  1. From that pic alone, I can't see exactly why. I'd suggest to keep pivoting and see what hits what as it closes. It might be that the bolts were mounted too far back, causing the back of the visor to touch the resting area. Are you using any Velcro to keep it snug? What kind of bucket is that?
  2. Can you take some pictures of the bottoms of the soles and the arch area as well? You've been generous enough as is. I hate asking for more.
  3. Sweeeeeeeet! I thought they had the little lip around the top, but you couldn't tell for sure previously.
  4. THANK YOU HOWARD!!!!!! You've done an amazing service to the community on this one. Love the Hi-Res shots. Is there anyway you can take a picture with the tape going from top to bottom on the front and back soles? I've got a great idea in mind for making soles. I'm going to PM you with some details.
  5. I'm pretty positive that was attempted long ago Thomas. If memory serves me correctly, they weren't able to find the original blueprints for those soles, and thus couldn't help out. I know I read a BSN discussion about it years ago.
  6. I finally finished the flightsuit today!!!!!! I totally understand the frustration associated with the riding patches now. That was by far the hardest thing to sew on this project. I think mine came out a little too big in the end, but they aren't coming off that suit again. Especially since I used Heat 'N Bond to hold them in place. The only sewing I have left on the project is velcro to hold everything in place. That can be done while I'm waiting on approval. I also have to finish off the pouch mounts. Can't believe I made it through all the sewing. I even got a "Wow!" form my mom tonight when I showed her all of the stuff I've been sewing lately. After removing the pockets I stitched the side slit pockets on both sides. I then made my collar. I also took the legs in about 2-1/2" around the bottom and didn't taper them much until I got close to the crotch. After aquiring the thinner suede from Tandy (thanks for pointing me in the right direction Todd), I remade my riding patches, and installed my elasic leg bands. The leg bands were tough to get them at the right height. I just kept measuring from the waistline and pinned the down around each leg until the patches were sewn in. I then stitched in a 12" x 12" mud flap. I may cut it down a little later. And since I didn't have anyone at home to help me take pics, I headed to my folks house, had some home cooking, and got them to take pics. I'll sort out the leg bunching issue later with a stich on both side seams. Squeeeeeeeeeeee!!!! I'm on the home stretch. Hopefully I'll finish up this week! :dancing-trooper:
  7. Upon finishing the pouches, I moved on to the cummerbund. I ended up making it using the seperate bund/cod 2-part combo. For the cod, I followed Terry's tutorial using ABS for the clam shell. I'm eventually going to make another one since I wasn't thrilled about how my material didn't lay completely flat against the upper portion of the cod. It actually looks a lot better when it's on and not laying flat on a table. The elastic that goes between the legs velcros between the rear center seam layers. Does anyone think I'll have a problem getting approval with this bund? If so please let me know. I can always make another cod now instead of being denied. Next up...the flak vest. I tried on an XL t-shirt over top of my coveralls to judge approximate size. I then laid out the dimensions I thought I need for a proper fitting vest. Since I made the pattern at work one night, I used some basic items (a roll of tape, the bottom of a trash can, etc...) to give me consistant curves around the neck and sleeves. After making the initial blueprint, I retraced them to make the front and back patterns. Then I doubled over paper for and made one side of the sleeve. After cutting the folded paper, I opened it up to complete the sleeve, Here's my completed vest. I'm actually not crazy about it, but I think it will pass for now. I made the neck opening too wide, and I think the sleeves should be more of a raglan style than the style I made. The sleeves may be a little too short around the armpit, but the length looked right when I tried the armor on and adjusted my shoulder bells. I kept cutting them back until it looked right to me. They started off much longer, and a little tighter around the bicep. Also, heres a pic of my armor in progress. The chest, back, shoulder bells, and t-straps are done. Since this picture was taken, I've applied the front decal, and shored up the underside of the chest/back connector. I haven't mounted my tank yet because I've got something different in mind for that. Biceps with t-bits: I'm almost done with my flightsuit. I just have to finish off the riding patches and mudflap. I should be done with them this week and will update tthis post again soon. Starting to get close to completion
  8. Whoops, I told you something wrong in that last post Howard. I went back and edited it. Sorry
  9. Can you adjust the stitch pattern so they'll be really short straight stitches? The shorter the stitch pattern, the less the machine is going to pull. Also, just barely press the pedal Howard, and stop and spin with the needle inserted and the presser foot up. Put it back down and move in the direction you set. Keep doing it over and over. Speed is the key here. Slooooooooooooooooooow!
  10. If it were me, I'd immediately start researching mold making. I'd also take some accurate measurements all around with a micrometer. Plus some general scans with a copier of the bottoms of the soles, both sides, and a ruler for scale on each shot.
  11. Nice find Howard! Is there any way you can make some scans/mold of the soles? I've got an idea in mind that I want to try after I finish my build. Where did you score those at?
  12. Thanks Nicholas! Glad you're enjoying my build thread. Once i got my Altmann's in from down under, my daughter and I played around with it and took some pics. Once the geeking out phase died down, I sat back and assessed what needed to be done to finish it off. The decals are a darker grey than the snout, so I put in an order for some trooperbay decals. I also thought the snout detail was a little messy. I ended up Frankensteining the Altmann's backplate with SC greeblies for crisper detail. The pics below show you the difference. Don't mind the primer color. I ended up re-coating it with a lighter gray, and also opened up the horizontal line on the backplate. I then removed the visor hinge bolts, and pondered how I was going to mount my 3M bolts. I ended up opening the holes on the visor/faceplate to allow the square portion to drop through. After putting it back together, I realized the headgear wasn't going to be able to mount directly to the bolts (like they can on welding helmets). I wrestled with how to mount it for a couple of days, and then came up with a solution. I taped the headgear inside and sanded off the paint on the corresponding mount areas. I then made brackets out of ABS plastic for both the inside and outside portions of the headgear. I riveted on snaps to both brackets, and also attached velcro to each. Once the brackets were complete, I cut out (6) 1"x2"x1/16" strips of styrene. I then glued them 3 high to make (2) 1"x2"x3/16" plates. The plate height now matches the depth of the top headgear strap. After positioning the headgear, I glued down both of the side snap brackets, and both of the top strap plates. The top strap plates are butted up to the strap on both sides preventing the headgear from moving back and forth. I then laid down hook velcro on both plates. I also doubled over a 7-1/2" piece of loop sew velcro, and sewed it together to make a 3-1/4" pad. This pad has a double purpose. It further secures the top strap, and also serves as a cushion for the top of your head. Once the headgear was completely secure, I moved on to the chin cup that comes with an Altmann's bucket. Since the inside front edges aren't as wide as a screen used bucket, I decided to use 3/4" elastic on the outside. The screen used bucket in the BSN gallery uses 1" elastic. I cut two 1/2" slits on both sides of the front sections. I folded over my 3/4" elastic about an inch and a half and sewed that. I then took the long section of that same elastic and folded it back to the center point of the sewn section. I sewed them together at this point making a "T" shape. After I determined the length I wanted, I cut them and sewed a section of 1" elastic between both t-straps. I attached some velcro to the chin cup for cushioning, and then fed my elastic through. I then pushed the 3/4" ends of the elastic through the top inside slits, down the outside, and then back through the bottom slits. The 1" elastic can't pull through the top slip easily, and the t-strap ends can't pull through the bottom easily. I think it makes for a pretty nice passive mounting system. Here's some pics of my completed bucket! Here's a before and after shot as well. It's a little hard to tell the color differences between the two, so I added a pic of the Altmann's back vent decal, in the trooperbay slot. Notice the size difference as well.
  13. When Spike sent my Altmann's out, it took less than a week once it was shipped. It took a couple of weeks to ship though since he came down with a flu bug right after I ordered.
  14. Thanks again Eric for help with my pouches! I made jpegs out of your powerpoint presentation so everyone could see your method.
  15. After my initial sewing lesson, I tackled something a little bit harder - the pouches. I decided to make mine 2 ply all the way around because I wanted them to retain the best shape possible. I followed Batninja's pouch thread which made it look easy. Unfortunately for me, it didn't work out that way. I couldn't figure out for the life of me how to get both the pouch and flap to flip around so no seams would show. It was either one or the other. I even cut a slit in the back of the flap and pulled it through to make everything right. Problem was, it looked like crap. After my first failed attempt, I thought about how I could make the flip for awhile. I was able to flip them properly by leaving the back seams open, but couldn't join the sides to the back unless I did it by hand. So I gave it a shot....and failed miserably again. Maybe with some more experience I could do it that way, but I'm too green in sewing methods. And then my luck changed! I happened to see Batninja pop up on the boards one day and sent him a request for some help. Eric was more than willing to help me through the process. He asked me to give him a little while and he would give me some instructions later that day. He pops back up a couple of hours later not only with help, but a full power point presentation that completely outlines the steps in detail. I was completely blown away! I can't thank you enough Eric for doing that. That was totally above and beyond! I made jpegs from that presentation, and lowered the contrast a little to make it more visible. Here's Batninja's Pouch Tutorial: Here's a pic of my completed pouches. Just have to figure out which way I'm going to attach them.
  16. Thanks Howard, and congrats on nearing completion. I used a 90 degree engraving cutter bit similar to this one: I cut my soles by plunging the bit to the backside of the cutting tip. I then used two hands to hold it steady, and proceeded to cut straight rows like a milling machine would. The only place it gets a little tricky is the toe and heel curves. For the corners, you simply tilt the dremel about 90 degrees (flat) and use the same bit. As for the stitches, yes I machine stitched those. I drew the curves I wanted on the back side of the material, and then slowly traced that arc with the machine. Take it really slow around the end corners. If you're having trouble with the curves do this: Stop with the needle inserted, lift the presser foot, spin the material towards your desired direction, drop the presser foot, and then continue sewing in the direction you set. It may not be the most professional of methods, but it will get you the end result. My mom also taught me to leave the top thread and bottom bobbin strings long at the start and finish of a stitch. This allows you to pull the top thread to the bottom with a hand needle so you can tie it off to the bobbin thread. That way your thread will not be able to unravel. It's probably overkill on the dog bones since they're glued down, but it's a good practice to keep in mind.
  17. Thanks Todd. That's about the weight I probably need for the riding patches. The other hide I purchased was more than twice that weight. I'm probably gonna make my mud flap out of the heavier weight suede.
  18. Thanks for the welcome Jim! I've got a couple of items I still need to source out for my build. If anyone can help me with these, I would greatly appreciate it. I'm looking for the following: 1) 45mm (1-3/4") elastic in natural. I've seen it in white, but would prefer to find some in natural color and not have to dye it. I read that's now the desired elastic/webbing width for the chest straps. 2) Thin black pig suede. I read about it recently, but not sure of the best place to buy thinner suede from. I have thicker suede that I attempted to use for the riding patch this weekend. It didn't work out so well. I couldn't even pin it. Now to my WIP. I started with my boots, and used E6000 drying periods to work on other things. Originally, I had another pair of base boots, but I found this pair one day on sale for $10. They actually have the exact same tread pattern as my other boots. Since I actually liked my original pair of boots better, I kept those for personal use. The only major differences between the 2 pairs were the type of leather, and the toe was softer on these. In order to prevent them from caving in during the toe stretching process, I stuffed them with newspaper. After laying out the sole pattern, I used my rotary tool as a router and cut the design. Before I started the vinyl process, I switched out my laces for flat ones, and used barrel locks. I then streched my toe vinyl and glued it down with E6000. I made a set of the toe clamps that Terry (Pandatrooper) originated in his build thread. I also used some clamps to pull the back edges in as well. It's not pictured here, but I of course put down the front half strips after the toe vinyl was dry. I cut out my calf extensions, and then took a sewing lesson from my mom on making the top hem line. I also made my dog bones and learned how to stich those as well. As some one who had never sewn before, I told my mom I only wanted help on this project as a birthday present in lieu of a physical present. This would be a much better gift to me than anything else. Ironically, the day she gave me pointers was the 4th of July. After I had finished the boot stiching, and attached my armor velcro to the elastic, she said "Take the sewing machine home and practice all you want." In other words - DO IT YOURSELF! Like a bird being kicked out of the nest, I had gained my sewing independence. I ended up gluing the back portions in instead of using the rivets. After I attached my dog bones, riveted the holster, and added a calf strap internally...my boots were complete.
  19. Hello everyone, I'm finally back to finish off my Scout! Some around the BSN may remember me from a couple of years ago when I started this project. Hi to all the old timers! For those that have come around since then, Greetings from Newport News, Virginia. Sorry it took so long to come back. Life dealt me some really draining blows over the course of two years. I'm still getting my butt kicked pretty hard right now, but I'm trying to fight my way out of it daily as life keeps pushing back. I'm hoping that by joining the Legion, and puttting smiles on children's faces, my karma will start to turn around again. I'm actually about 85% done with my build, but still have a couple of major things (and several minor details) left to wrap up. I took pictures along the way and will start to upload them shortly to show my progress. So here's a rundown of what I'm working with on this build. I recently picked up an Altmann's helmet (Thanks Spike! ) so I could get to approval quicker. I plan on tackling my SC mod again in the future once I have the general build complete. I just didn't want to invest more time in that one when I had so much work to do on the general costume. My gloves are Sith Armor gloves I obtained as they were ending their run on gloves. My pistol is a Sci Fire Hyperfirm. I'm using MC armor. I "only" waited six months to obtain my armor. I see that production delays have gotten even worse since then. The undersuit is a Red Kap like most. I wish I could find one that's soft like the type I use at work. Anyway, It's great to be back home. I just wanted to set up a placemarker tonight so I could rejoin the BSN community officially. I'll try to start updating this post soon to show you guys and gals where I'm at, and how I'm progressing.
  20. Where's your belt Christopher? Oh...there it is. (sorry, had a hard time seeing through the grainy pic) You need to pull that puppy way down until it covers the bottom edge of your cummerbund. Then you need to pull those drop boxes waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay up. I'd also make the pouches a little less padded.
  21. Congrats Chris!
  22. Looking good Justin.
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