bwattsup

The sweing is pretty easy for the basic parts Andrew. I had never sewn before and completed mine myself. The only part that's really tricky is the riding patches, and making a pattern for your vest. Both of those could be completed after the movie if you don't have time to finish it beforehand. Do you have access to a sewing machine? Also, have you made contact with your local garrison? You might be able to find some local assistance at an armor party, or someone close by willing to help show you the ropes.

Looking good. Glad to see those sharp "corners" gone on the lens. You shouldn't have a problem taking in the legs without the cummerbund. The cod won't pull everything up as much as you think. Just keep the elastic tension at minimum tightness. You don't want it giving you wedgies. lol

Like I said on the GT boards, looks great Carl!!! The belt placement looks much better now. Nice and balanced. MC armor kicks butt. Makes for a sharp looking scout. Can't wait to troop with you sometime on that side of Virginia. My sister lives in Roanoke.

Everything looks good to me Carl. About the only thing I'd change is the way the belt sits in the front. It fits perfectly in the back, But seems to drift upwards in the front. I'd pull it down slightly to help even out the space between the bottom of the cod, the chevron, and the belt. If you want to get nitpicky, it also looks like you could take off an 1" from the top of the cod (where it attaches to the cummerbund). I'm not sure if was made with permanent attachment, or not. I made mine with velcro attachment so I could remove it to use the restroom.

You can also sew Velcro tabs on both ends, and then but pieces of adhesive Velcro on the ABS. That way (say in case you lost weight) it wouldn't be so permanent.

I actually made the slits in mine like the screen used buckets. Here's some info from my WIP thread for you if you decide to go that route Justin: Since the inside front edges aren't as wide as a screen used bucket, I decided to use 3/4" elastic on the outside. The screen used bucket in the BSN gallery uses 1" elastic. I cut two 1/2" slits on both sides of the front sections. I folded over my 3/4" elastic about an inch and a half and sewed that. I then took the long section of that same elastic and folded it back to the center point of the sewn section. I sewed them together at this point making a "T" shape. After I determined the length I wanted, I cut them and sewed a section of 1" elastic between both t-straps. I attached some velcro to the chin cup for cushioning, and then fed my elastic through. I then pushed the 3/4" ends of the elastic through the top inside slits, down the outside, and then back through the bottom slits. The 1" elastic can't pull through the top slip easily, and the t-strap ends can't pull through the bottom easily.

I honestly think the biggest difference between the two is how they flare from the top. SC is more angular, while MC is more rounded like the curve of a shoulder.

Again, Sorry Patrick. Here's the Bells. Knees to come.

Congrats Tim.

Sorry I didn't get the pics taken last night. I've got 3 troops today. Should be able to tonight when I get back.

Alright. Will do.

I can take some measurements/pictures later this evening Patrick of my MC shoulder bells if no one beats me to it. I don't have SC armor to compare it to though.

It's right here on the forums, and the Legion website. I really suggest to look around here a little harder Jake. There is a plethora of information within the BSN. I'm really not trying to be hard on you, but the section labled "Costume Standards" would have been one of my first reads if I wanted to build a Scout that met the standards of the Legion. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showforum=35 http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TB_Scout_trooper

No problem Tristan. That's what were here for. Don't draw those lines exact. lol Lord knows I had a hard enough time drawing those on with a mouse. Remember to keep all "corners" rounded. No sharp angles on the lens cutout.

Exactly like Joe said, but you also need to round off the top "corners" as well. I posted this comparison picture in your lens thread, and I still don't sit any change from then. I just made another one with paint to help you see some of the changes that need to be made Tristan. The only one I didn't paint in is the the bottom rounded tips and the ears. Hope it helps.

Your boot height looks about right, but it's honestly best to have your knee armor on. The boot height is dependent upon that. As for the info, the pinned boot tutorial has a lot of the info in it. I can't pinpoint where the 3/8" or less is specifically. It justy comes from reading a ton on here, looking at lots of pictures, and having a feel for the costume. The one area on your picture that needs to change is the elastic height. It's gonna be too low, and probably too loose, where it is right now. the top of that elastic usually lines up about an 1-2" From the bottom of the crotch. It ideally sits midway of the riding patch.

It looks about the same on the backside, except it doesn't go as high, and it isn't as wide as the front. It's visible on the back, but not as much as on the front. I've got more pictures at home on my computer (at work right now), but you can find the same pictures if you put "riding patch" in the search box and then sift through some of the topics. Pretty much everything you're looking for, or will need in the future, is on the BSN. Research is the key on building a quality scout. I can try to upload some tomorrow for you. I too originally tried to use the template that's on the BSN for my riding patches. They just weren't big enough to be accurate. It's a good starting point, but not the end all be all.

I can't really see your patches at all. It's better to stand with your body facing forward. We're Scout Troopers...not WWE masked wrestling ninjas.

Here's a pic from a screen used costume. The riding patches come out pretty far on the front of your thigh. On the rear of the suit, they come out slightly less. Riding patches from a screen used suit:

I don't think it would. I'm only trying to make you aware of "the norm". The stitch is usually pretty close to the top. Approximately 3/8". Gives it a cleaner look.

Did you sew the 2 lines of stitching on both sides of each dogbone? It's really hard to tell from your pics. Also, you should sew a line of stitching around the top of the boots. It will help keep the area that's folded over in place. It will also prevent the top of your boots from having those crease indentations.

I thought they had everything in Texas!

You can also find the bolts and headgear at most welding supply shops.

Congrats Kevin!

Yeah, my MC kit came with those greeblies in 2013. When I finally got around to completing it, I had to order a new one from Donn Jarr.