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Griffin-X

501st Legion (In Memoriam)
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Everything posted by Griffin-X

  1. KS also has the shadow scout, but I'd go with SC. Also, Spec Ops is the home for the Shadow Scout.
  2. No worries, he's looking good. You're a great friend!
  3. Great job trooper! It should be an easy approval. Here are a few things to adjust for a better look: 1. Raise your belt boxes a tad - ultimately 1.5" to 2" from the belt (max). 2. Make sure your chin remains hidden; you can see it poking out (l and r shots). 3. Hide your suspender straps; they are visible from behind. 4. Adjust your bund (in the back); pull it up so it does not go past your belt. Also, the pouches - tidy them up a bit. 5. Flip that TD greeblie; it's upside down! http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TB_Scout_trooper-detonator
  4. It's works for me. And that pic is my helmet!
  5. I use Gorilla Glue for permanent bonds (armor, repairs, blasters, etc.) and e-6000 all other applications (greeblies, armor, helmets, etc.). This works for me.
  6. **A BSN member needs a minimum of 5 posts to view the Trade section**
  7. Yeah, great advice from Tim. Rustoleum and Krylon do not go well together. The solvent from Rustoleum will turn your Krylon painted item into mush. I use regular Krylon - only.
  8. Ha, I thought that was you! Welcome! As mentioned, hit up Jeff at SC. He'll hook you up nicely.
  9. Barry has guided you well. Great work overall Jim, a few minor adjustments and you'll be set. I've been going since my first troop Oct 2011. IT's addicting for sure! Enjoy the ride fellas...!
  10. Those will require some major modifications to be approved.
  11. It's a welders shield #5, which is what you want/need. I'm not sure who you're talking to but they are not correct. TB is good to go.
  12. All great options. Eric with UGP is stellar and I love his email newsletters. It's all up to what you want and need.
  13. Gotcha. If you line up the chest and back on your person, the gap is naturally that large due to your build. Would like to see a pic, maybe we can guide you. It could be that the kit was "pre-trimmed" or something. My SC kit had about 2" or plastic on the chest and 2" on the back. So I actually removed 4" from my SC kit. This is the stuff I used: http://store.jontay....ral_retail.aspx
  14. It all comes down to the "look and feel" of the join and overall costume. A scout with a 4-5" gap is going to look really odd, since the plastic should never have been cut back that much. In the pic above, the gap is 1.5-2" (top and bottom). I run a piece of cotton webbing on the underside with Velcro to "secure" them, and then use a "T" based cotton webbing piece to wrap and join the parts. Again, anything wider than say 2" will look weird. Similar technique with my SC shadow scout:
  15. What armor did you purchase? The SC armor has plenty of room for the join, even for bigger scouts. I had to cut at least 4" from my KS kit too. And, with that, I still have a 1.5" gap on mine. I may not be understanding your issue 100%. Do you have a pic?
  16. If you mean 4-5" between the chest front and back, that gap is TOO wide. It'll never pass. Ultimately, it should not be anymore than a 1.5" to 2" gap.
  17. The best place, imo, is www.jontay.com. They have a WIDE selection of cotton and nylon webbing at a great price.
  18. A review that includes the UGP blaster. You can read the whole thing here - > http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=10612&hl=&fromsearch=1 Here is a shot of the UGP next to a Sci-Fire (HFX). You can see it's a little smaller than the HFX.
  19. I have done a few of these and even reviewed one. They are solid and not too bad. Just watch out for resin bubbles.
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