4505Marcel

Just be carefull as some vynils are too grainy or too thick to get a nice tight stretch on the boot. I use Nautolex brand marine vynil, its the thinner un foamed stuff mate. Not too keen on the israeli boots personally I think they are too long and thin like converse pump shoes, I favour the hiking boot style when I do conversions

That detail around the toe is going to stick out like a sore thumb, and possibly will leave a void if you cant pull the vynil tight enough over it mate

Best voice amp by far is the Rom/fx

They also only want to have one stitch line around the top, they need to have two stitch lines on the dog bone trim, the dog bone could do with gluing better. as said the soles are not the right colour and shouldn't have the stitching around the sole. Id also say the toe coverings needed to be stretched more as they are quite loose, cant really see the point of painting the soles, just buy the right ones before work commences. Id say if they are offering these for sale, then they should really do their homework a little more sorry

In my books your either 501st cleared or Lancer/elite. Anything else would be just confusing.

And I guess it will go in the lancer app section also, to keep things tidy

You can do it two ways, the way I do it is have it sewn into the seam at the back and then have a popper in the cod to do it up. Or have it sewn into the cod and use Velcro at the rear. Personally I prefer the cod do up way as its far easier to dress yourself

Congrats on the clearance mate, I have up'd your account to 501st Pathfinder

Not bad at all mate, a few things pop out to me. The biceps wants to go up a fair bit, and the shoulder bridge covers could be a shade wider. Your chest grey stripe does seem long enough, but yeah a couple of fine scouts. You both look great

Mine are crucifix shaped. Basically I have a piece of Velcro on the end of the top part of the cross, this stick to the underside of both parts of the armour, I then wrap the fabric around where the cross part of the strap ahs 2 poppers on which connect the front and back. I then have about 10mm of black webbing sewn on the end of the cross which hangs down and I popper my shoulder bells to it

Welcome officially to the BSN mate

When I first made mine years ago, I read people adding velcro, putting in stiffeners ect. But I decided against it and Im still on my same set of boots and after 5 years they have not sagged at all. Youl get the creases to a certain extent, but thats just the nature of the beast. They have to crease where you feet bend ect as all foot wear does. But mine are only one layer thick marine grade vynil and havent had any major sagging issues. I would worry about over engineering your boots mate, they will be just fine

Expensive $52 ? Those look pretty cheap to me, although there was talk of Sitharmour offering them again aswell. So there are options which is good. I just hope troopers dont click your link and buy the boots a little further down the page as they are probably the least accurate ive seen, utter rubbish lol

That base boot will be just fine, the stitching once the trim is glued on cannot be seen. Infact the stitching gives something for the E6000 to bite on to.

Your bund rear closure wants to be 50mm (2") and you also want off white chest armour side straps if going the off white pouch route bud. Your boots do look overly wrinkled, what material did you use as I have never had an issue with mine? Also having a vest shouldn't effect you dressing your self, you just pull them on le a T shirt, of you mates is giving restrictive movement I'd say its either too small or poorly made. A clip on the belt is fine if I cannot be seen, I'd say more people do it that way than any other at present, folk are just now starting to change to Velcro and clips

When I make the boots the whole surface is covered in E6000 not just be edges

I dont think you want to idealize them, theres no point having an uber accurate sole only to have a non accurate top in my mind. As Chef says accurate sole and a reasonable boot top for us to cover just like they did in the film for the win

Nice work mate, lovin the new details

Where are we on this guys?

They look pretty sweet matey

Agreed my boots around 5 years also and no sign of failure??

I still wouldnt clear a boot constructed like that Terry. Really the only way is to follow to the letter the boot tutorial

Yes the scout bucket will be fine as it tends not to extend down so low and is alot narrower than a TK lidd. We have lots of shorter scouts, so you will be fine

Ive never heard of the dog bone sticthing being optional, heel cuts are optional. I guess if your GML is happy without the stitching then ultimately what he says goes for you. I personally would do it though mate

Not bad at all bro, the dog bones look a touch wide over the bridge. And cant see any trim stitches as Terry has has said, if youve forgotten your going to have a hell of a job tring to get those trims off again. The only other thing is you holster is too close to the dog bone trim, basically when you kneel down the holster is going to dig in badly and pull the boots apart. I usually say try and get a gap of around 30mm and that should eliminate that issue. But as far as I can see you have stretched the fabrib well prior to gluiong which is often overlooked, all in all a super job