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Everything posted by Heatshock
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Swamper status - what to accept as the more accurate
Heatshock replied to Heatshock's topic in Kashyyyk Trooper HQ
i like the suggestion. i also like the 41st Elite tag. although tbh, the grey patch was a hang over from mr bungles original build, based on very poor dvd shots, and other promo shots eg like ur above grumpy. if anything the grey ring patch should stay at basic requirements if at all. personally i am really liking the grey/tan/oatmeal suede riding patch on both basic and higher requirements as for the grey stripe on the clone CRLs, its actually based on a few screen caps of aotc grunts and high res 3d renders of specific clones. a lot of the other refs show em to be plain with that raised centre piece. pending blue ray pics i like light tan/off white for basic boots, white for the higher cert as based on 3d pics also i would like to echo Grumpy's suggestion: comments and suggestions are welcomed. lets refrain from talking down to people, insulting and baiting. nate -
same here, the MB version as a polyurethane rubber i scored my rubber with a scalpel and ca glued velcro onto em e6000 should work just as well. my mb straps took grey primer pretty good. painted than stuck on
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Swamper status - what to accept as the more accurate
Heatshock replied to Heatshock's topic in Kashyyyk Trooper HQ
Not bothered really mate. Level 2 or 3 cert is ok with me -
Swamper status - what to accept as the more accurate
Heatshock replied to Heatshock's topic in Kashyyyk Trooper HQ
Agreed. The reason to bring up the at at driver was to illustrate the problem really. 3d render is what the costume is supposed to look like. Just like the original atat helmet is grey. Now due to lighting, weathering etc the on screen details on the Kashyyyk look different, just as on screen atat looks white. Hope that makes sense -
Swamper status - what to accept as the more accurate
Heatshock replied to Heatshock's topic in Kashyyyk Trooper HQ
Well not most, ive only looked through clones, gm and kashyyyks. I looked up acd, as this has been another tslking point in my garrison. These however, are 2 good examples. I think there some controversy in the imperial officer crl, where the higher level item, boxes on the belt is based on very blurry images. The atat is a fine example of 'old world/ original trilogy' finding with the best translation to the cgi situation. The original prop is a completely different colour to the on-screen prop,the original prop colour having the higher certification than on-screen. The other clone crls I've been involved in, much better, sharper and just plain more ref pics are available. Also a lot of what we argue abt in the kashyyyk trooper is colour and pattern. All of which appears rather nuanced and interpretional. Also cos other detachments have done it doesn't mean we have to. But I am a firm believer that the same rules should apply equally to all. Plus this is really abt right or wrong really, I just like consistency -
Cummerbund - oh boy, here we go again
Heatshock replied to Heatshock's topic in Kashyyyk Trooper Reference Pictures
So far we have Single tone grey Double tone grey Tan Now do we want to include all 3, remove 1 or more? Any other interpretations? -
Swamper status - what to accept as the more accurate
Heatshock posted a topic in Kashyyyk Trooper HQ
Now as this has come up, I was looking fr consistency with other crls. Now I realise what the ukg considers more impt ie screen cap. But this is a 501st CRL we are working on. GM CRL - level 3 for the helmet includes 2 details only seen on 3d images and a non-screen cap AtAt driver CRL - level 2 for their helmet is light grey. That is the colour of the ACTUAL prop, not how it appears on screen. At the end of the day, it's all plastic and make beleve.. But a precedent has been set. What are we picking as the more accurate swamper version? -
Cummerbund - oh boy, here we go again
Heatshock replied to Heatshock's topic in Kashyyyk Trooper Reference Pictures
Well that's what we had at the time, hence the difficulty in making a decision at the time Not saying its right, just explaining the process. U actually acknowledge the very problem with this costume. inconsistent pics and blurry shots. It's also all colours and patterns that we made for the render, so discussions are at best individual interpretations. Not saying I'm right or u are wrong. I accept both interpretations,and Allan's. We will argue round in circles. What we need to decide is what do we want I the new CRL? That Pic u keep using tony also show the bicep greebs to be white and the bund to be tan ? The picture (although labeled as screen cap) has been discussed before on other threads, and no one has yet been able to replicate the detail on an actual screen cap. Of course the blue ray cap should sort this out. -
Its not a new.argument, it was always an argument. It was just the.consensus agreement made fir the discussions which began as.far back as 2009/2010 and only.concluding last year. you were not around then to participate in the discussions. So calling it wrong is a bit much. I accept u dont agree, which is fair enough. I also accept that there will be others who will.support. your view as there were.several people who did feel the same back then. The same goes for using the 3D renders. CRLs are a continuously evolving. Its like ur dark greebs and missing tank detail. Easily mistaken. Easily changed and no biggie. But hey, we are all here to learn and improve the costume. It's all good. IM not questioning the white colour, I am merely accepting that others may not agree. The 3d renders are white. I am happy to accept they don't look completely white on blurry screen grabs. We proposed the off white colour was.due to weathering and shadow. So we went w 3d render, cos it was how the costume.was.supposed to look like. Look at at drivers, basic crl says white helmet, but the higher certification says grey ie the way the actual appears in real life, not it's on screen.colour - http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TA_AT-AT_driver Also looking at the biker crl and wondering if we should take a page out of their book. The boot doesnt look completely white on screen. But it doesnt look completely tan either. What about accepting white (cos of 3d render) and light tan/off white/biege. (cos of screen grabs) Biker scout cell (scroll down to the cummerbund) - http://www.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TB_Scout_trooper
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All part of the process bud, it's all good.
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ok here becomes the nitty gritty of CGI analysis of screen grabs If you are saying the straps are youre defination of white - the boots look a little darker on the picture on the right ie green circle However, if you look at the pic on the left ie the red circle; then I'd say the back of the boot matches that of the straps ie white added to that - yes it may be lighting, but it still looks white on this pic from the back tbh - I am happy to accept what the community decides as a concensus like I said; we have argued this till the cows came home before. we came down on the side of dirty white. Or if you want tan - than a bleached tan. Cos neither pure white or pure tan is correct based on screen grabs. Of course only my opinion.
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Cummerbund - oh boy, here we go again
Heatshock replied to Heatshock's topic in Kashyyyk Trooper Reference Pictures
cheers DR and thanks to your pics - I still favour a 2-tone look, camo (recommended) and weathering (recommended) would still like to see BR piccies as well -
Also if we use that alleged screen grab, then the arm greebs should be white as well? Agreed someone with blue ray screen grabs would solve this
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yup, those would do in my book too as per the current CRL: Pouches are either cloth covered and painted with camo pattern or covered with multi-cam cloth.
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- its outlined in the Mr Bungle and My build threads mate - but a quick run through - you can weather in 2 ways - topical (ie base coat then add the silver) or layered (as the pic above) - from a distance, the 2 probably dont look that much different, and topical is less time consuming - for a layered method, you prime your armour, then paint on your chrome layer. - once thats dry, you apply masking fluid. there are actual products in model shops; and its usually a latex based fluid. Apply and let it dry. then you spray the next layer on. A cheaters method some cloners use is to use a viscus fluid like mustard. This doesnt have to completely dry, before you apply the next coat of colour. Once all paint is dry, you rub off the masking fluid/mustard. The paint actually lifts off more at the margins, giving you that extra uneveness, that looks very nice up close. You can apply in masking fluid in blotches, but then I streak it a bit too, to give it that scratched and scrapped look - lastly, and you DONT need to do this, but picked up this little trick from Fett painters, you can see that there is some dark outlines on the edges of my scratches, that is applied sparsely, but with a brush. Its dark grey. It not continuous and less is more for this effect. It makes the scratch 'pop' out
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our DL has a different opinion, but over on CT.net - any change in CRL has a 6 month grace period. I would contact ur local GML to see what he thinks my personal opinion - would be the current CRL should apply until 6 months from the new one being published. for the riding patch, it looks like we are heading down a oatmeal colour. And certainly if this is proven more accurate (as it does on both the 3D renders AND screen shots). But as yet, we have not consulted widely enough nor agreed a colour or texture outside of the 4 of us. But if this IS the correct colour and texture (personally I think so!) I will be changing mine again
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wow that looks pretty good is that how BC is recommending you put it together? My pics were the MB version of the armour. heres how mine looks from the side (base coat of paint is already on) - taking into account the differences in the tank shape, think its pretty good approximation!
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I think that is constantly the problem in CGI costumes 1st pic is is actually a picture from wookipaedia which is labelled screen captured. Its a picture that has been brought up before and argued over before. flavour of the type of arguments we used to have - http://forum.bikersc...?showtopic=6631 To date, I am not sure anyone has been able to reproduce the clarity of that picture from actual screen grabs. This may no longer be true with blue ray. If you look at the 1st 2 pics on post #1 - they are of the same scene. But the lighting is completely different, just use the sand to compare. with reference to the 3rd picture in post #1 - you say it "looks" white cos of lighting - well, so we agree that is how it looks like on screen right? so in summary: (1) for the tan argument - we have a picture which is labelled screen captured but looks obviously different from actual screen caps from the DVD (2) 1 picture from the screen caps which looks white from the back (3) multiple 3D renders which all look white I would agree DR "But if we are going to say white then I'd have to say an off white with hard weathering." the old concensus (putting practicality aside) - Body of the boot is white, heavy weathering highly recommended (weathering with black and mud as appropriate)
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no worries my brothers - I will get a sample, then if we all like it; happy to get it sent all here and have em shipped out we are, after all, an international bunch part of the reason Mr Bungle and I got on so well when we 1st started was precisely for that matter. we can sort it out man
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@ chilled - yep looking good. would like a side view though remember that the bikerchick set is based on pghfett molds - mikes sculpt was based on limited screen grabs, MB version is fatter and stouter - as per the later high res pics available. Bikerchick MB version screen grab @ bwatssup - the consistency I would recommend is more like peanut butter or toothpaste as mentioned earlier. I 'spoon' mine on with a ice cream stick. The moment the goo leaves the acetone it almost immediately starts to "skin" . USE GLOVES guys. Problem with pouring it in and using large volumes of the goo - remember the solvent ie acetone - will also soften your native plastic. No it does eat it like acid, but if you are using it at edges where thin plastic is, it can warp it.
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DR's KST WIP (Kashyyyk Scout Trooper)
Heatshock replied to Death Recon's topic in Kashyyyk Trooper HQ
nope - everyone is contrained to how much you can post up DR sent you reply its easy to host your pics on a free site like flickr - http://www.flickr.com/ photobucket - http://s119.beta.photobucket.com/ then link your pics to this site - hope that helps btw - there are many other such sites, but those 2 spring to mind -
best I could do was this pic I have in my back-up logs it was in a discussion from a while back
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*topic moved to more appropriate section* yeah this was established a while ago I can only find the answers to various queries - but defo 2-3 years ago and defo based on interrogation of the 3D renders Not a screen seen detail - there was a topic and discussion, it involved members who really arent active again will have to search for the topic - but the evidence was quite convincing
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rofl - if we can agree on this; I will buy some of this material and offer it up to my DPMs? what say we all?
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ok, I REALLY like that colour mate esp.ly since its not tan or grey!!!!!