Dart

I've cut some holes in my jumpsuit and vest and had some moisture-wicking sport cloth sewn in. Gives me a bit more breathing room. I also have a helmet fan behind my hollow snout. Other than that, I just deal. Take a break if it gets too hot and make sure that I'm hydrating all day before and after I troop.

It's the missing chip on the visor that pushes me over the edge. The weathering looks realistic, but it's a bit too much. If you're gonna weather a suit, use the movies as a guide. Even on Endor, the suits still looked white even with all that dirt on them.

I've got two big panels on the front of my jumpsuit cut out and a piece of sportcloth sewn in each hole. I've also done the same to the front of my flak vest so I have air passage all the way through. Makes life easier. I also have a fan in my helmet. Way back when, I got a hollow snout kit from MC, cut a hole in it and a corresponding hole in the snout of my helmet and put a squirrel fan behind that to blow air upwards. Works great.

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Welcome aboard, Kristy! Hope you find all the info you're looking for!

The armour is quite heavy-duty and hard wearing but it's also the least accurate and the largest/most disproportionate. Many folks like SC armour with a KS helmet. If you're not in a rush, MC armour is the most accurate currently available, but he's a good 8+ months wait time.

Probably written by someone who doesn't know what scouts actually do when on recce missions. If they're just observing, they're not going to be operating in large numbers (2-4 max) so it's foolish to take on a larger force. If a large, opposing force was spotted, they'd then call in the Stormtroopers to do the dirty work. As far as the "rarely saw combat" bit, they probably mean in an infantry capacity (that's what TK's are for). We're the original SpecOps of the original trilogy, much like the Republic Commandos. The scout hold out blaster's official name is the SoroSuub Q-2s5 MOA Holdout Blaster Pistol

Actually, the number is closer to 38mm (1.5"), but 40mm will also work.

The larger armour is definitely KS, but the details aren't so great. I can't verify this first hand, but I've heard that SC is a bit more versatile for the larger scouts.

The biggest problem with epoxy is that it dries hard. You're better off with E6000 as it's flexible and much more forgiving to work with, as stated above.

Same here. I wear glasses in my KS with no issues. Plenty of room and I have a 23.5"-24" brain pan.

You'll need to move the pouches out. They should be on either side of the ribs stitched into the 'bund. Also, you might wanna switch them around. The undersuit around the tops of the boots look a little baggy - you might consider sewing an elastic strap to make sure they stay tucked into the boots.

I had mine made from scratch. A little Filipino lady (who looked an awful lot like Yoda... seriously) copied another set of coveralls I had. Best advice: find a cheap pair of coveralls that fit. If you, or someone you know are decent at sewing, they should be able to figure out a pattern from it all. Worst comes to worse, you can rip the cheap coveralls apart and, *voila*, you have a pattern. BTW, most military flight suits are made of Nomex, a fire-retarding material. It doesn't dye well at all because it's made from mostly synthetic materials like Rayon. If you must dye fabric, 100% Cotton or 50/50 Poly/Cotton blend are your friends.

I'm not totally sure about that sizing. I know that I used 1/8" rivets for my boots and other parts. (1/8" referring to the hole size, not the outer edges of the rivet).

The best advice I can give you is to just get it cleared. Lancer status is just that - a little icon on a single message board. Get your build done to the 501st standard and if you feel like bumping it to a higher level, you can always do it later. If you feel like giving yourself a break from the build, do it. The scout is a deceptive costume in that it's more difficult than some think. Maybe you just need to recharge your batteries. We're not going anywhere and unless you sell your outfit, it's not going anywhere. If you want some advice, put it all on, take some photos and let us give you some feedback. At least you'll have someone outside your own head's opinion and maybe that'll help.

Yup, looks good.

You're probably fine with the first one. It looks reasonably close and, to be honest, I don't think anyone would even spot the difference.

What ^^he^^ said. You're looking for pop rivets, not the type you need a hammer to compress together.

YUSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!! So happy to hear they'll be doing a kit version! I have no doubt it'll be great and you'd better believe I'm gonna get one when I scratch the cash together (whatever the cost). *happy dance*

Also, be sure that your cummerbund doesn't go too low. The bottom edge should ideally sit at the top of your hip, right where your belt should also sit. Don't wanna have 'bund showing below the belt.

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If you need a bigger one, the MLC will be about the same size. Bigger means going to a KS or LW (if you can get one).

Same. I used a Tamiya primer. If you must paint it, go with a matte light grey.

I've got a nice, big swath of velcro on my shoulders (closer to the top). My only beef is that occasionally, if I move my arms higher, I hear the "ripping" sound of velcro. Next vest I make will not have velcro as I'm going to the strap method.

To echo what Patrik mentioned, be sure that the 'bund doesn't extend past the bottom of the belt. The best way I've figured to measure the 'bund is to sit down and measure from the top of the hip bone (ideally where the belt sits) and then taper it to fit you. If you already have your armour, assemble your belt and see where it sits on your hips when you sit. Just make sure that the back has the 2" velcro strip right in the middle and going straight up and down. It really doesn't need to be square but it does need to fit you and not look baggy or otherwise sloppy. Also, make sure you give some allowance for the batting as that can affect your measurements.