Dart

Congrats!

Thing is, there really isn't a lot of usable space in the back of the boxes. That's about the only reason I didn't do something similar to what you're proposing.

If the legs are really baggy, definitely get them taken in. They shouldn't be really snug, but should fit like a pair of regular pants (or jeans). The flap is typically the width of your waist and the length is typically from your waist to just about the bottom of your butt. Here's a basic template of the riding patch: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=10601&view=findpost&p=89693 The important thing to remember about this template is that it WILL need to be sized to fit you. The front edge of the riding patch should stop almost half way across the front of your thigh. As for the thigh elastics, they should be 2", and just regular, not the reinforced/heavy duty elastics.

Do you have a rough visual idea of what you'd like to attempt? To be honest, I just use my 2 pouches for anything. When you troop, you don't typically need to carry everything with you since your stuff is locked up in a secured area. I never carry my wallet or phone with me and the only thing in my left pouch is my Aker amp. To each their own, just make sure your solution doesn't impact the exterior of the hip box.

Heat guns can really deform the plastic a bit much. My suggestion would be to use hot/boiling water and then form it to your arm (towel between skin and plastic, naturally).

It's ok. Looks like they took inspiration from the Kenner scope but fixed the rest of it. Resin blasters are cool, but they can break easily. If you end up going this way, make sure your holster has a bit of padding in it (glue some thin white craft foam inside) to give it a bit of protection/help keep it from falling out easily.

Great job, Nigel! If I may offer one bit of advice: pull the cod up about 2" or so. It really shouldn't tuck under very much. Otherwise, you're lookin' great!

Just be sure that when you chop them down, you take some off the sides as well as the bottom, to keep the general proportions correct. But yes, it's a common thing to do.

Just have fun. As long as you're not going bankrupt, you're alright.

One thing that stands out is the extra material right above the boot. Some folks like to put elastic stirrups on the bottom of the leg opening so that there's no bunching. Otherwise, you look like you're well on your way.

Tea staining is really the best method to get the "Endor" look.

Those are the ones. I recognize the MSN#. A bit pricey (brand new, they used to run about $7 USD) but they're the ticket.

Your eyes are not deceiving you. If you look at all 3 movies, they made tons of the same greeblies but used them in all sorts of ways. For example, in ROTJ, the bit on the scout thermal det is also part of Ackbar's and other rebels rank bars. A smaller part of it is on the Y-Wing helmets (the bit where the mic comes out of). Same goes for the MPC Vader Tie Advanced wing bit (a.k.a. the top part of our T-bits); it's actually also found on the boots of Boussh.

Overall, it's good. Needs a few small tweaks: 1. pull those hip boxes up. Ideally, they should be no more than a couple of inches below the bottom edge of the belt. 2. pull those shoulder bells up. Give yourself a 2-3 finger width distance from the shoulder bell to the chest/back strap at the top. 3. once you've done #2, you can pull your biceps up a bit more.

The trick is trying to find a pair of boots that have a solid wheat-coloured sole and that are the right shape (bigger foot area, more-or-less similar in shape to the Sierra Sneakers).

The snow scouts pictured above are more clone than scout (only thing that isn't clone armour is the bucket).

I use a fan. I got a MonCal hollow snout, drilled it out and then drilled out the faceplate where it mounts. I stuck a ducted/squirrel fan there and it blows up towards my lens. It's not too noisy and it's great for when it's warm outside.

Another option that I use, is to hot glue some thin bits of white craft foam in the holster so that the blaster wedges itself in. I've had kids tug on it and not be able to get it out, and I don't have to modify the blaster at all.

Actually, you'd just need a longer zipper. A bit more to install, but worth it.

Hi Christina! Welcome to BS.N! My best suggestion is to be a sponge and read, read, read. Lots of good info here. If you have any questions, let us know! Also, if you're looking for information on the Canadian Garrison, feel free to message me.

Long sizes are generally a couple of inches longer in the torso. Beware of any company that calls this a "tall" size, because that's incorrect. Long should mean long torso, Tall should mean longer legs. I suffer from the same issue and finding coveralls that fit can be difficult.

From what I remember, Lancer requires that the flak vest and 'bund are separate pieces, but I don't think there's any issue with them being connected via velcro. Ditto for the suspenders, just make sure they're not showing at all.

To be honest, the Fett isn't *quite* as simple as you might think. As mentioned above, it's a "face character", so it's under even more intense scrutiny. Sintra parts might not cut it. Either way, I wish you the best of luck in your builds!

If you're making your own, you can try finding the base boot at Payless, Walmart, or anywhere else that you might find the work boots that fit. There aren't any options for ready-built boots up here.

To the belly-button is a good length, especially if it's stuck with Velcro to the 'bund.